Builds A few mods from 7-25-06 (1 Viewer)

[Corey]

Trasheroo Installed 7-22-2017

Bought this years ago, but never got around to putting it on.
I have trued unsuccessfully for the past few weekends with no luck.
I know they say on the FJ Cruiser to cross the straps at the top of the tire, but I could not get it to work.
Plus I have two sets of Maxtrax on the Maxtrax hanger on my tire, and that takes up some room.

If you have a swingout spare tire carrier on your bumper, it is a lot easier to install from from I have read.
Also a woman I follow on Instagram who has an FJ Cruiser opened up her rear window to get to the straps.
Since I have a rear ladder, my window will not open far enough to try that trick.

The way the Trasheroo comes is the top and bottom straps are made to hook together, but what I did was take off the buckles and made it so the top straps would connect with each other, and same for the bottom.

And instead of going over the spare tire, I ran the buckles on the top through the big slots on the Maxtrax and connected them and took out as much slack as possible and reran the right strap through the Maxtrax again so it would be tight.

For the bottom two straps I ran the left side behind the Maxtrax, and the right side buckle through one of the Maxtrax slots again.
The bag is nice and tight, and it not going anywhere, unless a thief decides he wants it.

Stuffed some tall kitchen drawstring trash bags in the upper zippered flap, and according to their site, it can take a 30 gallon trash bag in the main compartment which I will pick up tomorrow during a grocery run.
That will keep the main compartment clean from liquids and other nasty trash.

Besides using this for trash accumulated during camping trips, it will be used for carrying a firewood bundle.

Links:

Trasheroo, Off Road Spare Tire Trash Bag

Specs

Pics:

Top straps run through the Maxtrax

Bottom straps ran behind the Maxtrax

Trasheroo ready for work

 

[BMThiker]

I highly recommend un-installing when not in active duty. I installed a green one just like yours in mid-June and just took it off this weekend. It has visibly faded after about 5 weeks of exposure. I don't think the fabric will hold up in direct UV for long.

 

[Corey]

I highly recommend un-installing when not in active duty. I installed a green one just like yours in mid-June and just took it off this weekend. It has visibly faded after about 5 weeks of exposure. I don't think the fabric will hold up in direct UV for long.

Thanks for the tip on the fading.
I wonder if the black ones hold up better.

 

[BMThiker]

I see plenty of black ones on trail rigs and they fade as well. I really wish they were made of a reinforced pvc (like mil spec tarps or drybags) instead of nylon/polyester fabric.

 

[Corey]

Odyssey 34R-PC1500 Extreme Battery Installed 7-28-2017

I was on my second Toyota battery, and it recently started to get weak.
The original Panasonic one from July of 2006 ran for seven years, and kept the ARB fridge going too on camping trips, as the fridge was not wired to the aux battery.
Now the second Toyota battery lasted around four years also running the old ARB fridge at times.

My new fridge, the National Luna Weekender 50 Fridge/Freezer is wired directly to the auxiliary battery, and I think that is was ended the Redtop that was in there, as that was also a starting battery.
The new fridge is doing much better on the Optima Yellowtop since it is a deep cycle one.

Back on topic...after mucho research of what Toyota owners were running for a starting battery, I went with the Odyssey 34R-PC1500 AGM.
The battery to get years back was the Sears Diehard Platinum, but that went by the wayside, and is no longer available.
The off-road shop I deal with the owner has a 4Runner, and he is running the same Odyssey they put in my rig today.

The Toyota battery was showing around 12.2v when the engine was off, while the new Optima was showing 12.9 to 13v at rest.
The new Odyssey is resting right now after the engine being off for two+ hours is 12.8v, and I am sure it will be better once it is fully charged up from driving more.
The only accessories that will be powered by it will be the two 12v outlets in the rear of the FJ, and the CB, so not really much of a drain on it.
And the winch is wired to the starting battery too.

