Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe (1 Viewer)

[gregnash]

Hey @Cruiser Jimmy thanks for the update. Yeah it seems that is pretty standard for the trucks one they are weighted down and have some miles on them. Since I just figured out that my ECM wasn't plugged in and that could possibly be a culprit I am going to restart my calcs. I literally have had everything from a tank that runs me about 125miles to a tank that runs me my old average of 180+ miles. All of that within the same driving specs (mainly 90% city, 10%highway.

I have pretty much come to terms with the fact that I will never really avg. any better than 10-12mpg, when I start seeing 5-8mpg I start wondering what is going on.

 

[Output Shaft]

10-12 at altitude with an older engine with bigger tires & hills & bolted on extra weight is normal.

 

[gregnash]

How's about a truck at altitude (4650') with bigger tires (31s) and no extra weight but a small lift, hitch and bike rack?!

 

[Output Shaft]

I def notice a difference in power when my truck is at sea level (more power) vs 4000 ft & higher (less power). Less oxygen at altitude.
Less power definitely is going to yield lower mpg

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Last fill-up 14.72mpg at 6200' elevation.

J

 

[Output Shaft]

Buzz kill

 

[gregnash]

Last fill-up 14.72mpg at 6200' elevation.

J

Quiet you!!! No one wants to hear your shenanigans!

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Quiet you!!! No one wants to hear your shenanigans!

AND.... All stock with fully operational smog equipment and 30s..

@Output Shaft is correct. I remember taking Marley from here to Carthage, TX and it felt like I was driving a race car in comparison. BUT, with the new found power came LOWER mpg's due to a heavy foot. So, I threw in the H55F and new Jim C carb, fine tuned some things and was back in the 13.8-15.7 range.

J

 

[gregnash]

AND.... All stock with fully operational smog equipment and 30s..

@Output Shaft is correct. I remember taking Marley from here to Carthage, TX and it felt like I was driving a race car in comparison. BUT, with the new found power came LOWER mpg's due to a heavy foot. So, I threw in the H55F and new Jim C carb, fine tuned some things and was back in the 13.8-15.7 range.

J

See now you are just showing off! Definitely have to say that with the computer hooked up she seems to have a bit more pep. Ran the tank all the way down (well until it was consistently reading at the E line) and filled her up yesterday. Took 16.537gallons to fill her up and at that point the mpgs for that tank were rated at 7.1mpg. Looks like I still got some tweaking to do.

 

[gregnash]

Yeah definitely have something going on as I have driven a little over 50 miles since I filled up on Thursday, again mostly city driving, and my gauge is showing just a hair over half a tank. I did take a look today, since yesterday was spent in contract negotiations and a walk-thru of a new salon for my wife and a couple co-workers, and there really isn't an easy way of getting the secondary off the carb while it is still attached to the manifold. If I didn't have to worry about the little c-clip that attaches it to the linkage I would be good but that section is kind of buried.

So if next weekend is a little slower and the weather is nice I may pull the carb and do the secondary spring swap to see if I can get it working and see if that helps issues.

Not really this weekend but this week I finally got around to running the wiring for the butt warmers. Soooooooo nice to have those especially since it has gotten cold with the new storm system coming in, was all of 22* when I went out on Friday morning so by the time the truck was warmed up for work and I had the butt warmers going the entire time, the seat was nice and toasty.
Then yesterday the wife and I went and wheeled a little bit just to see what the hills were looking like with all the rain we have been getting. Didn't get very far before trails were washed out enough that I didn't want to attempt without knowing that I could easily get ahold of someone for a recovery. At one point she even commented and said that she thought the new PT Cruiser seats and butt warmers were nicer than her leather seats in her '11 4Runner SR5!!!

Here is switch location for the seats, these are powered by the glove box light so will only come on when lights are one.
Took some very basic measurements from top of the SmittyBilt console then drilled, ended up being a 3/4" hole that is slightly egged out to fit the switch, then same in the very bottom so wire can route underneath.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Then pulled the passenger seat to pull up the carpet and ran all the wiring under the carpet and along the seat mounting line. From there ran it along the door sill where the plastic loom guide is then up to underneath the glove box. From there I installed a Blue Seas dual bus bar (10 mounts total) under the glove box and ran a single power line to power the one side (labeled ILLUM since it is running off the glovebox light). Power for the butt warmers is then routed to two screws there.

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

The box is tucked up and out of the way nicely along with all the lines.

 

[gregnash]

Referencing for work to be done in coming weeks.
Bodywork advice, rear hatch perimeter seal

Ok to the metal working guys out there... (specifically @reevesci) I am planning on grabbing some steel on Friday to hopefully knock this project out this weekend. That rear lip is one of my main sources of moisture in the rear which is causing condensation in the rear of the truck pretty much all the time (along with the leaking windshield gasket and various rust holes... lol). I have quickly checked a couple of the "easy" places to grab steel, HD/Lowe's/Tractor Supply/CAL Ranch, and have only been able to 1/2" x 1/8" steel L-bracket available. There is one steel supply place here in town but it is at the opposite side of town and which makes it hard to get there during their normal business hours. With that said, would there be a major difference with the perimeter seal if I went with 1/2" over 5/8"?

