edit: This Is NOT normal!? Front diff issues (1 Viewer)

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You can't drive it as-is. What's the difference?
I pulled the bearing plates and prop shaft and engaged CDL so I could make my 5 mile commute in the "hurricane." It makes sense now that I actually look at it that the axles must come out. In fairness to me, (not that it's warranted) I've clearly never done this before.
 
You don't necessarily have to do a full front end rebuild. You can pull the knuckles as full assemblies and remove the shafts that way, which is often how a shaft is replaced on the road or trailside.
 
You don't necessarily have to do a full front end rebuild. You can pull the knuckles as full assemblies and remove the shafts that way, which is often how a shaft is replaced on the road or trailside.
I did see a video where a guy did that on a pickup solid axle. I figure it's 27 years old and I don't think it's been gone through, so it's time. I have the telltale weepage of oil seal leakage on the wipers and the grease under the drive plates didn't look too fresh.
 
In order to temporarily drive this, you COULD pull the axles, the front DS, the front third member, put it all back together with a piece of wood covering the opening where the third member goes. Then install your spindles and wheel bearings, but put a plate inside the knucle ball to seal the back side of the spindle (may have to caulk it on), then you can install the drive plates enough to cover the wheel bearings. Then drive it with an empty front axle housing. Some folks have been known to buy their trucks in this condition (unknowingly....)

Another possibility is to buy a third from @arcteryx (cruiseryard) to send off for a rebuild, then do the rebuild when ALL your new parts arrive.

Or buy one that's NOT a factory E-Locker, but an ARB or Harrop e-locker and have that one added along with new R&P sent to Zuk. Then rebuild the complete housing later when it's all in.

Good Luck!
 
Given unknown history on 27yr old truck, full knuckle rebuild is a no brainer.

You need to pull the axles out to get the, third out. Quickest way is to pull hubs and spindles, pull the third, button spindles and hubs back up as is to keep it rolling while your third is repaired.
Cover the hole in the housing with a few wraps of cling film sandwich wrap, and some duct tape right around the housing, refit drive flanges and dust cap.

When your third is fixed, rebuild the knuckles and refit it all. Rebuild/refit should be doable in a weekend.
 
He already removed the front driveshaft and drive flanges. As long as he covers the exposed hubs, he should be good
 
I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm mistaken, but I think that in order to ease the reinsertion of the axleshafts, the differential must be locked prior to the removal of the shafts.
 
Ya, I'll be gutting everything this weekend, then hopefully reassemble the next. Then burning all of my landscaping the one after that.

Looking forward to reworking your front diff, slceso.
You could re-assemble it and drive it around til you get the rebuilt diff in the mail.

A couple good things to put in....
Service kit with the Marlin seals....best $59 you can spend FJ80 Knuckle Gasket & Seal Kit | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

Some people say those spindle bearings last damn near forever and I think they do....why not clean them with gas and repack them with a good grease....maybe even synthetic. :)
 
Looking forward to reworking your front diff, slceso.
You could re-assemble it and drive it around til you get the rebuilt diff in the mail.

A couple good things to put in....
Service kit with the Marlin seals....best $59 you can spend FJ80 Knuckle Gasket & Seal Kit | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

Some people say those spindle bearings last damn near forever and I think they do....why not clean them with gas and repack them with a good grease....maybe even synthetic. :)



Engage the front locker and the 3rd will slip right out of the axle housing easy. Then remove the e-motor assembly from the 3rd(super easy only 1 12mm bolt) elocker e-motor removal then box it up and send it my way.
 
You don't necessarily have to do a full front end rebuild. You can pull the knuckles as full assemblies and remove the shafts that way, which is often how a shaft is replaced on the road or trailside.
Sometimes called the "camo method" after the pirate4x4 member Camo
 
Looking forward to reworking your front diff, slceso.
You could re-assemble it and drive it around til you get the rebuilt diff in the mail.

A couple good things to put in....
Service kit with the Marlin seals....best $59 you can spend FJ80 Knuckle Gasket & Seal Kit | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

Some people say those spindle bearings last damn near forever and I think they do....why not clean them with gas and repack them with a good grease....maybe even synthetic. :)

I think there is a general opinion in the mud crowd that the Marlin ecoseal doesn't work so good for the 80 front axles and will usually leak sooner than an oem. I have no personal experience, but have seen it in various threads.

Anybody know if that's still the general opinion?
 
I think there is a general opinion in the mud crowd that the Marlin ecoseal doesn't work so good for the 80 front axles and will usually leak sooner than an oem. I have no personal experience, but have seen it in various threads.

Anybody know if that's still the general opinion?

Just go OEM, and post a video of your wife chewing your back side for doing the job yourself :worms::eek::eek:
 
I have tried several brands of seals. I just use the OEM ones now.
 
Just go OEM, and post a video of your wife chewing your back side for doing the job yourself :worms::eek::eek:

A dab of diff oil behind the ear drives the ladies wild!!
 
Rebuilding the front axle is not a terribly hard job but I would recommend a professional to set up the gears in the diff. Unless you have the tools and experience you will be spending more money on re doing pinion seals and crush sleeves.
If you are going to rebuild your axles you may as well replace all wheel bearings, trunion bearings, and poss upgrade the front brake calipers and rotors to the FZJ brakes. I live on a mountain and am satisfied with the stock gearing with 35s in my HDJ81. Most I would go would be the 4.56.
 
Sweet Jesus, what a mess!

One axle seal ok, the other must be compromised as evident by soup.

Additional casualty: Front left brake hose.

Today I also learned about banjo fittings and die crimped hose ends that look like swage fittings.

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But, back on topic..

THAR SHE BE!!!!

looks like the Ring and the Pinion are junked. Shipping out monday. Big thanks to @beno for fitting in my parts order for all of the unmentionables to rebuild this hoor.

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OK Kids!

Your attention please!

This is why you don't pull anything in REVERSE!

Sorry for your loss!
 

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