Help replacing speedometer cable (3 Viewers)

[KYFJ62]

Hello, I have a 1989 FJ62 with a broken speedometer cable. I have an OEM replacement cable and I can see how the cable runs from the transfer case, along the drivers side of the transmission, through a grommet in the floor, and up to the speedometer. What I can't figure out is how to access the back of the speedometer to detach the cable.

Anyone know how to do that? Any other recommendations that will make the job easier would be very helpful.

Just for laughs, I took it to a nearby auto repair shop and after looking at it they said they would have to drop the transmission to replace the cable . They must have had the floor sweep take a look at it; don't think I will be taking my truck to them again....major fail on their part. Obviously it is not that hard.

Thanks!!

 

[klinetime574]

Easy to do this. Take the philips head screws out around the gauges and stuff. That whole piece gets loose and the gauges are attached to it. Along with other pieces. You will have enough room to attach the cable. I can't be more specific because I have an FJ60 and we all know the dashes are extremely different! Search on here and you can find pictures to help you out. I would link you but I have forgotten where I saw them

Attach the gauge side first so you have plenty of slack. Then re-assemble the interior (don't forget the grommet) and attach the cable to the transfercase. Less than a days work for sure. And if you ever had to do it again you could have it done in an hour. Maybe less.

Welcome to the forum <-- Official IH8MUD Welcome !

 

[KYFJ62]

Klinetimes574 Thanks!! I just went out and took the screws out....worked like a charm...I knew it could not be that hard. Now disconnect and run the cable.

Thanks!!

 

[klinetime574]

Klinetimes574 Thanks!! I just went out and took the screws out....worked like a charm...I knew it could not be that hard. Now disconnect and run the cable.

Thanks!!

Not a problem. Maybe you will share some photos with us?

We all like seeing photos. No idea why

 

[gregnash]

Definitely want to see photos as I am going to have to do this to mine as soon as I get it.

 

[KYFJ62]

Photos.....dang it....I was a bit task oriented with getting it done, as well as changing the outside down pipe between the stock header and cat. I just got back online and now it is dark and everything is buttoned up.

Gregnash.....it's really an easy job and only took me about an hour and fifteen minutes. Start at the dash and take out all, and I mean all, the philips head screws holding the housing around the instruments; you will need to take the screws out around the radio as well. It kind of rotates from the top out. If it hangs up and is really hard to move, you probably missed a screw. The radio stays in, just the housing around the radio comes out. The instruments, however, do come out as they are attached to the housing. This will allow you to get easily to the back of the speedometer and pull the plug on the cable.

Now attach a cord (para cord works good) to the cable and pull the cable out from the bottom. You will see a small plastic keeper above the gas pedal holding the cable to the dash framework. I finally cut it and replaced it with a zip tie. When the cable goes behind the center console, it goes through the floor; it is kind of hard to get at....barely accessible. This is where the rubber grommet is if you have a new OEM cable. I pulled the old one up with a screwdriver and then pushed it through the hole along with the cable, plug, and para cord.

Now craw under the truck and pull the cable to the back. There is another keeper about halfway back, maybe around the front of the transfer case that is accessible somewhat and is reusable; at least I was able to reuse it. It pops out when you pull on the lower half with pliers and you can snap it back in later. There is also a keeper on the back of the transfer case that is easy to snap open and use on the new cable.

Where the cable goes into the transfer case, just un-screw it but make sure to loosen the bolt just above it. This bold has a keeper that holds the rod in the cable housing and must me loosened so you can remove the cable.

I worked backwards to install the new cable but waited until the very end to hook it up to the transfer case. Use the cord to pull it back through. The new grommet was impossible to install; I got it through the hole but could not get it snapped in and finally gave up. The dash went back together as easy as it came out; no problem. I could not get the back lager portion of the cable back on the upper side of the transfer case but there was plenty of cable to let it ride about 1" outside of where the original one sat.

I have not run it yet to see if it works because I am having problems with the down pipe so hopefully it works. About 5 years ago, I bought a whole exhaust system (minus the cats) from Man-A-Fre that extended from my stock headers to the back. Well, about a month ago, the outside down pipe rusted from the inside out where the O2 sensor hooks up; sounded like a tractor. I called Man-A-Fre and told them what I had and order two new down pipes; they don't sell just one. Imagine my disappointment when I found, after removing the old pipe, that the new pipe is about 8" too short and has the wrong fitting on the manifold side. Seems they don't make downpipes anymore that hook up to the stock headers; only their $595 custom headers. They would have been happy to take them back for a 20% restocking fee except I had already painted them with high temp paint....dang it. My only remedy, I suppose, is to take the old and new down pipes to a muffler shop and see if they can modify the new one to look like the old one.

So, there she sits, stuck in the driveway until I can get the down pipe fixed. Land Cruiser drama, my wife calls it.

 

[Joe_E]

I recently did mine on the 60. So here are some pics to help anyone doing it as well.

Note broken end in cluster..

Tie strong cord and tape to dash end..

