I did this to my LX but I used resistors. My sound is ok, at best. It tends to distort with any bass. I may try to rewrire it tomorrow with the resistors
How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mtnracer
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I just picked up a 99 and noticed throughout this thread that nobody was sub 2000 that did this mod. Do the 99 models have a sub as well? Do they have the weird dual 4 inch sub setup?
Dual 4" is standard issue for '98-'00. The process is similar, but the woofers aren't easy to track down. I replaced mine with Dayton Audio ND105-4s, but they aren't perfect replacements. I'm driving them with a Pioneer amp, so the factory amps impedance wasn't a concern, but I still had to make an adapter. They sound great to me, but I'm not an audiophile or a basshead.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Dual 4" standard for LC and LX in '98-'00?
Sorry, I meant '98-'00 LCs. Did all '98-'00 LXs have the Nakamichi system? Or would some of them have had dual 4" woofers?
I've wired up an amp to the back of my truck. Hooked an line-out converter to the output of my factory subwoofer. Hooked that up to the input of the amp & installed a small enclosure with a 12" mtx sub in it. Bass hits real hard when you inside my truck. But standing outside it sounds factory. Truck don't rattle from the bass. Anybody interested I can show you how to get bass!,
This is part of what you need for the add on amp. Buy a wiring kit from Walmart, it can be basic. You not gonna need a lot of power. Then find you a box that'll fit nicely behind the 3rd row seat. I will take pics of the amp & sub when it's daylight
Quick question for the sound wizArds on this post! At what point does it start taking a toll on your alternator or battery?
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It has been a long time since I added major amps to a system not sure how far you will have to go to start pulling more than the alt and stock batt can handle but bet it's not to much. You'll know when your headlights start dimming
I would say if you are going to take it very far spring for a dual battery system and you should be good to go and ready for overlanding electronics as well. A couple slee battery trays, a blue sea ml-acr, and odysseys and you will be set. Going to be doing that to mine soon but more for fridge, lights, radios, etc
Anywhere up to and including a quality amp at 900 watts is fine with upgraded grounds under the hood. IMHO
Add your fridge and things change i'm sure, I don't have one. I see dips into 13.4xV with a front and rear AC and headlights on. 4 gauge wire all around. 12" punch sub. (new stock battery at purchase and alternator of undetermined age) ymmv
Add your fridge and things change i'm sure, I don't have one. I see dips into 13.4xV with a front and rear AC and headlights on. 4 gauge wire all around. 12" punch sub. (new stock battery at purchase and alternator of undetermined age) ymmv
I had my amp in my truck for 4yrs now. No problem so far. Has a stock sound standing outside of the vehicle. But hits hard when you inside the vehicle. Another alternative you can use is a load capacitor that stays charged & most of the load strain comes from the cap & not the battery.
Thank you for he info!! How much does a dual battery setup like that usually run?It has been a long time since I added major amps to a system not sure how far you will have to go to start pulling more than the alt and stock batt can handle but bet it's not to much. You'll know when your headlights start dimming
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Setting up dual batteries can be as cheap as around $300 (with battery) if you just add a battery and use the least expensive relay options. If you go with dual agm batteries and a high end relay you can get up to $1000. I did one video discussing different relay options and one talking about types of batteries and pairing.
This is certainly a wise investment if you are adding lots of accessories for overlanding but might be excessive for stereo upgrades only unless they're extreme. @silverbullitt makes a great point, I had a large capacitor when I had a large stereo system back in the day and it kept things from draining things too much.
Here are the two videos, please ignore the hecklers
This is certainly a wise investment if you are adding lots of accessories for overlanding but might be excessive for stereo upgrades only unless they're extreme. @silverbullitt makes a great point, I had a large capacitor when I had a large stereo system back in the day and it kept things from draining things too much.
Here are the two videos, please ignore the hecklers
fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
Blake, did you write up the instructions on applying the new foam? I'm interested in doing this fix myself as my rear speakers/subs are buzzing like a mofo.
