Builds SAS 89 Mini--Triple cased Mashed Potato (1 Viewer)

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OMG.........you are just showing off now. I guess next you are going to put 8 small l e d's under neath. That way you can see if you have enough clearance to get over the concrete parking space stop. Show off.
 
OMG.........you are just showing off now.

Oh yeah? Wait until you see that it's gonna be white! :singing:


I guess next you are going to put 8 small l e d's under neath. That way you can see if you have enough clearance to get over the concrete parking space stop. Show off.

hah, already got em, thought they were required for the mall.
 
How are the rear brakes working out? I know they are better then what you had before but can you actually stop now without downshifting?
 
How are the rear brakes working out? I know they are better then what you had before but can you actually stop now without downshifting?

The disc conversion has been a good upgrade and they're working far better than before.

But, I think I still have work to do, the pedal still seems a little soft. The MC is only 3-4 years old and was new when installed, have new brake lines front and rear so I'm thinking brake booster maybe(?)
 
Ted, do you have a check valve in the vacuum line running from the intake manifold to booster? I've had a blocked check valve cause a massive dead-spot in a brake pedal.

I've also had a pin-sized hole in the back of a brake booster cause soft pedal issues.

A brake pedal can also be the issue, or a contributing factor. The pedal assembly has a few components that can wear out over time (although unlikely, still a possibility), or the push rod could be damaged/worn or out of adjustment (more likely).

Are you running an LSPV, or aftermarket proportioning valve of any sort? Could be an issue of brake-bias.

Are you running a Toyota rear caliper of some other truck, or an aftermarket? The reason I ask, is I've done a few big brake kits on previous "fun cars" and even in the situations where I was running a factory 4 piston caliper upgrade from another car of the same make, it was hard to get them dialed in to my liking (stiffest pedal feel possible, consistent throughout the pedals range of motion with no dead-spots) without upgrading the MC as well. So, in your case, if your MC is stock, you might benefit from an OEM upgrade MC, or an aftermarket/performance MC.

I'm sure you've thought of/addressed most of this stuff that's actually applicable to your truck - just brainstorming here! I can totally give you a hand messing with the brakes this Saturday if you're feeling better. I'll bring my pneumatic bleeder if you don't have one already.

P.S. - Has anyone run a dual rear caliper setup on a crawler? Probably pointless, but I could see having a dedicated hydraulic E-Brake with it's own two calipers being a nice addition for reducing driveline strain on long, downhill stents or a safety blanket for moments when your brakes and driveline randomly fail...
:flush: - hehe.

 
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all great questions, thanks!! My knowledge of the braking system is limited so a lot of this will be a homework assignment for now. Real answers to found and answered later but this what I can answer.

Keep in mind, very very little "factory setup" still exists on this truck. Jus' sayin.

Setup is as follows:

3.0 V6 motor with original booster and NEW (not reman) MC from Napa installed 4 yrs ago.
FJ60 front rotors on original IFS Calipers
Factory LSPV still inline. However, linkage detached from rear axle years ago when SAS was performed.
Factory E-brake and cable long since gone.​

this setup worked fairly well until mid 2015 when pedal started needing 1-2 pumps to really hold. Ran it like that until mid/late last year when brakes started becoming softer to almost none at times. Obviously not ideal.

Rear Disc conversion performed this fall, components include:

Early 80's Front brake calipers, 1 newly reman, 1 not.
early 80s minitruck rotors - New
New SS brake lines front and rear
Wilwood manual adjusted Proportioning Valve installed next to MC.​


Ted, do you have a check valve in the vacuum line running from the intake manifold to booster? I've had a blocked check valve cause a massive dead-spot in a brake pedal.

I've also had a pin-sized hole in the back of a brake booster cause soft pedal issues.

will have to check both but no dead spots to report.

A brake pedal can also be the issue, or a contributing factor. The pedal assembly has a few components that can wear out over time (although unlikely, still a possibility), or the push rod could be damaged/worn or out of adjustment (more likely).

This suggestions makes total sense and will frankly be my first area of attention. Truck has +/- 300K on it with the last few being the just slightest bit tough on hardware. A worn out pedal bracket, bushing etc. from all of the "oh s***" moments is entirely plausible. Just so happens I have spare from one of my cab swaps. :flipoff2:

Are you running an LSPV, or aftermarket proportioning valve of any sort? Could be an issue of brake-bias.