Yes, it is a jungle under the hood with the two sets of ARB Intensity LED lights, the Rigid rock lights, the Blue Sea auxiliary fuse box in the passenger footwell side panel (it powers the CB and twin 12v outlets back in the stern), the wires for the solar charge controller for the Powerfilm 60 watt solar panel for the starting battery, and maybe a few other things such as the alarm, dual 12v gauge in the cab, etc.
Later in the near future the shop will be installing another Blue Sea box or if there is something better and wire it to the new battery, and then run most of the accessories off of it, thus clearing up so many wires going to the positive terminal now.
I thought about one of those Source controllers where all of your accessories switches are built into it, but I already have the light switches hard wired and mounted to the rig inside, and I want to keep it that way for now.
Once the new box gets installed, it will look a lot tidier under there for sure.

Links:

ODYSSEY Auto/LTV Battery Model 34R-PC1500T
(Group 34 with tin-plated brass SAE automotive posts - reversed terminals)

Auburn Car Repair & Offroad

Pics:

Closeup of the new battery

Showing both batteries, and yes Virginia, it is a mess on the new battery which will be rectified before too long.
In fact after I post this I am going to call up John the shop owner and ask which would be the best box to go with.

The Blue Sea auxiliary box mentioned earlier that is in my footwell kick panel

 

[crikeymike]

I put a Diehard platinum into one of the old company Jeeps. That thing was the best. It's a shame they were discontinued.

I've heard nothing but success stories too with Odyssey batteries before and since then too.

 

[Corey]

I put a Diehard platinum into one of the old company Jeeps. That thing was the best. It's a shame they were discontinued.

I've heard nothing but success stories too with Odyssey batteries before and since then too.

Saw this posted the other day by Oddyssey and also Off Grid Engineering.
This is how I want my wiring cleaned up with a Blue Sea box, and better terminals on the battery.

 

[Outer Limit Supply]

Outer Limit Supply Quick Release Bracket Installed 6-3-2017

I have had my Outer Limit Supply Weekend Warrior first aid kit for awhile now mounted to the Springtail Solutions table/rack setup on the back door of my FJ Cruiser.

This is a top notch kit designed by Travis owner of Outer Limit Supply.
The way the kit mounted before was a two strap setup, and his new mount he unveiled at Overland Expo West 2017 is a much better setup IMO, and so much easier than having to release the two straps.
The first aid kit could move around a little with the straps, not so with this new setup!
It is held in with magnets, and they will not release until you pull down a red straps.
You can mount the strap at the top or bottom, I chose the latter.

The included instructions and template you tape to the rear of your kit make the installation a breeze.
This is way faster to get to your kit if needed, and much more secure.
If you want to upgrade to the new setup, get a hold of Travis, I am very excited about the new kit for sure!

Links:

My first aid kit, Weekend Warrior Series

Quick Release Mount

Pictures and one video:
Please excuse me for not looking into the lens, I was looking at the LCD screen which I had flipped towards me on my Canon Rebel T5i camera.

Tape the included template to the rear of the kit to drill four holes for the quick release bracket
Make sure to empty your kit first, which Travis mentions in the instructions.

Push the four bolts with the flat washers and rubber washers through the holes

Then attach the QR bracket to the rear of the case, and tighten up with the included nuts for the bolts

Screw the mounting plate to the quick release bracket through the magents with the four counter sunk screws

Mounting plate and QR bracket
Skottle is feeling lonely not getting any attention until tonights dinner.

Bracket mounted to the rack/table

Plenty of room for the rack/table to be in the down position, and not have the kit interfere with the plastic surface of the FJ

Showing the old mounting plate above that used the two strap system, not sorry to see it go

You really do not see the red strap hanging down unless you look from underneath

See, the strap kind of disappears when you look at it from straight on

Outer Limit Supply Quick Release Bracket

Cory, thank you very much for such a detailed write up! We just launched a new website... If anyone gets a broken link, here’s the new address: Home

 

[Corey]

Cory, thank you very much for such a detailed write up! We just launched a new website... If anyone gets a broken link, here’s the new address: Home

Will do, I will edit that post when I get time.

 

[Corey]

Goose Gear Cargo Drawers Installed 10-22-2017

The cargobox I have had in my FJ Cruiser since day one was actually made for my '91 4Runner by a carpenter at Boeing.
It is heavy, very thick, and not a lot of room inside of it, but it has done the job since July of 2006 for the FJ.

Lately I have been thinking of a new drawer setup that is light weight, durable, bigger inside, and good looking
The Goose Gear stuff caught my attention, but it is not cheap, but it is very well made, and a lot of folk's are running their stuff in their rigs.
I contacted Brain there, and began a dialogue of what size we could come up with to work best in my FJ Cruiser.

