No spark; new igniter, coil & distributor (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 20, 2017
Threads
1
Messages
12
Location
US
No spark after replacing coil, igniter and distributor. Have power at the positive on the coil. Cranks hard. Have fuel at the cold start injector. Fuel pump good. Crazy frustrated at this point. Any advice? Thanks.
 
What year? Is the check engine light on before you crank it?
 
If there is no check engine light, the ECU is not powered or in a "ready" state. Check your fusible links. Also, I'd look over the connections to the distributor since you've been messing with it.
 
Appreciate the info. Which fuses/relays should I check for the ECU? Have the original electrical diagram/manual but not near smart enough to follow that.
 
@jonheld @LS1FJ40 @Tools R Us

The fusible links are the 3 funky looking wires coming right off the positive battery terminal, two of them are in a little black box.
 
I would spray starting fluid into the intake and see what happens. If it lights off and idles for a few seconds your ignition is good.
 
With no CEL the ignition will not even try to fire; the ECU is not powered or ready.
 
So looks like there are two fusible links. On white wire and one black w/blue stripe. Both have 12.5V at the battery and at the fuse box. So are they good I guess?
 
^^^ THIS!!

It has a 99.6% success rate.

FWIW no CEL guarantees no start.
 
A glovebox should contain:
EFI Relay (<$10)
Set of Fusible Links (~$15)
Cheap Multi-meter
6' Heavy Jumper Wire (Battery + --> Starter Terminal)
Printed Instructions below

If there is no hope:
Cruiser Flask.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Truck No Start Troubleshooting.pdf
    243.3 KB · Views: 217
Question, Dose this chart just work with the 91 and 92 models with the 3FE and AFM, or does it work with the 93 and 94 FZJ with the AFM too?
There are many similarities, but the ECU is significantly different and there are different names/locations for connectors. Conceptually it is the same. On any 80 Series, if there's no CEL with the key in the ON position before cranking the starter, there will be no spark.
No CEL=no start.
 
Follow @jonheld 's Diagnostic procedure flow chart. This should get you going in the right direction:
http://www.sdsysdesign.com/tlc/images/Strife/3FE EFI Diag.pdf

So I have followed all the different suggestions posted above. Recap = coil, igniter, distributor all good. +12VDC at B+ on connector (understand this means EFI good). Even bought new ECU from Toyota. Just plugged in. Still no CEL and no spark. Flow chart on this post seems to say if all other good, then there is an ECU/wiring problem. Any suggestions on how to test/which wires to test for the ECU? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom