I've been looking and haven't been able to find any write ups on anyone actually replacing the drivers side manifold. Is this something everyone has just taken to a shop? I keep getting labor estimates at $625-700 and I'm thinking thats a little more than I want to spend. If anyone has done it can they give me a heads up as to the easiest way to go about it.
Exhaust manifold replacement, drivers side (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter olive
- Start date
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Ticking noise in 2000 Cruiser
You have to remove the steering shaft that much I know. I can't help beyond that.
You have to remove the steering shaft that much I know. I can't help beyond that.
Would be interested in that DIY too! i'm also getting lifter tick very annoying although I'm unsure if it is for certain the manifold
staggrlee
GOLD Star
Search for the Doug Thorley header threads from back in 2010 or so. A number of people purchased them at the same time through a GB here and people found that the FSM procedure calling for disconnecting steering wasn't necessary.
I think it's possible to get enough clearance by disconnecting one or more of the engine mounts and jacking up the engine???
I think it's possible to get enough clearance by disconnecting one or more of the engine mounts and jacking up the engine???
I got a write-up and pics from a guy on another forum. PM me your email address, and I'll send them your way. I've had my replacement manifold on my bench for a couple months, and I may finally get off my ass and do it in the next week, or so lol.
bwell
SILVER Star
I think if I remember correctly, when I pulled mine out and cleaned up and re-welded the flanges on the exhaust manifold's. It is quite possibly the cheapest set up they could get by with and it failed miserably, the material the exhaust manifolds are made out of might at the most be 16 gauge material. I had just barely enough studs extra on hand, I ordered eight I believe, and used six(three on each side) on the actual collector portion that goes down to the catalytic converters, and only replaced two that went into cylinder heads. Both use the same studs and nuts.
As far as procedure, my 100 series spent most of its life in the desert southwestern part of country so is basically rust free-keep that in mind as you might need all new studs and nuts. I took off the three nuts from exhaust manifold flange to catal Unbolted drivers side engine mount, and jacked drivers side up using approximate 12" long 2x4. The heat shield was a bit unnerving, and was a pain, and so were the rest of the manifold stud nuts, but I think only two studs came out when I did the drivers side, so I just replaced both of them with hardware on hand.
If you have a large assortment of extensions, like two to three long ones, same number of short ones and several universal joints- you can get to all of them using patience and without having to remove any further components.
Drivers side took me a solid, almost six to seven hours, but that included me removing exhaust manifold fixing exhaust manifold flanges, cleaning them back up with some carbide bits, new manifold to cylinder head gaskets, then having to weldup a stud hole or two, locate, drill and tap flange studs locations on the collector flange mount so that I could salvage the stock manifolds. Then fought with manifold alignment into stock collector pipe down to cat.
Reassemble in backwards order, no more ticks and less than $70 in parts.
If you are going to spend that kind of money I would just get a set of header's.
As far as procedure, my 100 series spent most of its life in the desert southwestern part of country so is basically rust free-keep that in mind as you might need all new studs and nuts. I took off the three nuts from exhaust manifold flange to catal Unbolted drivers side engine mount, and jacked drivers side up using approximate 12" long 2x4. The heat shield was a bit unnerving, and was a pain, and so were the rest of the manifold stud nuts, but I think only two studs came out when I did the drivers side, so I just replaced both of them with hardware on hand.
If you have a large assortment of extensions, like two to three long ones, same number of short ones and several universal joints- you can get to all of them using patience and without having to remove any further components.
Drivers side took me a solid, almost six to seven hours, but that included me removing exhaust manifold fixing exhaust manifold flanges, cleaning them back up with some carbide bits, new manifold to cylinder head gaskets, then having to weldup a stud hole or two, locate, drill and tap flange studs locations on the collector flange mount so that I could salvage the stock manifolds. Then fought with manifold alignment into stock collector pipe down to cat.
Reassemble in backwards order, no more ticks and less than $70 in parts.
If you are going to spend that kind of money I would just get a set of header's.
- Thread starter
- #9
Well the leak wasn't to bad until this last month, now it's getting to the point were I notice a lot more even when it's warm.
- Thread starter
- #10
I think I will replace the drivers side manifold mostly because mine is a midwest cruiser and it has some rust on it. I don't generally put components like that back on in this area. I would guess if you had to replace a couple exhaust studs I'll probably be doing all of them. Thanks for the info, I appreciate it.
Before you start invest in a 3/4 depth 14mm swivel impact socket. It makes this job 10x easier.
Would you have done anything differently if you did it again? And did you use OEM or headers? Sound better now?
- Thread starter
- #13
Problem is fixed. I know it could come back with the OEM manifold but the weld at the #1 tube has more material than the original so here's hoping I have a good one. (Attached photo is of the new one)
As far as doing anything differently I don't think so. It's a pretty straight forward replacement. What makes it a bugger is the lack of space and if you have any issues with the studs.
I soaked the nuts and studs for several days with PB Blaster. I'm sure that helped.
I Sourced studs and nuts in advance so in the event something went wrong I was ready for it.
Get the socket I mentioned in my first post plus several different extensions.
Good luck and feel free to PM me if you get stuck or have a question.
I just got my cracked manifold out. I got everything but the lower front two nuts off in a couple hours Friday night. I could see those two were going to be a pain to reach, and they looked pretty rusty. I soaked them in PB Blaster before I went to bed Friday, sprayed them twice yesterday, and two more times today. Once it cooled down tonight, I went back out to have a go on the last two nuts. They actually weren't too bad- took about an hour to get those last 2 off and to pull the manifold out. The four nuts on the top and the rear two on the bottom are all pretty straightforward. The forward two on the bottom took some imagination. I ended up having success with a 14mm deep socket on a universal joint with a 20" extension for both of them- the stiffer the universal joint, the easier it is to get the socket on the nut.
Does it sound loads better?
Also, are you using a new gasket or heat shield?
I haven't put the new one on yet.
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I re-used the heat shield, and replaced the manifold and exhaust flange gaskets. It sounds like a 2UZ-FE again.
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YardPig
SILVER Star
Thanks, I'll have to do this one day. I've heard a light tick cold for the last year and these things never get better...
