OMG.........you are just showing off now. I guess next you are going to put 8 small l e d's under neath. That way you can see if you have enough clearance to get over the concrete parking space stop. Show off.
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OMG.........you are just showing off now.
I guess next you are going to put 8 small l e d's under neath. That way you can see if you have enough clearance to get over the concrete parking space stop. Show off.
How are the rear brakes working out? I know they are better then what you had before but can you actually stop now without downshifting?
Ted, do you have a check valve in the vacuum line running from the intake manifold to booster? I've had a blocked check valve cause a massive dead-spot in a brake pedal.
I've also had a pin-sized hole in the back of a brake booster cause soft pedal issues.
A brake pedal can also be the issue, or a contributing factor. The pedal assembly has a few components that can wear out over time (although unlikely, still a possibility), or the push rod could be damaged/worn or out of adjustment (more likely).
Are you running an LSPV, or aftermarket proportioning valve of any sort? Could be an issue of brake-bias.
Are you running a Toyota rear caliper of some other truck, or an aftermarket? The reason I ask, is I've done a few big brake kits on previous "fun cars" and even in the situations where I was running a factory 4 piston caliper upgrade from another car of the same make, it was hard to get them dialed in to my liking (stiffest pedal feel possible, consistent throughout the pedals range of motion with no dead-spots) without upgrading the MC as well. So, in your case, if your MC is stock, you might benefit from an OEM upgrade MC, or an aftermarket/performance MC.
I'm sure you've thought of/addressed most of this stuff that's actually applicable to your truck - just brainstorming here! I can totally give you a hand messing with the brakes this Saturday if you're feeling better. I'll bring my pneumatic bleeder if you don't have one already.
P.S. - Has anyone run a dual rear caliper setup on a crawler? Probably pointless, but I could see having a dedicated hydraulic E-Brake with it's own two calipers being a nice addition for reducing driveline strain on long, downhill stents or a safety blanket for moments when your brakes and driveline randomly fail...
- hehe.
From what I've seen, it works then breaks, then works, then breaks, then breaks a couple more times.
In regard to real tech, did you go with the same hydro setup as John? How much do you have in the swap?
likely to regret this but it's been fairly reliable since mid to late last year, minus the stupid leaf spring pins of course. Anyway, nothing major <EDIT>, not gonna tempt the gods...
While I was hunting around under the truck I also found 3 missing TC bolts and 1 broken TC bolt hole. Guessing all the torque generated by trip cases may have something to do with that.
What hydro setup did you use? Is it a John firlift special?