Dexron III or Toyota WS ATF transmission fluid. What ATF are you using? (2 Viewers)

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My understanding with atf synthitic for newer model 2006+ is not recommend as I read it here somewhere. Someone tried atf synth and had issue.

Can anyone confirm using synth atf with zero issue in 2007 lx tranny?
 
My understanding with atf synthitic for newer model 2006+ is not recommend as I read it here somewhere. Someone tried atf synth and had issue.

Can anyone confirm using synth atf with zero issue in 2007 lx tranny?

I've not read that. Would like to see what they used, at what miles and history of vehicle!

I do know of some concerns with switching form conventional oils to synthetic oils.
The concern with switching to synthetic (transmission):
1st; It clean seals and if those seal are bad (dry & cracked) or leak is plugged by gunk, they will start leaking once cleaned. (same with engine)
2nd; Gunk starts moving, plugging & fouling pressure & flow of ATF.
3rd; Fiction plates may be held together with gunk, clean and they may fall apart.

If 1st & 2nd are of a concern, then drain & fill ~3qt at a time over time is safest bet.
If 3rd is concern, well it's a bad transmission.

I use nothing but synthetic lubes when & where I can, it just a better lubricant period. The concern I have with using anything but Toyota WS is compatibility.
 
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Seem Toyota considers all Toyota ATF life time.

Seem to me if 03 has the same transmission using T-IV, then it could use T-WS as well. For that matter 04-07 could use T-IV. This should open up additional compatibility option.

I wouldn't assume they are the same transmission except for the dip stick and oil pan. Price on WS compatible ATF is not bad at all. It is not worth the risk to use T-IV ATF on factory filled WS transmission to me.
 
Yeah; after two days of reading, searching and calling Mobil One I've come to the conclusion that it's best to just stick with Toyota WS.

That said, the door plates indicate 03 & 07 have the same 5spd transmission.
 
Yeah; after two days of reading, searching and calling Mobil One I've come to the conclusion that it's best to just stick with Toyota WS.

That said, the door plates indicate 03 & 07 have the same 5spd transmission.

Our codes are not exactly the same, may be typo?

Toyota doesn't consider the transmissions are the same unless they have the same part number.
 
I use Max Life ATF and do a drain and fill at every oil change on our 06'. I get 3.75 quarts each time and pump in the new stuff in the side of the trans. The ScanGauge is used to read the correct trans temp for checking the level.
 
In my 07LC the door plate shown A/TM A030A/A750F.
I have A/TM A03A/A750F.

Typo on your @2001LC , you have an extra 0.

My 2007

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I use Max Life ATF and do a drain and fill at every oil change on our 06'. I get 3.75 quarts each time and pump in the new stuff in the side of the trans. The ScanGauge is used to read the correct trans temp for checking the level.
So you just mixed with the factory WS, interesting. How many desert miles & pulling your boat since you first started drain & fills?
Wow ton of links. One thing I do agree with in second link "no fluid is a life time fluid". The claims Toyota makes for environmental reasons is plausible.

Along the environmental line of thinking, but slightly off topic. I purchased thermostat's for my 01 & 07 at same time recently. They have different parts numbers and the 07 is ~2X the cost, yet they look identical. When asking, no one seems to know why the difference in part # or price. My neighbor (retired engineer) said: "around 2005 he was part of an initiative to reduce pollutants from metals". That you "can not tell by looking at the part, and this increased the cost of manufacturing in most cases".

Also, I learned years ago the brake fluid that come in the 100 series from the factory, can't be bought in the USA in cans. This is also do to environmental import issues.

So the environmental claims have some merit.
 
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Yeah, I'm curious what the environmental fees are and what kind of savings are associated with those.

Example, is Toyota getting charged a lump sum for the overall life of a vehicle and the impact of those fluid changes? I'm pretty sure part of the fees associated with getting fluid changed at a shop is a disposal/environmental fee.

Another read on lifetime transmission fluids.

Question Of The Day: Should Manufacturers Be Held Liable For Lifetime Fluids?
 
Valvoline Max Life indicates on the PI Sheet for Toyota
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T-IV and WS
 
I viewed your video @Ohashimi and was so glad you quickly realize the fluid was not being sucked into transmission.

Can I make a few suggestion to make this a safer (for transmission), faster and cleaner job for the 98-03 with dipstick. This is not the same procedure for the Toyota WS fluid used in the no dipstick (04-07)

  1. Drain transmission pan. Should get ~3 qts IIRC. If you raise front of vehicle you'll get a little more out, but level before proceeding. This is point fluid is first picked up (pick-up screen), so draining gets old out to start flush with fresh.
  2. Replace drain plug with new washer (gasket) torque to 15ft-lbf.
  3. Fill transmission through dipstick, with about ~3 qts. It's ok at this point to overfill a little.
  4. Disconnect return line near PS of radiator about 12" below hood. It's the top line and is last stop before returning to transmission that's accessible from above (under hood).
  5. Optional: I run a hose from the rubber return line hose that I've just disconnected, into and old qt can of ATF. This is just so dirt doesn't enter return line and fluid doesn't drip out making a mess.
  6. Attach a 10mm ID clear drain hose to 10mm OD metal nipple of return line. Run clear hose to drain bucket that you've marked with twelve 1qt hash marks (makes nice visual aid for the 12 qt's your after). I just use 1 gal plastic jug filling half way each 2 qt drain cycle, makes pouring into my oil waste container easy.
  7. Run engine for about 10 sec to get about 2 qts. (never run pan/pump dry)
  8. Repeat steps 3 and 7, six times. Holding back 1 qt on last fill through dip stick.
  9. Check ATF level it should be about 1 qt low.
  10. Reattach return hose to nipple.
  11. Add some ATF fluid so that shows about 1/2 qt low on dipstick.
  12. Run engine shifting between gears for a few minutes. Check level while engine at idle, shiftier in park. Do not top yet, just raise level to about 1/2 qt low (The cold level)
  13. Drive around until fluid at normal operating temp and recheck, and then top.
  14. Repeat every 30K miles
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Great information Thank you Very much for that write up. I will definitely use that procedure next time. I have not run the engine since doing the exchange since i am doing the alternator and radiator at the same time and have to wait for the alternator to arrive today.

Thanks again for your input. I'm sure this will help a lot pf people out.
 
Doing a quick drain and fill on my 2000. It only drained ~2 qts. Is that average? I read above that it should have drained over 3 qts but I'm not sure if they were referring to the A343F or the later gen trans. Can anybody with the A343F verify the amount they ususally drain from the pan?
 

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