At a future date I will get the FJC plate system that bolts down in the back of the FJ utilizing the cargo hold down bolts.
The cargobox will tie in with it, and also bolt to it making it much safer.

At first I was thinking of getting two of the taller drawer modules you can see listed on their site, but for them to work being so tall, you cannot have anything on the rear door like I do, as then the door would not close.
With the shorter cargobox, but still taller than my old one, the stuff on the rear door will not interfere with the door hitting the new box.

The new box is 38 3/8" wide by 27" deep, and 8" tall.
It also sits back future giving me longer drawers than the old box.
The old box is 37" wide by 21" deep (only 16" deep on the left side) by 7" tall as seen in the rear of the old 4Runner.
Being made out of thicker wood, a lot of wasted space compared to the new Goose Gear unit.

I also bought the Trekpak at 4" high to create specific sized storage areas within the drawers, and also some heavy duty toolbox drawer liner to put down first to protect the bottom of the drawers, and also to keep gear from sliding around.

At a future date I may add in a Tembo Tusk fridge 28" slide for the right side so I can put the Trail Kitchens chuckbox on it.
This way I can cook on it and use it if I do not want to setup the chuckbox on a camping/picnic table.

Very happy with the way the box turned out, and it sure is nice having a little more room for gear in it.
I will be ordering the FJ Cruiser plate soon to keep the box secure, and also from tipping back when you have both drawers out.
You can see how it tips back in the video below the pictures.

Links:

Goose Gear

Side x Side Drawer Module

FJ Cruiser Plate System

TrekPak 4" x 46" Strip

TrekPak Cut Tool

TrekPak Pins and Tabs

Professional Tool Box Liner and Shelf Liner, Thick 3mm, 18" x 24 feet by Reizen Tech (18" x 24', Black)

Pics:

'Tis a good fit the new Goose Gear cargobox

The TrekPak drawer dividers is very cool to work with, as you can customize individual compartments with it to fit your gear/tools

Picture of the old cargobox above

 

[Corey]

Goose Gear Phase II FJC Plate Installed 7-18-2017

The Goose Gear FJC Plate System attaches to the floor of the FJC, and the cargobox or any other modules you get from Goose Gear to it to prevent them from sliding around.
We have had tons of rain here, and yesterday when I got home from work I had a break in the rain, so I pulled the cargobox out.

Steps:

(1) This morning I took off the four D rings on the stock rubber/plastic floor in cargo area.
Also pull off the forward threshold, the one that was underneath the rear of the fridge.
You will not be reusing it again.

(2) Unscrew the rear threshold and set it aside, you will reuse this piece.
After removing it, take off the rubber/plastic flooring, you will not reuse it.

(3) Slide in the FJC plate, and position the rear D rings and use the two long bolts and lock washers that take a 5/32" allen wrench.
You may need to slide these around a bit once you put in the cargobox.
The four short 5/32" bolts and lock washers and insert them into the two front risers on the plate.
After tightening all six of the bolts, the plate is now secure.
Make sure you put back on the rear threshold again with the screws.
I have three of those Adventure Tool Company tool rolls, they sure come in handy for organizing your tools, and all three of them fit into the left drawer.

(4) Put in the cargobox without the drawers, and loosen the L shaped brackets inside of the cargobox with the 5/32" allen wrench.
Position the cargobox where you would like it.
I pushed it forward to within about 1" of the 12v plug on the back of the fridge, this will give me room enough if I have to unplug the cable from it.
Once the cargobox is in position slide the L shaped brackets to align up with the holes on the FJC plate.
Tighten up the bolts and lock washers with a 7/16" ratchet wrench of socket, and then tighten all four of the 5/32" screws to secure the L brackets to the sides of the cargobox.
Almost done...

(5) Put the two drawers back in, and you are done.
Since the cargobox is positioned to the far left, I had to take the screw jack and handle out of the left side storage.
I will find a place in the rig to keep them, but I do not think I will have room in the cargobox for them.

I also bought a pack of four tie down module anchors that I can place around the top of my cargobox to secure gear on top with.
They make two sizes.
1/4" for the top of module systems, and 3/4" to insert into the tops of their plate systems.
The latter would be useful if you only have half of your plate system filled with a module, and the other half is open, but you want to secure gear to the top of the plate by tying it down.

Links:

FJ Cruiser Plate System

Module Anchor Pack 1/4" size for the top of cargoboxes or modules

Phase III will consist of the Tembo Tusk standard front pull fridge slide, and it will be used to mount the new Camp Kitchens chuckbox to it.
This way I can use the chuckbox in the rig and cook on top of it if I do not feel like setting up a table outside of the rig.

 

[Corey]

Goose Gear Phase III, Tembo Tusk Fridge Slide Installed 12-3-2017

Getting near done with the Goose Gear cargobox/drawer setup.
I see other peoples rigs and it gives me ideas, kudos to those who hath given me inspiration.

I have seen kitchen setups in the back of rigs before on a pull out, and a fridge next to it.
I am happy where my fridge is now behind the drivers seat, but I thought it would be practical to have my new Trail Kitchens chuckbox on a fridge slide on the right side of the new cargobox.
This way if I do not feel like setting up my chuckbox on one of the Eezi-Awn K9 medium tables, I can prep food and cook right out of the back of my FJ Cruiser.

Turns out this slide and the chuckbox were made for each other, as the fit the long way side to side there is no gap.
Front to rear there is a few inches, and that can be useful if you want to lay something down in that area.

The instructions called for 5/16" bolts, but Brain from Goose Gear told me to pick up the 1/4" stuff that I bought below.
Jerry from Tembo Tusk said the 1/4" would be fine, but to use a flat washer on top too under the head of the bolts.
You also use a flat washer on the inner bottom side inside of the cargobox along with the Nylock nut.

Very happy with the way this turned out, and I can either strap the Camp Chef stove to the top of the chuckbox in transit, or have it off to the side.
I had picked up a Blue Ridge Overlanding Gear stove bag awhile back they make for the Camp Chef Everest stove, but it fits my Camp Chef Denali perfectly.
With the old wood chuckbox the stove was stored inside, but this chuckbox is smaller to save weight and space in the rig.
The stove could fit inside, but I would lose the space on the bottom of the chuckbox where I store stuff.

Also installed the Goose Gear Anchor Pack, Module 1/4" Thread I had bought awhile back that is linked in a previous post in this thread to the top of the cargobox so I have tie-down points for lashing camping gear to the top of the cargobox.

Yes, I am pretty stoked overall of how the Goose Gear cargobox turned out, and also the Tembo Tusk fridge slide.

Links:

Standard Front Pull Fridge Slide

Extreme Duty Fridge & Cargo Tie Down System
Also known as Buffalo straps

Obviously I did not need 100 of each item below, but I wanted to build up my supply since I did not have any laying around.

1/4-20-Inch x 1-Inch Grade 5 Coarse Hex Cap Screws, 100-Piece

Nylon Insert Lock Nut, 1/4-Inch by 20-Inch, 100-Pack

1/4" Stainless Fender Washer, 1-1/4" Outside Diameter, (100 Pack)

Pics:

Fridge slide in place and bolted down

Trail Kitchens chuckbox strapped in and sitting pretty

Slide extended with chuckbox closed

Slide extended with chuckbox open, and with the stove setup on top

Video:

 

[Corey]

ATC Tool Pouch & Mesh Organizer Inserts 12-16-2017

I added an SAE socket set to my right the other day to go along with my metric set, and instead of carrying two plastic cases in my new Goose Gear cargobox, I bought another medium sized tool pouch and insert from Paul and Amy at Adventure Tool Company.

Their gear is great to organize your tools, as I already own three of their products for organizing my tools in the rig.
This keeps all sockets and their handles in two separate bags.
One for the metric set, and one for the SAE set.
And since they are made out of waxed canvas, they smell very nice!

Links:

Adventure Tool Company

Tool Pouches Medium Lined With Blazed Orange Cordura, And "Sockets" Name Tag Insignia

Mesh Organizer Inserts, aka See-Ums (Set of 4)

Pics:

Always a pleasure to receive a package form Paul and Amy, as they go the extra distance to make it personal for you

All the booty laid out

The two cases the sockets came in

Two of the four mesh bags loaded up, hmmmm, what to do with the extra two

The new bag is at the top of the cargobox

Next mod is the longer fridge slides for the Tembo Tusk so my chuckbox will come out further.
They arrive today...