Are you running a Toyota rear caliper of some other truck, or an aftermarket? The reason I ask, is I've done a few big brake kits on previous "fun cars" and even in the situations where I was running a factory 4 piston caliper upgrade from another car of the same make, it was hard to get them dialed in to my liking (stiffest pedal feel possible, consistent throughout the pedals range of motion with no dead-spots) without upgrading the MC as well. So, in your case, if your MC is stock, you might benefit from an OEM upgrade MC, or an aftermarket/performance MC.

See above

I'm sure you've thought of/addressed most of this stuff that's actually applicable to your truck - just brainstorming here! I can totally give you a hand messing with the brakes this Saturday if you're feeling better. I'll bring my pneumatic bleeder if you don't have one already.

P.S. - Has anyone run a dual rear caliper setup on a crawler? Probably pointless, but I could see having a dedicated hydraulic E-Brake with it's own two calipers being a nice addition for reducing driveline strain on long, downhill stents or a safety blanket for moments when your brakes and driveline randomly fail...
:flush: - hehe.

No, not by any means thought of everything. Appreciate the post!!
 
@TeddyBoy

After doing this same conversion on my junk. I can say my pedal is nice and firm and does not bleed off like before. I done the following.

1987 mini truck calipers, rotors and pads. (all new with lifetime warranty from Autozone)

LSPV gone (take off and throw in garbage can)

1993 FJ80 master cylinder (also new from Autozone with life time warranty)

Two line locks to replace parking brake (also removed and throw in garbage can) (one line lock for front end and one line lock for rear end)

My brakes have never been better.

Just my two cents worth.
 
startin' to get an itch...

IMAG0808.jpg
 
DO IT!! Just wait til after GSMTR :D
 
been awhile since last update, no big changes in last few months cuz the thing just frick'n works now. :worms:


Have started to swap out the front axle housing in prep for the the full hydro steering setup within the next couple fo weeks.

Pulled the old axle housing out the leaf springs pins looked a tad tweeked, thinking this one is shot!

Passenger side - just replaced during GSMTR so has about 3 days wheeling on it.
20170708_110855.jpg


Driver's side was worse, far worse.
20170708_110909.jpg



Had to cut the top of the drvers side to get out.
20170708_113522.jpg


Anyway, new housing is in before I ran out of materials to complete the replacement today.
20170708_143627.jpg


And just in case you guys forgot what the Mashed tater looks like. :flipoff2:
18627521_1547220435421739_4627662326105899009_n.jpg
 
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From what I've seen, it works then breaks, then works, then breaks, then breaks a couple more times. :lol:

In regard to real tech, did you go with the same hydro setup as John? How much do you have in the swap?
 
From what I've seen, it works then breaks, then works, then breaks, then breaks a couple more times. :lol:

In regard to real tech, did you go with the same hydro setup as John? How much do you have in the swap?

likely to regret this but it's been fairly reliable since mid to late last year, minus the stupid leaf spring pins of course. Anyway, nothing major <EDIT>, not gonna tempt the gods... :doh:

While I was hunting around under the truck I also found 3 missing TC bolts and 1 broken TC bolt hole. Guessing all the torque generated by trip cases may have something to do with that.
 
likely to regret this but it's been fairly reliable since mid to late last year, minus the stupid leaf spring pins of course. Anyway, nothing major <EDIT>, not gonna tempt the gods... :doh:

While I was hunting around under the truck I also found 3 missing TC bolts and 1 broken TC bolt hole. Guessing all the torque generated by trip cases may have something to do with that.

What hydro setup did you use? Is it a John firlift special?
 
What hydro setup did you use? Is it a John firlift special?

Yup, I'll get some specs and pics up in the next few weeks. doing if a little differently than john though. If you remember John installed a new steering column with orbital and a single sided ram similar to how a hydro assist setup is configured.

Instead, I'm going the more conventional Hydro route with a double ended ram and retaining my steering column, will just connect the orbital to the end of my factory steering shaft. The orbital I chose will allow a quicker lock to lock turning ratio than a factory setup, this will be less desirable on the road than dirt but I do very little blacktop anymore. Grand total cost will be around $400
 
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Sounds like it's going to be sweet.

Now you will snap off steering arm bolts.


but I gots 6 per side so that oughta be good for somethin.
 
crappy pic but mock-up has begun. trick is placing it just high enough to clear the top of the springs but low enough not to get into the oil pan on full compression.

should have the links fabbed next Saturday and then for placing the orbital and making the hoses.

20170722_160834.jpg
 

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