The Coleman Thread (6 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

NAb that lamp!
 
Was listed at a garage sale that came and went. :frown:
 
I past a couple 3 weeks ago... they come and go. there is an old coleman iron for $45 local right now, but the wife says I can't; cause I never iron at home- no need for one camping...Antique Coleman Gas Iron
00G0G_g2sfIGVLFIR_600x450.jpg

if they left an addy might be worth cold knocking- as long as they have neighbors you can see from their doorstep!
 
Got back to the Peak feather 400 I pick up at a garage sale last summer. I have it burning to a nice blue flame but it is either on or off. No way to get it to burn with a low flame. Is that normal? It looks like the normal Coleman burner with a smaller version of the typical generator.
 
So...my grandpas old 413f has no date code on the tank or case... is this a replacement tank? Is there any way to narrow down the date?

Never been able to find a date on my 413. They say sometimes on the tank tabs but even when I sandblasted it for paint there was nothing.
 
So I have a 220 lantern that is giving me fits. I can't get it to pump up and pressurise, despite a new oiled leather and a through cleaning of the check valve with carb cleaner. I can, with my mouth, blow air down the air tube and get some air into the fount, but the pump will not do the same. I can also blow air through the fuel fill hole and get air past the check valve into pump tube. Is this an indication of a bad check valve?

I also have a hard to turn needle cleaning lever, but I want to get it running before I take it all apart just to be sure everything works like it should. Is a hard to turn needle cleaning lever just an indication of the seal packing gone?
 
Never been able to find a date on my 413. They say sometimes on the tank tabs but even when I sandblasted it for paint there was nothing.

I don't think suitcase stoves got dates until '64-'65.
 
So I have a 220 lantern that is giving me fits. I can't get it to pump up and pressurise, despite a new oiled leather and a through cleaning of the check valve with carb cleaner. I can, with my mouth, blow air down the air tube and get some air into the fount, but the pump will not do the same. I can also blow air through the fuel fill hole and get air past the check valve into pump tube. Is this an indication of a bad check valve?

I also have a hard to turn needle cleaning lever, but I want to get it running before I take it all apart just to be sure everything works like it should. Is a hard to turn needle cleaning lever just an indication of the seal packing gone?


has it ever worked for you? sounds like a backwards checkvalve, but not sure if that's even possible
 
has it ever worked for you? sounds like a backwards checkvalve, but not sure if that's even possible

It's new to me. I bought it for$20.

I've never had one that didn't pressurize, some carb cleaner and an oil soak on the leather has always worked for me. I guess it's time to order the check valve removal tool and some check valves. I hate just replacing parts, but I don't like the fact that air can leak past through it from the fount side.
 
Last edited:
I never even took off the spring washer, I just soaked it in a cup of 3in1 oil, assembly and all. The leather is on correctly.

The overall cosmetic condition is really good, as it came with a plastic case. The mechanicals on the other hand are piss poor, thankfully it looks like no one has attempted to "restore" it yet. I think some fuel, other than true colman fuel, was used it it's past.
 
How about a little troubleshooting assistance? Flea market score for about $20. I've disassembled it, cleaned it with carb cleaner and blew it out with compressed air. Good pressure in the tank with the valve fully open and the stove burns with this high orange flame. Secondary burner burns with a low blue flame. Take another shot at disassembling and cleaning that burner plate?

IMG_2038.JPG
 
That looks like a great user stove. I wonder how the tank lost all it's paint. The yellow flames indicate a rich condition. ie not enough air. It's usually spider webs, mud daubers, and similar in the manifold. Clean it out with a frayed wire or pipe cleaners. Should work great after that.
 
That looks like a great user stove. I wonder how the tank lost all it's paint. The yellow flames indicate a rich condition. ie not enough air. It's usually spider webs, mud daubers, and similar in the manifold. Clean it out with a frayed wire or pipe cleaners. Should work great after that.

I sprayed the tank with carb cleaner to remove built up greasy/oily gunk and that removed the paint.

I'll go back through the manifold tomorrow.
 
Did you turn the valve up for a minute and then back down like it says to do on the fuel tank? If so...I think your valve packing may be shot or previous owner tried to clean it out but didn't replace it. That flame is what your burner should look like when you first light and its flooded ...after a minute when you turn the valve down it should go away. You may need to take the generator off and remove the valve and get some new valve packing. The valve that I am talking about is the where the little handle that flips up on top of the tank.
 
Last edited:
Rich condition could also be the orifice on the gas tip being too large - that thing looks well used. Did you let it run for awhile and get good and hot? On my 413 the shutoff valve will leak a little when shut off if I don't bleed tank pressure off. If it does piss some fuel into the manifold it really flames up until that extra burns off.

Hate to say it but a new generator will set you back nearly as much as you spent on the stove if that is indeed the problem.
 
Godwin, the lever should be up for lighting and then down when warmed up, usually less than a minute.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom