DEPO Lights with a Slee Harness (1 Viewer)

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Please tell us you're using legit fuses and not cheap knockoffs as they've been known to cause cars to burn to the ground.

Normally 85 and 86 don't matter polarity wise, which way the current runs, UNLESS they have a tamping diode in the coil, in which case I think you do since you're blowing fuses and seeing 1v where you should be seeing 12v on the output side.
check this link out, I think it will sort things out in your thinking.
Relay Basics

Wow, that's scary! Some of them were holding until 85 amps... On a 10 amp fuse:eek:
 
Pep Boys. Legit stuff.
Good, I only use littlefuse brand now, went thru the cruiser when I first got it and found 2 that were Chinese, on rear heater fan, which I had already pulled, and the other for radio.
Did you check the relay to make sure you're giving 85 and 86 the correct polarity?

Wow, that's scary! Some of them were holding until 85 amps... On a 10 amp fuse:eek:

It is, somewhere on the web is a guy who burnt his rat rod to the ground because of these, supposedly they've all been pulled from shelves but the amount of "look alike" littlefuses out there is unreal.

As a side note ROCK AUTO has a crap ton of genuine littlefuses on clearance right now, I spent like 14 bucks and have a lifetime supply now
Alternatively you can use the RSS feed to keep an eye on stuff as well
http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1276691&m=wc&l=en#

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I did. Documented on the previous page. Now everything is out. No more relays.

I would be so pissed if I had everything done correctly, but able to see the difference in the light pattern.
 
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Just be glad they are half the price of the equivalent TRS kit. Now, for mounting, you can certainly attempt using the included threaded body, but we ran into clearance issues between the lens of the projector and lens of the headlight. So we ended up just boring a 2" hole in the headlight and mounting with KwikSteel. Very easy this way! There's a generic guide out there that recommends doing it the exact same way.

Well, I installed a DDM D2S V2 Projector this w-end... I was able to get the projector to seat deeper by installing the silicone gasket after I put the projector and used the threaded nut. I thought it was going to give me enough clearance but after I put everything together I am about 1 mm too tall !!! urrgg.. the projector is hitting the glass and wont let me adjust up.

I have read many people installing these without issue ? also is the moritomo one a little smaller ?
 
I had the same problem with the end of my d2s projector contacting the inside of the depo lens, these are morimoto projectors. I ended up dremeling out the inside for clearance. The improvement in light output is worth it.

For some reason I keep getting condensation inside my driver side light.. that's my next task.
 
Thanks for the d
I had the same problem with the end of my d2s projector contacting the inside of the depo lens, these are morimoto projectors. I ended up dremeling out the inside for clearance. The improvement in light output is worth it.

For some reason I keep getting condensation inside my driver side light.. that's my next task.
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Thanks for the feedback ! makes me feel better that I am not the only one :) and that morimoto is the same issue

When you dremeled it out , did you loose the ability to use the H4 adapter and nut on the projector ? even though its been done I don't like the glue method, and also it would be hard to level it right

I am going to have to open it again, which now that I have done it 3 times (one for each side and one screw up) it should be smooth ! LOL
 
Thanks for the d
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Thanks for the feedback ! makes me feel better that I am not the only one :) and that morimoto is the same issue

When you dremeled it out , did you loose the ability to use the H4 adapter and nut on the projector ? even though its been done I don't like the glue method, and also it would be hard to level it right

I am going to have to open it again, which now that I have done it 3 times (one for each side and one screw up) it should be smooth ! LOL

I was able to use the adapter nut, it helps keep it aligned, but I also used JB Weld cause dremmling out the inside reduced the surface area enough for me to be concerned about it knocking loose.
 
great ! thanks for the feedback @Blondie
 
Yup. I'm just gonna say it again, the difference in output with the d2s projectors is hard to believe, you won't be disappointed.
 
Well, I installed a DDM D2S V2 Projector this w-end... I was able to get the projector to seat deeper by installing the silicone gasket after I put the projector and used the threaded nut. I thought it was going to give me enough clearance but after I put everything together I am about 1 mm too tall !!! urrgg.. the projector is hitting the glass and wont let me adjust up.

I have read many people installing these without issue ? also is the moritomo one a little smaller ?
We used a 2" hole saw right through the back of the housing and mounted with Kwik steel. Super easy, and durable. Gives you miles of clearance and looks much more professional. I've done about nine conversions so far, and prefer this method to the nut and bolt method.
 
@absalom do you have some pictures you can post ? Also how do you make sure they are leveled when you apply the glue ?

Thanks !
 
I attach the housings to the truck, and carefully drive to the nearest flat parking lot. Then, I roll up my KwikSteel into blobs, affix it to the back of the housing, then smoosh the projector into the hole; sandwiching the blob against the housing.

I then line up against the wall while the blob is still wet and hold it into position while it drys. Repeat with the other side and voila!

 
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You could run both sides from one relay but you'll need more wire, and the cost savings won't be much, and i wouldn't do it if there were a possibility of using the (not street legal) H4 bulbs with a 100w high beam. Because 200w at 14v is far closer to the 30A rating than i want to be.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't 200w/14V=14A? [W=VxI]
 
You ever get this figured out @Dragos80 ? I started into it and the relay diagram on page one didn't make sense so I started probing around. I'm not sure if 85 and 86 are supposed to be backwards like that? Usually 86 is the trigger and 85 is the ground. Also, my high beam wires are both 12+ with the highs off. When you switch the highs on, one of the wires go to ground and the other stays 12+. Very weird setup, I'm not sure how you'd make it work when both wires are like this.
 
I think part of the issue is the wiring was set up for use with the Slee harn. What's $48...it only money:flipoff2:

It took me a long time to get it set up myself. I purchased the colored wires just as the OP did and tried to get the same exact relays. I printed up all the diagrams and made notes on the paper, labeled all the wires, switched all the pins on the relays so the colors corresponded to the way he had it set up. I'm good at copying, however, it was a major pain but in the end well worth the effort, the extra light is outstanding.
 

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