Got my power steering installed!
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (37 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Got my power steering installed!
Where
is the longer hose going? A cooler?
Got my power steering installed!
jvincig01
SILVER Star
Made this nifty stand for my doors and hatch. Found the idea here on mud somewhere. Going to roll it to the back if the garage as soon as I make room.
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
I pulled my 71 hazard switch apart and cleaned up the innards. Super simple to do and now my hazzards flash consistantly. Gotta love these FJ40's.
My 45 will have to sit outside for a few days as my 70 is going into the garage for some major surgery.
Pulled the pz motor out of my 70 to do the rear main seal, looked at the duel mass flywheel and took it apart. Think it's missing something.......
Luckily I bought a solid mass flywheel off a mate but still need to get a new clutch.
Pulled the pz motor out of my 70 to do the rear main seal, looked at the duel mass flywheel and took it apart. Think it's missing something.......
Luckily I bought a solid mass flywheel off a mate but still need to get a new clutch.
I figured out the headlight problem. Not on to the master cylinder then the top comes off so I can restore it .
My 40 is not running at the moment, because I have the gas tank disconnected. But I still need to work on it and I like to push it out of the garage. Well the problem is when I have to push it back in the garage. I have to ask the 
for help. And then of course listen and answer all the "how come... where is it..... why is it..... what are you doing.... when is it.... " blah blah blah.
So here is my solution: OTC LIFTING EYE
I mounted it in the floor. I rig my hoist in it and pull my 40 back in the garage!!
I know I'm not the first to think of this. But all of us should have one.
for help. And then of course listen and answer all the "how come... where is it..... why is it..... what are you doing.... when is it.... " blah blah blah.So here is my solution: OTC LIFTING EYE
I mounted it in the floor. I rig my hoist in it and pull my 40 back in the garage!!
I know I'm not the first to think of this. But all of us should have one.
Last edited:
I also ran out of garage space. So I decide to make storage space in the ceiling.
Did it as cheap as possible, but durable and long lasting.
Materials
2 - 2x4
3 - 1 1/2 " unistrut
3 - 3/4" unistrut
3 - 10' 1/2" all thread
2 - hog panels ( Tractor Supply)
Box - 1 1/2 " lag screws
Box - 3" deck screws
1. Ripped 2x4 in half and screwed it to every wall stud.
2. Mount 3/4" unistrut to ceiling screwing it to every ceiling joist with lag screws.
3. Mounted all thread every 3 to 4 ft
4. Hung 1 1/2 " unistrut from all thread.
5. Cut hog panel in half 24". Gave me two pieces.
I need this extra storage, it really helped!! Now I can work in my garage with out stumbling over everything.
Not taking credit for the idea, it's on the Internet. But this is the most cost effective.
Did it as cheap as possible, but durable and long lasting.
Materials
2 - 2x4
3 - 1 1/2 " unistrut
3 - 3/4" unistrut
3 - 10' 1/2" all thread
2 - hog panels ( Tractor Supply)
Box - 1 1/2 " lag screws
Box - 3" deck screws
1. Ripped 2x4 in half and screwed it to every wall stud.
2. Mount 3/4" unistrut to ceiling screwing it to every ceiling joist with lag screws.
3. Mounted all thread every 3 to 4 ft
4. Hung 1 1/2 " unistrut from all thread.
5. Cut hog panel in half 24". Gave me two pieces.
I need this extra storage, it really helped!! Now I can work in my garage with out stumbling over everything.
Not taking credit for the idea, it's on the Internet. But this is the most cost effective.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I was thinking of something similar. The front of one side of my garage has a cast-in-place concrete footer to support the dining room floor joists, and there's a crawl space underneath the dining room easily accessible from the full basement under the rest of the house. I was thinking of drilling horizontally through the footer, running a large eyebolt through the hole, and installing a large plate, washer, and nut on the back. That way I can attach a snatch block to the eyebolt and winch my '86 FJ60 project vehicle into the garage using the Warn winch on my '76 FJ40 parked off to the side in the driveway.My 40 is not running at the moment, because I have the gas tank disconnected. But I still need to work on it and I like to push it out of the garage. Well the problem is when I have to push it back in the garage. I have to ask the
So here is my solution: OTC LIFTING EYE
I mounted it in the floor. I rig my hoist in it and pull my 40 back in the garage!!
