I have almost the same sound post 3" OME lift. On acceleration there's a similar clicking and noise is not present when coasting. I can reproduce the noise at low speed when I accelerate. Currently in the process of axle rebuild and swapping birfields. Hoping the noise goes away.
$50 Bounty: Front end clanking post lift (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DanMedeiros
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inkpot
SILVER Star
I'm guessing it is bad or loose panhard busings. Fronts torque to 130, same as radius arms. The rubber on them is so small it is really hard to see, especially the upper one, even with a good light. If I win, do I git $50 from GW too? 
- Thread starter
- #44
With a 2.5 inch is it prudent to get an adjustable panhard or can i get away with just replacing bushings
inkpot
SILVER Star
The panhard bushings press in like the radius arm bushings but the are a lot smaller. Makes it really hard to see if the rubber is damaged while still bolted into the pocket on the axle end.
I not after the bounty. But I am chasing the same nose/ clunk & I think I have narrowed it down to the control arm bushings. They are the slee caster bushing. I bent the control arm, & I believe that caused the bushing to walk, that caused the arm to in long gate the holes in the bushings/ causing the nose/ clunk. Long story short check those bushing.
Some ideas.....
Do you have a front diff guard? Panhard rod might be hitting the diff/diff guard where you can't see it. You'd be amazed how far the panhard rod can travel.
Is the weld on the steering box to the frame in good order?
Are the shocks tight? Got sliders? Are they hitting the body on body roll?
Tie rods ends, steering arms, bull bar, steering stabilizer...are the nuts all tight?
Do you have a front diff guard? Panhard rod might be hitting the diff/diff guard where you can't see it. You'd be amazed how far the panhard rod can travel.
Is the weld on the steering box to the frame in good order?
Are the shocks tight? Got sliders? Are they hitting the body on body roll?
Tie rods ends, steering arms, bull bar, steering stabilizer...are the nuts all tight?
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I was chasing a noise like this and was obsessed. I made a list.... wound up being panhard rod hitting front diff guard
This was the work in progress list.
This was the work in progress list.
- Thread starter
- #50
@9780LC Thanks for the good ideas. Shocks are tight. I'm not sure what you mean by a front diff guard. But my pumpkins aren't armored or anything.
Shocks and stabilizer are good. Sliders are tight. bumper is mounted correctly.
At this point I'm thinking I'll replace the tie rod ends and panhard bushings. If that fails I'll drive the two hours to drop my truck off at valley hybrids and let them figure it out
Shocks and stabilizer are good. Sliders are tight. bumper is mounted correctly.
At this point I'm thinking I'll replace the tie rod ends and panhard bushings. If that fails I'll drive the two hours to drop my truck off at valley hybrids and let them figure it out
It's armor. Trail gear makes a diff guard for the front pumpkin.
Here's where it was banging.
Here's where it was banging.
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richardlillard1
SILVER Star
I'm guessing it is bad or loose panhard busings. Fronts torque to 130, same as radius arms. The rubber on them is so small it is really hard to see, especially the upper one, even with a good light. If I win, do I git $50 from GW too?
Given the way a loose panhard bolt can cause ridiculous death wobble which starts around 30mph, I would guess that a panhard bushing missing enough marterial to clunk like that would cause the same thing.
- Thread starter
- #54
No death wobble yet. The truck drive really well except for that clank
A lose panhard bolt with a perfect bushing can still cause a clunk
this is gonna sound a little dangerous. I've done this before with extra caution. I've had your issue on a different vehicle. This is the way I found it.
- Chock both rear tires.
- Place floor jack near right tire on axle as to only lift right tire off ground around 2-4 inches then quickly release pressure to cycle suspension listen for clunk.
- Repeat for left tire.
- If no results lift whole front axle both tires 2-4" and repeat again.
- If no result move to rear suspension and chock both front tires. Repeat.
Will you guys do PayPal?
I had a similar no use with my 81.
My issue was elongated holes where the radius arm bolts to the diff housing.
It would make a loud clunk/crack noiseharmless turning into drive ways, crossing speed bumps, and occasionally accelerating and braking. Usually happneed when front suspension was being torqued, like crossing an off camber driveway ramp
Tightening down radius arm bolts bull**** tight helped temporarily.
If your torque wrench doesn't go to bull****, think 18" breaker bar and 280lb gorilla swinging on it hard!
I think a permanent fix on mine would have required a washer welded both sides of the RA bracket on the axle housing, and new longer bolts to eliminate the elongated holes.
So far nearly every solution offered relates to loose hardware in the suspension bushes. Costs nothing to go over every nut and bolt and torque them up.
After that, I'd be looking for cracked bushes as suggested.
- Thread starter
- #58
alright @mudgudgeon that is exactly the symptoms I have. I'll go buy a torque wrench and check them. Would another permanent solution (expensive as $#&%) be to buy the SLEE radius arms? I'm short on caster as it is and would fix that too.
Plan of action for the weekend:
1.Torque radius arms and Panhard bolts
if that fails......
2. Replace panhard, steering, and rear radius arm bushings
if that fails.........cry
Plan of action for the weekend:
1.Torque radius arms and Panhard bolts
if that fails......
2. Replace panhard, steering, and rear radius arm bushings
if that fails.........cry
If RA brackets on the axle housing have elongated holes, changing RAs won't fix it, but it would be a good time to repair the elongation
Landtank caster plates will fix the elongated holes. If you go that route I have a set I'm not using
