Builds SAS 89 Mini--Triple cased Mashed Potato (1 Viewer)

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I'm not looking to change axles anytime soon but 80 axles would be an option. Keep in mind one of the main reasons for changing axles is to get a larger R&P size along with larger axles shafts birfields etc.

For those reasons, if I ever change axles I would either do tons or perhaps build a hybrid front axle that morphs a 9.5" R&P into an 80 front axle similar to what Hagan has done in years past.

Do you already run a high-pinion front? If not, doing an 80 front would cover all the areas you mentioned for strength.
Bigger shafts and bigger birfs, and if upgrading from LP to HP front diff, ~30% more strength there too.

Problem with doing any Toyota axle swap is that the money you spend getting it built is more than a 1-ton swap can be done, and the tons would likely have the same or better strength.
(Not that you all didn't already know that. Just saying it aloud for discussion purposes)

#1 factor that keeps me from doing the swap to 80 axles, which ultimately boils down again to money, is having to swap the crappy steering setup. Which of course means swapping to Hellfire or FROR knuckles for $1000 right out the gate.
 
Both of you guys need some 35s or 37s and just live with your mini axles :flipoff2:.
Not untrue!
Ted's not doing too bad IMO, but my rig needs to lose 1000#. But I'm not willing to cut any more on it.
 
Do you already run a high-pinion front? If not, doing an 80 front would cover all the areas you mentioned for strength.
Bigger shafts and bigger birfs, and if upgrading from LP to HP front diff, ~30% more strength there too.

Problem with doing any Toyota axle swap is that the money you spend getting it built is more than a 1-ton swap can be done, and the tons would likely have the same or better strength.
(Not that you all didn't already know that. Just saying it aloud for discussion purposes)

#1 factor that keeps me from doing the swap to 80 axles, which ultimately boils down again to money, is having to swap the crappy steering setup. Which of course means swapping to Hellfire or FROR knuckles for $1000 right out the gate.

Currently running v6 3.73 diffs F&R only b/c they are cheap and easy to find which, btw, was the primary goal of going trip cases. 4.10s was the original thought of course but good luck finding them cheap anymore.

Cost is one of the hurdles but only part of why ive not moved to tons, another is they are wiiiddddeee. I know these hurdles can be overcome but as of now i dont have areal good reason to. That said, if some parts magically revealed themselves id probably do it.

80 axles are a fine solution i suppose but id do tons before i went this route. Why spend the same or more money and get a subpar solution?

Both of you guys need some 35s or 37s and just live with your mini axles :flipoff2:.

Screw that, I am going to bolt on Ryan's 31s at our annual and see if i can do the rock garden though. should be fun. :banana:

Not untrue!
Ted's not doing too bad IMO, but my rig needs to lose 1000#. But I'm not willing to cut any more on it.

Where would you find 1k lbs to cut out? Aside from you huge skid plate we're not that different in weight.

I figure im around 5k pounds. I thinking about ditching my heavy ass front bumper in favor of tube just to drop a few lbs. Beyond that, there are a few places i can loose some weight but without going all out f-toy the options are fairly small.
 
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I can sympathize with there being no affordable option for front axle upgrades - I have a whole laundry list of improvements that really need to be made but just keep hobbling along with what I have (yes I know splurging on tires could have been spent on a 1350 rear shaft, links or going full hydro, or a Ruff Stuff front housing, slugs......etc. etc.).

Question is - I don't recollect you breaking anything that can't be swapped out quickly or affordably. I know the Florida mini-truck guys finally went to tons - but that's because they went to stickies. On normal ties (read - worn out 39"s) you mini-guys can, if you want to, bounce the damn tack and bounce up and over a lot of obstacles that aren't meant to be crawled.

So - knowing you like to crawl and not bounce, what are you going to change tire wise that makes you think you need axle upgrades?
 
Question is - I don't recollect you breaking anything that can't be swapped out quickly or affordably. I know the Florida mini-truck guys finally went to tons - but that's because they went to stickies. On normal ties (read - worn out 39"s) you mini-guys can, if you want to, bounce the damn tack and bounce up and over a lot of obstacles that aren't meant to be crawled.