Pull gently from under truck, removing grommit as well..

Tie cord to gauge end of new cable and tape it to a point so the big clip end moves up behind dash smoothly..

Work the cable up and make sure you pull it through the wire tie loop in the dash frame. Make sure you have slack and clip it to back of gauge. Also go back and work in the grommit that came on the new cable.

 

[KYFJ62]

Very nice pics! I did not have to remove the whole instrument cluster when I did mine; I just pulled it out far enough to be able to reach the cable plug and I left all the other instruments plugged in. I could not get more than the tips of two fingers on that grommet so I left it on the cab side of the hole; hopefully it does not cause any problems.

 

[Elbert]

the grommet is hard to seal, take something with a rounded end...to try and push the grommet back into the hole so it will sit down and seal properly. Don't use the blade end of a screwdriver as you are libel to rip a hole in it.... Its hard to get into that area at the top end of the transmission tunnel.

 

[Joe_E]

the grommet is hard to seal, take something with a rounded end...to try and push the grommet back into the hole so it will sit down and seal properly. Don't use the blade end of a screwdriver as you are libel to rip a hole in it.... Its hard to get into that area at the top end of the transmission tunnel.

Here's an awesome product that a heavy equip mechanic at work told me to buy. It's called Sil Glide. Completely rubber safe and makes grommets, plugs, hoses go together so nicely.
I got a tube on Amazon.

If you've ever replaced a fuel neck plug, you know what an absolute pain in the ass they are dry. This is the third time i replaced one and used the Sil Glide this time. Went on and slid right into position like a breeze. It should also wake it more watertight.

 

[gregnash]

Thanks for the pics and info guys..
Did you buy an aftermarket cable or the OEM one? Seems like a huge price difference considering I have found aftermarket ones for like $25 but most places have the OEM for $60+. And Joe-E, do you know if you can get the SIL-GLYDE anywhere like NAPA, Autozone, O'Reilly?

EDIT: well just found that NAPA has their own version - http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7651351_0361142439

 

[klinetime574]

I bought an OEM from CCOT if I believe. Lots of places probably carry them. But I could justify the OEM piece. The original lasted 20+ years

Looks like they have it for $56.62

http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/speedcabfjfj.html

They list all speedo cables on one page it appears.

Also I'm not saying buy this from them and only them. There are tons of options. There are a good group of guys on this forum that can get you dealer parts as well.

 

[KYFJ62]

I used an OEM cable; I think I got it on sale from coolcruisers.com. Here is a link:

http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/speedcabfjfj.html

Make sure you get the correct one....I have an FJ62 and the cable is different and more expensive than an FJ60.

Thanks for the tip on the slick stuff; I will have to get some!

 

[Alexalbatross]

I have a 76 fj40. This is my first and I am learning as I go. The instrument cluster works fine except the speedometer. Is it safe to say I just need to inspect/replace the cable?

 

[John McVicker]

I have a 76 fj40. This is my first and I am learning as I go. The instrument cluster works fine except the speedometer. Is it safe to say I just need to inspect/replace the cable?

The odds are way in your favor that a new cable will fix your problem.

Was it working when you got your 40? Maybe get under the rig and follow the speedo cable to be certain it isn't loose or disconnected. It's not likely but check it out. If it's connected there and @ the speedo, time to buy a new one.

 

[Alexalbatross]

The odds are way in your favor that a new cable will fix your problem.

Was it working when you got your 40? Maybe get under the rig and follow the speedo cable to be certain it isn't loose or disconnected. It's not likely but check it out. If it's connected there and @ the speedo, time to buy a new one.

It was not working when I got it. Yes, it's connected and I see no breaks in it. Guess it's time to buy and replace. Thanks for the response!

 

[John McVicker]

Yep.

 

[Alexalbatross]

Another thing. my 76 FJ has a 350 v8 engine in it (everything else is stock). I have been taking it around town to test it and it has stalled a few times on me. I thought it was lack of gas, but it wasn't. It happened when I tried downshifting to take a turn. The red indicator light came on as well when it stalled. It was weird. When I would try to turn it on again it wouldn't turn right away. I was getting power (battery levels read fine on the dash), and the starter worked fine. Could this be a problem with the tranny? Or a bad wire harness? It's running fine again after I let it sit for a few minutes, but I worry about taking my kids in it for longer trips until the issue is resolved. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[FishTown]

Wanted to bring this back up as I might be replacing my speedometer cable this weekend. I've already purchased the aftermarket speedo cable from CruiserCorps... Maybe should've ponied up for OEM, but I thought even if it only lasts 10 years it's worth the savings.

I'm now kind of wondering if a replacement is what I actually need... My speedo gauge works fine. It maybe moves a little bit, but barely noticeable. But the damn thing is making a screeching noise that has become unbearable. Is it possible to grease the old one and continue to use it? Should I go ahead and replace with the aftermarket unit? Any other suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance!

 

[FishTown]

I'll take a video when I leave work so y'all can share in my pain.