ppc
M Go Blue
Another option would be to install a shut-off valve (don't use brass) on the outbound heater line so that if it did start to leak, it can be easily shut down.
What if the inbound heater line fails?
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Another option would be to install a shut-off valve (don't use brass) on the outbound heater line so that if it did start to leak, it can be easily shut down.
You'll be hating life if it springs a leak miles for nowhere. Bypass it now in your driveway were it's easy to work on, instead of on the trail
ih8mud has made me neurotic about this. I replaced my radiator as PM a couple months back and watch my temp gauge about as frequently as my tach.
[QUOTEie, post: 11062077, member: 6"]
I see where your coming from about MUD OCD but, when the same fault occurs on hundreds of the same model, then forewarned is forearmed. Driveway, sunny day, OR side of road at night, pissing down with rain, kids screaming in the back, oh and no cell signal?
But if you don't live in the anti -rust zone, you will wind up using public transportation if you don't do many of the things you read about here.I've only had my rig 13yrs and I've used the rear heater twice...when I flushed the coolant system. I might remove it someday. I live in the anti-rust zone, so that helps. Spending too much time reading everything that could go wrong will cause you to leave your rig in the driveway and only use public transport.
[QUOTEie, post: 11062077, member: 6"]I don't work on things because I feel like they might break in the future. I have inspected all the lines and the unit and they look brand new. Plus I live in San Diego so corrosion has not been an issue.
Another option would be to install a shut-off valve (don't use brass) on the outbound heater line so that if it did start to leak, it can be easily shut down.
I kept my rear heater, but also replaced/bypassed the hard lines.
I was able to run 5/8" heater hose down the firewall, along the frame and into the rear heater bypassing the hard lines completely but retaining the rear heater.
This is another option if you wish to keep it, it was quite easy to do.
I think I bought 16ft of it, had quite a bit left over. Could probably get away with 12ft?I like this option! How many feet of 5/8 heater hose is required?
Thanks!
Not arguing with this exactly, but taken to the extreme there was a guy on here who just bought an FZJ80 and was planning on a cross country trip to which someone replied he shouldn't do it unless the head gasket was replaced first.
I've only had my rig 13yrs and I've used the rear heater twice...when I flushed the coolant system. I might remove it someday. I live in the anti-rust zone, so that helps. Spending too much time reading everything that could go wrong will cause you to leave your rig in the driveway and only use public transport.
@1973Guppie
You have not answered my question "can you see the hard lines all the way through to the heater on the gasoline versions?"
The reason I asked is it seems that failure is from outside in as opposed to inside out, so maintenance is not the issue. I was not saying remove the heater unless you have no use for it (I live in Southern Spain), but pointed out there is some space to be had if needed.
This problem of corrosion in this particular area is not generalising, it is a common failure point and should be addressed by either, replacing or at least dtopping the heat shield (if you have one), and checking them out thoroughly.
Something else worth noting, if you do get a leak it is under the seat area of the floor pan, so the smell wafting backwards as you drive, you may not smell it. Given you may be an avid gauge watcher this too is not going to help, the 80 gauge is 'dumbed down' so a rise in engine temperature will happen before the gauge moves.
I am not trying to rock your boat but, 48 years under a hood teaches you a thing or two and preventative maintenance should never be underestimated.
Regards
Dave
diff abuse history. Kind of like women.
SNIP
I'm quirky that way. (Pronounced OCD)
Speaking of which...I need to change my rear heater lines and I have not got around to it. Are the replacement metal lines available? It appears to be a giant PITA to replace them, as if I may need to remove the exhaust to make that happen. I am concerned that if I replace them with hose, the exhaust will melt the hoses. Any thoughts here?
I'm in the rust belt, and yes, they rust on the OUTSIDE, and NO, I cannot see the entire length of the lines on the petrol versions. They are partially obscured by heat shields.