 

[Corey]

Phase IV Goose-Gear/Tembo Tusk Updated 12-21-2017

Phase IV you say?
As you could see from the previous pictures, when the chuckbox was pulled out there was not much room to stand when its door/table was in the down position.
I would have had to dis-mount the Outer Limits Weekender first aid kit to stand there, and it would still be tight.

Rotating the chuckbox 180 degrees so it opens on the passenger side the door would not drop down due to it hitting the rig inside by the tail light area.

I got a hold of Jerry at Tembo Tusk and asked if they had longer Accuride slide tracks, and why yes they do.
He had to order in a pair of 35" ones for me, drill a few new locating holes. and ship them out to me.

He had detailed instructions for removing the original ones, and mounting up the new ones, so it was a very easy job.
Now when I pull the chuckbox out, I have room to drop down the door and use it as a prep table facing it from the passenger side, very nice.

I started removing the stock rails yesterday, and they are around 28" long, and the new ones are 36" long.
Ooooops, I thought they might have to hang out the back, and that would require me not having a rear door
I got a hold of Jerry, and the extended length actually comes into the cab, I was unaware as I thought these were tripped stacked rails instead of double like the stock ones, but Jerry informed me on the phone triples would reduce the weight handling capability of them.
This would mean loosing some cargo space inside, but I can work with that.
Remember, I am on a reduction diet of the gear I take, and I have already cut back to two Alu-boxes instead of the three I have now

It turned out very nice, and it was below 30° this morning, but very sunny.
Usually not doing work on the rig when it is cold out there.
I did have to cut the tray on each side with a hacksaw, as the ends of the rails butt up against a lip, and the longer length of the new rails would not work, unless I wanted to use the upper mounting holes, but that would raise the tray the chuckbox sits on about 1/5" higher, so I opted to notch the lip.

Pics:

Showing the door/table not being able to drop down all the way due to the stock shorter slide rails

New 36" rails in place

Shot of the chuckbox tucked away, same as before

Shot of it from the rear closed, it comes out about 8" more than before

With the door/table in the down position

Rear shot with the Camp Chef Denali stove on top

Side shot with the stove setup

Inside shot showing how the rails protrude into the cargo area, and you can see the two notches I had to cut in the lip

Down to just one Eezi-Awn K9 table now, with the rails extending into the cargo area, the rail was hitting a second table
I may have a solution to rectify that at a later date

Now I need a food truck license

 

[Corey]

Update To The Stove Height/Chuckbox In The Rig 12-30-2017

So as seen in the last set of pictures, the stove sat too high on top of the chuckbox, so high I would have to stand on a step stool, and risk falling off.
The solution would be to just move the stove down to the chuckboxes door/table, but the backside of the latch prevented the stove from sitting flush and level.

I had some of these plastic plugs leftover from some extensions for some studio monitor speakers that just happen to go into the holes on the bottoms of the stoves rubber feet.
They raise the stove up high enough that I can now place the stove on the door/table and use it.
Problem solved!

First up though is a picture I took a few days ago with my tablet showing how Alu-Boxes are going to fit perfectly in between the extended rails for the fridge slide.
Even the Blue Ridge Chair Works chair fits withing the rail too to snuggle up against the Alu-Box.
This is just the 42 liter one which I will not be using, as I will be taking the 60 liter one for dry food, and the 73 liter one which houses miscellaneous gear.
They will double stack in this space perfectly.
I will move the solar panel though and stand it up on its side, as I think the weight of the two Alu-Boxes will compromise the padded case and might break the solar panel glass, not good.

Here are a few shots of the bottom of the stove showing the plastic extensions inserted into the stoves rubber feet.

And finally the stove sitting on the door/table of the chuckbox, thus lowering it to a more suitable height in which to cook food.
I always have the option though to just move the stove to one of my camp tables.

 

[Corey]

Its Hammer Time! 1-13-2018

First day in awhile with it being fairly nice outside, and no rain.
I cleaned out my interior which needed it badly, and was organizing my cargobox a bit, and I spied the plastic tent stake hammer in there that I have been wanting to move to the rear door fold down rack/table.