I know I'm not the first to think of this. But all of us should have one.
View attachment 1423752 View attachment 1423753 View attachment 1423754
Yeah. I've read some people get by fine without it, but for $20 for the kit I figured it couldn't hurt anything. Also, I kept the narrow pulley. I used a utility belt for lawnmowers and such. Belt 4L490. Fits the pump pulley and the crank pulley no problem. It doesn't fall all the way down to the bottom and grips the sides of the pulley just fine.
sterling
SILVER Star
Rust-Ole um topside paint after 3 coats.
Thanks to @imyahucklbrry for the help with questions and recomendations.
After 3 coats,the brush will fill the pinholes in the fiberglass better better than the roller.
For the money,well worth the effort.
Get some.
Thanks to @imyahucklbrry for the help with questions and recomendations.
After 3 coats,the brush will fill the pinholes in the fiberglass better better than the roller.
For the money,well worth the effort.
Get some.
Took the truck out for a quick spin while the roads were dry from our latest snow storm.
Now, on to finishing the refurb of my hard top.
Cool man, I just did something similar to my hard top. Rolled on some DuraBak liner, and it looks great. Now, just to finishing sanding, priming, and painting the rain gutter, and windshield cap. Then, it'll be a riveting party!
Lots of good posts on restoring your hard top: what are your plans?I figured out the headlight problem. Not on to the master cylinder then the top comes off so I can restore it .
... and of course yours looks better than mine!
Finally! Got the rear tank installed. A friend came over and helped me on what should have been a 30 min job. Worked 3 hrs yesterday and 2 hrs today. Everything that could go wrong, went wrong.
I'd previously drilled the holes in the skid plate and the rear frame and test fit the skid plate. All was OK.
We used my atv lift to raise the assembly and start to bolt it up. The front hanger bolts were too short. Double checked the destructions. On one page in two places it says the bolts are 7". The next page says 6" for the same bolts. I measured the ones sent with the tank...5 1/2". Off to the store. The only ones available were 6" so I bought them. Raised the tank again, they fit.
Tried to install the two bolts at the rear with the provided spring nuts. Too short. Bought 1 1/2" and 2" bolts. The bolts would not start no matter what we did. We lowered and raised that tank about ten times trying different things. Had to enlarge the skid plate and frame holes a couple of times. Anyway, by putting the bolts in from the top I found the problem. When installed on the frame the nut portion would tilt and was no longer in line with the other side. I used a carbide burr to open up the non threaded part for more clearance.
Now I had an unsightly 3/4" gap between the skid plate and the frame. I found a piece of scrap T channel, drilled holes and painted it black.
If I had realized the problem with the spring nuts, I would have tack welded a couple of nuts on the frame or used some good jack nuts. It would have save a lot of grief.
I'd previously drilled the holes in the skid plate and the rear frame and test fit the skid plate. All was OK.
We used my atv lift to raise the assembly and start to bolt it up. The front hanger bolts were too short. Double checked the destructions. On one page in two places it says the bolts are 7". The next page says 6" for the same bolts. I measured the ones sent with the tank...5 1/2". Off to the store. The only ones available were 6" so I bought them. Raised the tank again, they fit.
Tried to install the two bolts at the rear with the provided spring nuts. Too short. Bought 1 1/2" and 2" bolts. The bolts would not start no matter what we did. We lowered and raised that tank about ten times trying different things. Had to enlarge the skid plate and frame holes a couple of times. Anyway, by putting the bolts in from the top I found the problem. When installed on the frame the nut portion would tilt and was no longer in line with the other side. I used a carbide burr to open up the non threaded part for more clearance.
Now I had an unsightly 3/4" gap between the skid plate and the frame. I found a piece of scrap T channel, drilled holes and painted it black.
If I had realized the problem with the spring nuts, I would have tack welded a couple of nuts on the frame or used some good jack nuts. It would have save a lot of grief.
Prepping hardtop parts...............waiting on more weatherstrip
workingdog
GOLD Star
I finally got all the old rotary switches replaces with things I can actually operate - and got rid of the ignition key as well.
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