First start questions. (1 Viewer)

[btbuild]

Hello
I have a 1/73 fj40 F engine that has been desmogged and rebuilt also has a New Troll hole carb. I am planning on starting up rebuilt engine this weekend. The engine is mounted on chassis without any of the wiring harness.

1. Do I have to hook up idle solinoid for start ? If so how do I do that without wiring harness?
2. What is the oil pressure range I should be looking for with breaking oil SAE 30?
3. Should I put a bit of oil in each cylinder befor start up!
4. What rpm should I run for break in and how long?

If anyone has any more input on this please advise

 

[shawnfj40]

1) Yes
2) 30-60 is nice
3) No
4) I would break it in under 50 for the first 500 miles. Or give a good 10 hours of run time before changing the oil again. I am not a believer in running a motor aat a set rpm for long periods. I mix it up and just try not to "over rev" the motor while it is breaking in.

 

[stock]

I add zinc to my oil on first start up.

 

[btbuild]

1) Yes
2) 30-60 is nice
3) No
4) I would break it in under 50 for the first 500 miles. Or give a good 10 hours of run time before changing the oil again. I am not a believer in running a motor aat a set rpm for long periods. I mix it up and just try not to "over rev" the motor while it is breaking in.

Shawn do you know how to rig up the idle solinoid without the wiring harness?

 

[whitey45]

It just needs 12 volts!

 

[btbuild]

Thanks! I will post vid of it running later.

 

[cjgoode]

You definitely do not want to run a new motor at any sort of consistent RPM's. I have heard of people messing them up by getting out on the highway and going at a consistent speed and RPM's for a long period.

 

[tlc762]

There have been threads on here that I remember reading a while back which discussed the proper method to use to break in the camshaft/lifters properly. If I remember they recommended to immediately run up the rpms to a certain level (above idle to "break in/mate the cam lobes and solid lifters). May be @65swb45 (Mark) and/or @FJ40Jim (Jim) will chime in with their sage advise on engine break in procedure.

HTH,
Will

 

[Tin basher]

This is the method I have always used for first start up spend the money on a quality break in oil that's high in zinc
Prime the engine And be prepared to run it for a min 20 min


Flat Tappet Camshaft Break-in Procedure - Engine Builder Magazine

 

[whitey45]

The idea behind the high rpm is that the oil will 'splash' more and help the cam and lifters break in and seat. Pretty sure there is no break in procedure for an f tractor engine! Low lift cam, no compression, all kidding aside you can never be too careful breaking in a fresh rebuild!

 

[btbuild]

This is the method I have always used for first start up spend the money on a quality break in oil that's high in zinc
Prime the engine And be prepared to run it for a min 20 min


Flat Tappet Camshaft Break-in Procedure - Engine Builder Magazine

Thank you for the link very informative. I am using Brad Pen start up oil. I have everything hooked up and ready to start I'm just having a hard time finding a fitting for my oil pressure gauge. I don't want to start with out it. I should have engine up and running tomorrow. I then will have peace of mind to continue with the rest of restoration. Thanks to all!!

Barrett

 

[4Cruisers]

I'm just having a hard time finding a fitting for my oil pressure gauge. I don't want to start with out it.

I was able to find what I needed on Amazon and eBay. The threads on the block should be 1/8 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper), and you can find adapters that are 1/8 BSPT male to 1/8 NPT-27 female. The Sunpro mechanical gauge I bought at AutoZone had a 1/8 NPT-27 male fitting.

 

[Tin basher]

The idea behind the high rpm is that the oil will 'splash' more and help the cam and lifters break in and seat. Pretty sure there is no break in procedure for an f tractor engine! Low lift cam, no compression, all kidding aside you can never be too careful breaking in a fresh rebuild!

m
Actually the break in procedure is the same for a flat head Ford 4banger it's to make sure the oil pressure stays high and splash for the piston skirts the oil press is even more critical to a ohv engine

 

[whitey45]

m
Actually the break in procedure is the same for a flat head Ford 4banger it's to make sure the oil pressure stays high and splash for the piston skirts the oil press is even more critical to a ohv engine

?? Cam and lifter is the most critical part of break in, not sure why you brought up a flathead? You think Henry broke in a million model a's?

 

[Tin basher]

?? Cam and lifter is the most critical part of break in, not sure why you brought up a flathead? You think Henry broke in a million model a's?

Less comp and cam profile than a f tractor motor lol

 

[Cleg]

I'll be going through the same procedure with a 2F with a new set of rings.
I had read somewhere on Mud to run the oil pump with an electric drill until oil is getting to the head.
It was described as turning the drive with the drill & a large screwdriver type shaft through the distributor hole.

 

[Rock40]

Yes, and you can either chock an old (and very large) screwdriver up in an electric drill or I "think" that you can use a GM small block primer. I have one made by Moroso, very nice.

 

[whitey45]

I removed the gear from an old dist, works great to prime the oil pump.

 

[Tin basher]

Yes absolutely prime the motor
I do it with the valve cover off and rotate motor 1/4 turn at a time and. Make sure I have oil to all rockers
(on a Chevy v8 you have to use a dist w gear removed or priming tool or it will not build press )
Not relevant to this case
Anything that will spin the oil pump drive will work

 

[btbuild]

Thanks for everyone's help on guiding me in the right direction with my first start up on my rebuild. I kind of Jerry rigged my harness so I could use the ignition switch. It worked out perfect. Just had to make sure I didn't short anything out. primed oil pump and then set dizzy in place with flywheel bb lined up on pointer making sure dizzy was completely down . I then primed carb with a little gas and she fired right up!! I was stoked. Oil pressure came up to 40 psi at idle. I adjusted idle up to about 2000rpm after about 10 min of warm up and no problems. Engine sounded great! Ran a 2000 rpm for another 10min and then started to mess with my mini truck power steering. POW went the low pressure hose and power steering fluid every where!!! My dumb ass installed the hose without cutting off the cap on the low pressure pump port. Stupid stupid stupid!!!!!!!! After two hours of cleaning all is good after a few choice words.