I had some more of those mini Quick Fists like I used for the small hatchet, but they were too small.
I also had two more pair of the bigger ones like that hold my Fiskars axe to the rack.
Perfect size, and now I do not have to dig through the cargobox when it is hammer time for pounding in stakes for various camping accessories.
This hammer also pulls out stakes too.
I have had the hammer since the late 80s when I use to backpack around Mount Rainier.
Light weight, and it does a great job, even on bigger heavier stakes.

I had bought it at REI, but Amazon carries these too.

Links:

Original Quick Fist Clamp for mounting tools & equipment 1" - 2-1/4" diameter (Pack of 2)

Coleman Mallet with Tent Peg Remover

Pics:

Used the new 1/4" bolts, Nylock nuts, and flat washers that I had bought for the installation of the Tembo Tusk fridge slide to the top of the Goose Gear cargobox

Quick Fists rule

It is a great fit indeed, and much more easy to get to now

 

[Corey]

Spec D Tuning 3.5" Inlet Snorkel Off-Road 4x4 Installed 2-24-2018

I saw a post in Instagram from a guy I follow with an FJ Cruiser that head one of those round dust collectors that when the air comes into the head, it spins and any dirt that enters gets trapped into a receptacle you can empty out by removing the lid.

I am not sure if this breathes as well as the stock Safari snorkel head, but I will test it out for a few days.
I mainly got this for when I explore the old growth logging roads in the Greenwater vicinity.
They can be very dusty during the summer time, and this will help from any dirt reaching the Toyota air filter, thus keeping it from getting clogged.
They are pricey enough

It took less than five minutes to make the swap, just had to loosen a clamp, and take some 409 cleaner to the snorkel and wipe down the outside a bit.

Pics, one video:

Stock Safari head

New Spec D cyclonic head



Link:

Spec-D Tuning SNK-PC35 3.5" Inlet Snorkel Off-Road 4X4 4WD Jeep Cold Air Ram Pre-Cleaner Intake Head

 

[crikeymike]

Spec D Tuning 3.5" Inlet Snorkel Off-Road 4x4 Installed 2-24-2018

I saw a post in Instagram from a guy I follow with an FJ Cruiser that head one of those round dust collectors that when the air comes into the head, it spins and any dirt that enters gets trapped into a receptacle you can empty out by removing the lid.

I am not sure if this breathes as well as the stock Safari snorkel head, but I will test it out for a few days.
I mainly got this for when I explore the old growth logging roads in the Greenwater vicinity.
They can be very dusty during the summer time, and this will help from any dirt reaching the Toyota air filter, thus keeping it from getting clogged.
They are pricey enough

It took less than five minutes to make the swap, just had to loosen a clamp, and take some 409 cleaner to the snorkel and wipe down the outside a bit.

Pics, one video:

Stock Safari head

New Spec D cyclonic head



Link:

Spec-D Tuning SNK-PC35 3.5" Inlet Snorkel Off-Road 4X4 4WD Jeep Cold Air Ram Pre-Cleaner Intake Head

Throw a few colored ping pong balls in there just for fun!! hahahah

 

[Corey]

Throw a few colored ping pong balls in there just for fun!! hahahah

He he, I have heard of the Donaldson unit too, I wonder if it is a better unit than this one.

 

[Corey]

Relocated Backup Camera 3-10-2018

Almost two years ago I had my rear ARB bumper installed, and the shop moved the backup camera to the spare tires center cap.
Although it was a great spot to see everything centered behind me, the camera became useless once I installed my Maxtrax on the spare tire hanger for them.

This morning I finally got around to relocating the camera which I should have done a long time ago.
There really is not a good spot to get the camera centered again, so I opted to have it off to the side on the BajaRacks ladder mount.

I could mount it lower and get a better field of view by mounting it underneath the rear lip of the ARB bumper, but then I take a chance of it ripping off while exploring trails where I like to go.
This will work for now where I have it, but in the future I may monkey around and see if I can get it centered and lower.

Rig is filthy, needs a bath badly.

Camera on the wheels center cap, not a good place for it, because if I had to use the spare tire, the camera would have to be unscrewed from the cap

Closeup of the center cap and camera

Camera in its new place

Screenshot on the Pioneer stereo, image is reversed, will have to see if there is an option to fix that in the settings