What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (29 Viewers)

[4Cruisers]

Success! Completed the FJ60 electronic ignition upgrade, radiator repair, and oil cooler installation on my '76 FJ40. I had disconnected the fuel lines for the project, so once the carburetor fuel bowl was filled after two 10- to 15-second crankings of the starter it fired right up. I need to check/adjust the distributor air gap and set the timing (for 7,240 feet, ~ 10* BTDC or so?). Second check of the oil level after replacing the oil filter, burp and top off the engine coolant (no more leaks - yet ), and add some gasoline to the fuel tank. If all seems well my wife and I'll take it for a spin down to Santa Fe to pick up my loot from the local Sears store closure (nice wire basket/shelf roll cart with sturdy lockable caster wheels for rolling around the garage and driveway when working on my Land Cruisers) and top it off with non-ethanol gasoline. Should be ready to roll for my next leg of the FJ40 Cross Country expedition with a briefcase hand-off to @Reznugget and the trip up to Colorado for the Solid Axle Summit and a meet-up with @POTATO LAUNCHER and others here on MUD. Photos to come.

 

[4Cruisers]

I ran the heater until it was blowing warm air and still no coolant leaks. I let it cool off a bit, removed the radiator cap slowly, and topped off the radiator.

I noticed a couple of oil leaks, one old and one fresh. The old drip was from the fittings for the mechanical oil pressure gauge at the engine block (I decided to keep that location even though I added the oil cooler), so I tightened those. The fresh, more significant oil leak appears to be coming from the new (to me) oil cooler, I believe it's from one of the plugs on the oil cooler bracket assembly. I've got the two bolts that attach the sheet metal rock shield soaking in PB Blaster, once I pull that I'll get a better look at where the leak is. That should be easy to fix. I did install new copper gaskets and O-rings where the oil cooler and bracket meet, so I don't think that's the issue.

 

[sterling]

Put the factory carb back on and ran it through its paces...flawless.
Washed the 40 for the first time since I applied IH red in rattlecans,oddly satisfying.

 

[4x4veteran]

Just finished installing a four row aluminum radiator. All that shine is going to take some getting used to after 43 years of looking at black.

 

[David70FJ40]

Started the process of refurbishing the fiberglass top. Sanded about 3/4 down to clear gelcoat so I could see the spider cracks easier. Oh Boy! There are tons of spider cracks! At this rate it will take a week or more of grinding with the Dremel to clean out all the cracks. I am beginning to wonder if it would be easier just to lay a layer of new fiberglass on top. Opinions?

EDIT: I believe a PO painted the top dark blue at one time and sanded down the original gelcoat. With the light sanding I did, the gelcoat is rather thin in places and looks to be thicker in others. And it looks as though it has been hit with a heavy weight with the fiberglass dented inwards and several spider cracks concentrated in that area.

 

[gator25]

Been waiting on a opening at the body shop, while I was waiting I rebuilt the knuckles. Seeing how I lost those pics. that doesn't count. Put the pretty black powder coated backing plates on along with all new wheel cyl. and shoes.

Got the shims squared away finally, everything painted up hope it works as good as it looks.

Set the preload a little heavy for the bigger tires, replaced all the bearings, wipers, hub seals and swapped in a set of Marlin axle seals. I even put some new tie rod end boots on.

When gets back I'll put on the new stainless brake lines in the front along with the U bolts and shocks. Chased all the shock bolt threads.

Check out these old drums, still have a lot of meat. Suckers are heavy.

 

[gator25]

Replaced the left axle and both sets of bearings and seals. Of course there's always gotta be one A$$ Hole in the crowd. For the folks that might not know. If you having a tuff time getting a bearing race or maybe a bushing in a big front end loader, take and weld a continuous bead on the inside of it. A lot of times they will almost fall out, but let it cool off before you mess with it..

I put some moly grease on them and the lip of the seal, gear oil would be what most folks would say to use. That's what I had at the time, don't think anyone is going to die so it'll probably be ok.

Put some new brake lines on, along with some new shocks. Man I like those brake lines. I guess those shocks will be ok like that, if you know different please tell me. I want those boots to drain, and the holes are on that end.

Pulled a diff vent off one of my old trucks use on her.

Cleaned it up and stuck it, I'll route it up high somewhere later.