 

[cruisermatt]

Ok to the metal working guys out there... (specifically @reevesci) I am planning on grabbing some steel on Friday to hopefully knock this project out this weekend. That rear lip is one of my main sources of moisture in the rear which is causing condensation in the rear of the truck pretty much all the time (along with the leaking windshield gasket and various rust holes... lol). I have quickly checked a couple of the "easy" places to grab steel, HD/Lowe's/Tractor Supply/CAL Ranch, and have only been able to 1/2" x 1/8" steel L-bracket available. There is one steel supply place here in town but it is at the opposite side of town and which makes it hard to get there during their normal business hours. With that said, would there be a major difference with the perimeter seal if I went with 1/2" over 5/8"?

5/8 -1/2 = 1/8

 

[gregnash]

5/8 -1/2 = 1/8

Smartass....

 

[albert110]

I can't say for sure, but I would guess that the width of the strip is less important than the gauge of the metal. It seemed to me like the weatherstripping was made to fit on a range of thicknesses and i was on the very edge of it by going with 20 gauge. My guess would be that you could sacrifice the width of that strip if you chose a slightly thicker piece.

 

[gregnash]

Well I have developed a new issue over the last couple days and not really sure what is going on.
The other day while on the freeway I notice that I would suddenly get a random "pop" on deceleration. At first I thought it was a rock breaking loose from the rear tires but then it started happening a little more. The pop was small enough and random enough that I did not think it was anything other than a rock at first.

Then last night was I was running up to our family cabin to meet the wife I noticed it started to happen more. Then I noticed it was happening on deceleration when I would let my foot completely off the pedal and start to coast. It didn't always happen and again was just a random, small pop that sounded more like a rock getting let loose. Finally I had a large enough one that I felt it in the seat (just slightly) and at that point I knew I was backfiring.

So looking at some REALLY old threads it seems like it could be a couple things. Problem I am having is that this did not happen before the recent change from connecting the ECM back up and no longer grounding the carb. Mind you I have a CCOT ICS (Chicom) so I know the @FJ40Jim has expressed some concerns about it properly regulating fuel. I do idle a bit high once the engine is warmed up, anywhere from 800rpm to 1k rpm, so wondering if this could be partially because of timing being a bit screwy??

Thoughts?

 

[Output Shaft]

The PO may have disconnected the emissions computer because of this.

Check "Deceleration Fuel Cut" section in the emissions FSM. All the steps.
You're getting a backfire likely because a component in that system isn't working properly. Also when the timing is set too retarded you can get backfires too.

I've gotten a few whoppers (gunshots) with my recurved dissy and functional decel fuel cut when the timing was set 5° BTDC on light throttle deceleration.

Backfiring & afterburning stopped once timing was set to 7° BTDC (timing mark).

 

[gregnash]

@Output Shaft Yeah I have done some testing as per the manual when I first thought that the ECM was dead. The vacuum switch is working, ICS is working, ignitor and everything seems to be working properly. I haven't double-checked the vacuum lines to see that they were routed properly but I had marked everything when I first took it apart last year after the head rebuild.

I believe that timing is currently set at about 10-12* but will have to double-check tonight when I get home. Other option is that I do have that extra ECM so I could always pull the ECM and replace with the new (to me) one that I have. When I first bought the truck she did backfire and diesel pretty badly (with some whoppers like you said) and was able to resolve that with timing, new components and a tune-up after I started going through everything, but that has been about 3 1/2 yrs now. So a bit strange that it would suddenly happen.

Only changes recently was the reconnecting of the ICS (Chicom) to connect properly (no longer grounded to the carb body), reconnecting the ECM (was previously disconnected for one reason or another) and a new fuel filter. Other thing to keep in mind is that I am at 4650' and for the most part it does not backfire on decal (has only once or twice). However, last night going to the cabin I crested up over 8k' and then came back down so wondering if the HAC/HIC may be having issues and possibly contributing?

 

[Output Shaft]

I think if you're always at 4650 ft altitude & above, the HAC valve stays in the high altitude position all the time. You've got to drop to below 2600 feet or so for it to turn off (or at least that's what the FSM states).

 

[gregnash]

Ok thanks for the info output.
Unfortunate part is that spending is going to have to be at a very minimum for the next few months... Wife and a couple of her co-workers just purchased a new salon so we got that going on and with tax season here we are going to end up owing double digits yet again... GOT TO LOVE how uncle sam taxes small businesses out the ying-yang. But it is what it is.

Oh and I think I may have found that my secondary is actually binding on something which is why the diaphragm isn't engaging. Hoping to get some time this weekend to be able to pull the carb off and ensure that the linkage is all setup properly and not binding like I think is happening. Funny thing is she has plenty of power through all of this and is running quite well (from what I can tell). So while thoughts of a V8 swap or TBI to the 2F dance in my head I still love this thing for what she is and can't wait for some warmer weather and more time to keep fixing rust!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Did you see my bent kick plate? It got you thinking huh?
And congrats on a new business! Here's to the next 5 year breakin period!