So - knowing you like to crawl and not bounce, what are you going to change tire wise that makes you think you need axle upgrades?

Honestly, I have no intentions of doing much of anything different in the near future, we're just having a mental circle jerk right now!!

I do crawl, at least that is the goal. I try to stay far away from rock bouncing which is why I get away with running 39s without many major issues.

To continue the thought process though, going tons opens many doors such as, oh I dont know, maybe 42s????!! :meh: Yes, my tars are worn out but when dry they keep up very well. When wet, they absolutely suck but then again we dont wheel much in the rain so there.

Anyway, let the debate continue.
 
Installed 2 brand bump stops up front before Hawk Pride, they last 2 days before getting ripped off so looking for temp replacement before River Rock.

Longer term winter projects are getting planned out. Approach angle is hampered by that heavy ass front bumper and lower than desired front spring hanger, I keep hitting both. This mandates a bumper change in favor of tube and then push axle forward a few inches. Trick with the springs is how to move hanger forward and higher without getting rid of the leaf spring setup entirely. I know 3 or 4 link would be great but been kind of a down year so prefer budget mods for now.

good news is the new cage didn't flinch in the rollover at Hawk Pride. It basically stood almost upright and flopped pretty hard on the passenger side, not as hard as Moab but was still pretty damned violent. We basically pulled the plugs, sprayed down Tony's rig with oil and rocked on the rest of the night.
 
Have you thought about running a long shackle with the mount above or in front of the frame?

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Installed 2 brand bump stops up front before Hawk Pride, they last 2 days before getting ripped off so looking for temp replacement before River Rock.

Longer term winter projects are getting planned out. Approach angle is hampered by that heavy ass front bumper and lower than desired front spring hanger, I keep hitting both. This mandates a bumper change in favor of tube and then push axle forward a few inches. Trick with the springs is how to move hanger forward and higher without getting rid of the leaf spring setup entirely. I know 3 or 4 link would be great but been kind of a down year so prefer budget mods for now.

good news is the new cage didn't flinch in the rollover at Hawk Pride. It basically stood almost upright and flopped pretty hard on the passenger side, not as hard as Moab but was still pretty damned violent. We basically pulled the plugs, sprayed down Tony's rig with oil and rocked on the rest of the night.
Hey Ted, did you gave video of the flop?
 
developed an engine knock at the River Rock event last weekend so dropped the oil pan, pulled the first rod bearing cap off and found what I hope is the culprit.

Fortunately they had not spun and the crank shaft looks perfect so crossing fingers I dodged a bullet on this one. So, just ordered a compete replacement bearing set but not confident about them arriving this week. :bang:

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Good you caught it early.
 
Those things look fine. Toss em back in and come up to windrock
 
Nothing a new flap disc can't clean up and smooth out for a nice mirror polish. Will 'look' good as new.
 
I'll carry them around as spares cuz one of you guys will use em before too long. :moon:
 
Maybe you can use them as repair gussets for your next cab & cage destruction.
 
Hell of a good deal here:
(5) brand new 40x13.50r17 Super Swamper TSL SXII (Part# SX2-15) for $1500 in one of my FB groups. ~$2000-$2200 is new cost.
They are currently on the South Carolina coast but are being moved to southern Louisiana in a few weeks and can be dropped off along the way (according the seller).
 
time to start the 2018 Sand Hollow/Moab repair/replace list, kind of my "white board" of sh!t to get done.

  • Install rear round drivehsaft
  • gotta do something about wheels/tires. This could be anywhere from a complete tear down of current setup to a total 17" replacement.
  • might rework the rear tube a little for better mounting of CO2 tank and spare tire.
  • even though I just rebuilt the front axle with all new seals the drivers side is already leaking so gotta redo (again)
  • think the drive-line is in good shape but might go ahead and replace all driveshaft u-Joints just out of precaution.
  • build new tube front bumper in effort to start shedding a few pounds.
  • replace pass side brake rotor
  • ??
 
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