 

[4Cruisers]

I ran the heater until it was blowing warm air and still no coolant leaks. I let it cool off a bit, removed the radiator cap slowly, and topped off the radiator.

I noticed a couple of oil leaks, one old and one fresh. The old drip was from the fittings for the mechanical oil pressure gauge at the engine block (I decided to keep that location even though I added the oil cooler), so I tightened those. The fresh, more significant oil leak appears to be coming from the new (to me) oil cooler, I believe it's from one of the plugs on the oil cooler bracket assembly. I've got the two bolts that attach the sheet metal rock shield soaking in PB Blaster, once I pull that I'll get a better look at where the leak is. That should be easy to fix. I did install new copper gaskets and O-rings where the oil cooler and bracket meet, so I don't think that's the issue.

It turns out the fresh oil leak was from the plug I added where the FJ60 oil pressure sender would normally be installed. I used an NPT to BSPT adapter and an NPT plug. I added some Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker to the threads of the adapter and tightened things up, but there's still a very tiny leak, it takes a few minutes with the oil at 50 psi+ to form one drop of oil. I ordered a couple of socket head brass BSPT 1/4" male pipe plugs from Grainger, one for the '76 FJ40 and one for the oil cooler kit I've assembled for my '71 FJ40, which also has a '76 2F. At least I'll cut the number of potential leaks at that location from two to one.

 

[4Cruisers]

I drove the '76 FJ40 back into the garage and out of the rain so I could reinstall the battery tray and battery and set the ignition timing. Given that the vehicle fired right up and idles great after installing the FJ60 distributor I'm hopeful that everything is aligned so I'll see the pointer in the timing window near the scribed line and/or BB on the flywheel with the timing light on the #1 plug wire. I'll set the timing at 10* BTDC due to the 7,240-foot elevation of the house. I'm glad I bought a decent advance timing light a while back.

Update: Setting the timing was a piece of cake, with the distributor set bolt at the center of the slot the pointer in the timing window (with 0* advance set on the timing light) was between the scribed line and the BB, closer to the BB. I set the timing light to 10* advance and rotated the distributor slightly to line the pointer up with the scribed line. Access to the set bolt was easy using a 12mm Craftsman ratcheting wrench. Timing took me all of 10 minutes, including gathering up the tools.

It's idling a litttle high so next step will be to set the idle mixture/speed using the lean drop method. Right now I'm getting a steady vacuum at idle of a little over 15 in-Hg, which is just about 20 in-Hg adjusted for altitude. So far so good. Looks like a spin out on the open road may happen before noon. Will also check the carburetor secondary operation using the paper clip test, which I've never done before.

 

[steffan]

getting the hood ready for some paint

 

[gator25]

Here's a few part numbers for the shock hardware.

and the washers

Almost forgot, everyone likes gear porn. Everything looked pretty good in there.

 

[bwalker16527]

Priming and sanding last coat before sealing and painting. A lot of work. Hope the paint job turns out great. Dune Beige, original color.

 

[Taha32]

Started welding in my passandgers floorpan.

Seems to be slow going at the moment, been 9 months since I started my rebuild.

 

[gator25]

Loaded her up and took her to town.

These folks are supposed to be one of the best shops in Shreveport, should have took some pics. of the 71 chevy p/u they just got done with. It was black and straight as glass, it looked a foot deep. The owner said she will look just as good if not better.

Can't wait to see it done!

 

[waiting for time]

Looking good Nolan, looking good.

 

[waiting for time]

Got some new toys, airpowered burnishing machine.

And engine stand.

 

[bwalker16527]

getting the hood ready for some paint

View attachment 1506598

View attachment 1506599

View attachment 1506600

Looks beautiful

 

[spazz]

Made bump stops

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Loaded her up and took her to town.View attachment 1506678 These folks are supposed to be one of the best shops in Shreveport, should have took some pics. of the 71 chevy p/u they just got done with. It was black and straight as glass, it looked a foot deep. The owner said she will look just as good if not better. View attachment 1506680
Can't wait to see it done!

Date night, Nolan?

I love the lipstick you put on her!!

 

[Solace in Solitude]

@thecrazygreek

I used this to desmog my '78--> layout for 78 2F desmog

@FJ40Jim may still sell a package, which includes plugs for the air rail ports, caps for the air cleaner ports and an idler pulley, to replace the air pump.