I just finished installing an Audiopipe 6" sub in the factory box yesterday. I replaced the head unit a while back and have Blaupunkt overdrive woofers up front and Bazooka 6.5" 2-way speakers in the rear doors. The weekend before I ran the RCA cables and the wiring for a small Kicker amp under the passenger side front seat for the new sub. I really don't want to run new speaker wires to the rear sub. What color wires are under the front seat that run from the factory amp to the rear sub box? I connected the yellow/red wires to the sub inside the box as the new sub is only a single voice coil.
My issue is that the red and yelloww wires under the front seat are smaller than those attached to the sub in the box.
The old sub was toasted a long time ago & hasn't been powered by anything since I replaced the head unit a few years ago.
This is something I've been wanting to do for a long time, I just never got around to it.
My issue is that the red and yelloww wires under the front seat are smaller than those attached to the sub in the box.
The old sub was toasted a long time ago & hasn't been powered by anything since I replaced the head unit a few years ago.
This is something I've been wanting to do for a long time, I just never got around to it.
Didn't feel like waiting or looking for the answer, so I pulled the rear panel off and ran new wires from under the passenger side seat, under the carpet along the rear door sill, then partially under the passenger side rear panel to where it meets the rear carpet split. From there it was a straight shot across the truck. All bolted back up & sounds great!
Hey guys. Thanks for the awesome write up here. Suspect foam is shot in my 2005 LC with Nav. I ordered up a new sub from Crutchfield before reading this thread in its entirety.
Think I'll return it if the foam repair goes well. I just ordered a foam kit from SimplySpeakers. They've posted up some great videos, so thought I'd support them.
Anywho, as part of my initial order, Crutchfield sent me a nice pdf which has great photos and instructions for head unit and all panel removals. I know that this information is available elsewhere on the forum, but thought it could be a reasonable addition to the knowledge base since it covers everything in a single file.
Anywho, as part of my initial order, Crutchfield sent me a nice pdf which has great photos and instructions for head unit and all panel removals. I know that this information is available elsewhere on the forum, but thought it could be a reasonable addition to the knowledge base since it covers everything in a single file.
YardPig
SILVER Star
I just finished installing an Audiopipe 6" sub in the factory box yesterday. I replaced the head unit a while back and have Blaupunkt overdrive woofers up front and Bazooka 6.5" 2-way speakers in the rear doors. The weekend before I ran the RCA cables and the wiring for a small Kicker amp under the passenger side front seat for the new sub. I really don't want to run new speaker wires to the rear sub. What color wires are under the front seat that run from the factory amp to the rear sub box? I connected the yellow/red wires to the sub inside the box as the new sub is only a single voice coil.
My issue is that the red and yelloww wires under the front seat are smaller than those attached to the sub in the box.
The old sub was toasted a long time ago & hasn't been powered by anything since I replaced the head unit a few years ago.
This is something I've been wanting to do for a long time, I just never got around to it.
Hi, do you have info on the Audiopipe subwoofer you installed or info on the install in the box, was it a bolt in affair? Thanks!
Quick question:
Both the driver's door lower speaker and the 3rd row sub are in need of a re-foaming on my '06 LC. Will the same repair kit (linked below) work for both?
Speaker Foam Edge Repair Replacement Kit, Toyota, Lexus, JBL, Levinson 6" Speakers, FSK-6bt
Seems to me that they are both about 6" and I could buy the 2 pack and it should work. But I'd love to hear some thought before I order, I'm hoping to get this buttoned up ASAP.
Both the driver's door lower speaker and the 3rd row sub are in need of a re-foaming on my '06 LC. Will the same repair kit (linked below) work for both?
Speaker Foam Edge Repair Replacement Kit, Toyota, Lexus, JBL, Levinson 6" Speakers, FSK-6bt
Seems to me that they are both about 6" and I could buy the 2 pack and it should work. But I'd love to hear some thought before I order, I'm hoping to get this buttoned up ASAP.
