Markuson
SILVER Star
DROOL
50,000+ miles on Icons (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Willy beamin
- Start date
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DROOL
Markuson
SILVER Star
Here's how much space is now available for travel with the new springs actually supporting my vehicles weight. It does not sag currently, in a month I'll see if that's holding true
- Thread starter
- #43
You crack me up man. Funny stuff
- Thread starter
- #45
Sorry for the delay - busy weekendAm curious to see a pic of the CVs/angles at your suspension height. Thanks in advance
Driver side first pic and then passenger side pic
Tell me what you think
Thanks
^ thank you! In the 100 world your CV angles would be a longevity/durability issue for me (been there done that with nearing 190k miles I've put on mine). This is why I went with a body lift and would want the same if we decide to move into the 200 world.
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
@Willy beamin My shocks are back with Icon this week. Hoping to get them back in next week. I was at 24.5" in the front, pretty close to your 25". I'll post a pick for comparison of driveline angles. I have a diff drop kit also, so the extra width should be the only real difference.
Those CVs look to be pretty angled. Would hate to see them at full droop.
Those CVs look to be pretty angled. Would hate to see them at full droop.
- Thread starter
- #48
Should have gone with 37's is what you're telling me? lol
- Thread starter
- #49
I have been keeping in touch with RCV Performance and they have in the works an OE replacement front axles that will help (strength and angles) for those in my current spot.
- Thread starter
- #50
I will say that currently my front height is 1" higher than what I want it to be but I'm also waiting 30 days or so to see if this spring will sag or not. If it does not sag then I'll back it down another 1" or so which should help the angle.
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
I would watch the cv boots for wear, and definitely be mindful of any new noises coming from the axle shafts due to the angles they are running at. Probably one of the better benefits of doing the tundra swap was decreasing the angles of the CV joints.
I picked up stock tundra shocks to run while my icons are off. They are the same length as the LC stockers, just smaller piston and shorter heavier spring. They were missing the top plate to mount to the truck, so I wound up putting the stock LC shocks on.
To my surprise, the LC shocks fit the tundra lower arms.
Having Icon swap to heavier springs, and change the valving; I wonder if you wanted to head down the dark path of tundra arms, would the coilovers work, with a different lower bushing.
I picked up stock tundra shocks to run while my icons are off. They are the same length as the LC stockers, just smaller piston and shorter heavier spring. They were missing the top plate to mount to the truck, so I wound up putting the stock LC shocks on.
To my surprise, the LC shocks fit the tundra lower arms.
Having Icon swap to heavier springs, and change the valving; I wonder if you wanted to head down the dark path of tundra arms, would the coilovers work, with a different lower bushing.
- Thread starter
- #52
@TexAZ - not right now because I just dropped $$$$ on 5 - 12.60 width tires and those along with my RW wheels would not tuck in the wheel wells if I utilize the tundra LCA / and axles. The added 1 1/2" of length on either side would not agree with the position of the fenders. I'm not in the mindset to roll any fenders right now either - lol I'll just wait, monitor and see what happens with these springs first - thanks man
I understand RCV has a good reputation for solid axles but the project I was involved with RCV on the prototype process for UZJ100 front CV axle assemblies was a disaster; can't tell you how many hours I had in that project without pay or compensation after they pulled the plug.
I hope they get it right for the 200 including an OEM equivalent CV inner knuckle seal and at least the same degree articulation as OEM and precise fitment; but based upon my interaction with them I wouldn't be holding my breath.
FWIW I have had zero issues with OEM Toyota cv axle assemblies on my UZJ100 once I adjusted the suspension to be within a proper and realistic angle for CVs. This also has paid dividends for all things steering rack & pinion system performance and durability.
- Thread starter
- #54
well that's good to know - sucks to hear about your dealings. The RCV rep I spoke with mentioned they'd roll out the FJ and Taco's units first and then move to the Tundra and LC200's. We'll just have to watch and learn from those units released first as to whether they have figured it out and it works well or not. thanks for sharing that info
Atwalz
Civil Engineer
I spoke to Dylan last week to do similar valving as your rig. Then he explained the spring rates to me. Both Icon coilover for Tundra and LC are 600# spring rate. Spring they used on your rig are Eibach 700#. I am going with 700# spring rate in anticipation of added weight in front.
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- Thread starter
- #56
That would explain the difference is the color I mentioned in an earlier post. Icon has their springs blacked out with their shield logos embossed in white on them. My new springs came silver in color and in an Eibach box, no Icon badging. I was aware that Icon has a contract with Eibach to private label their springs for them.
Hope you enjoy it as much as I have so far. The additional support up front is extremely noticeable and I feel as though it was well worth the learning experience. You guys can send me bottles of alcohol as gifts of appreciation for my exploratory $$$$ efforts - lol
Hope you enjoy it as much as I have so far. The additional support up front is extremely noticeable and I feel as though it was well worth the learning experience. You guys can send me bottles of alcohol as gifts of appreciation for my exploratory $$$$ efforts - lol
I had an Icon stage 5 suspension system (fully adjustable Coil overs) put on my 2016 Chevy Colorado last week.
It has settled in nicely, the ride height has come down about an inch from where it was when I picked it up last Thursday and the ride quality continues to improve the more I drive it.
It gets an alignment later this week. I am glad I didn't have them align it on the first days since it changed quite a bit in that first 100 miles.
I have sort of general question about the Icon suspension systems like this.
I knew several of you fellow Cruiser owners on here had a lot of expertise with them, and thought I would ask some of you few question on what is what.
I am at about 4 days in and have about 300 mile on the truck so far. I am starting to hear some creaking and squeaking coming from the front end. Sunday on my return trip from OKLA, about 250 miles into the new suspension setup, I had started to notice a metallic squeak intermittently from the front end. By the time I had made it home, it was getting more consistent and I noticed once at home, I had noticed that the suspension was creaking and squeaking. You can rock the truck side to side and hear the springs creaking. Is this just a sign everything needs to be re-torqued or is there likely something else going on. Or are these noises normal for a suspension like this?
Also I was reading through the instructions and saw the final step was to re-torque everything after 100 miles, the shop doing the work said to bring it back after 500 miles for this procedure. The instructions also mention to have it re-torqued periodically after that. What are your thoughts on what periodically means?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
It has settled in nicely, the ride height has come down about an inch from where it was when I picked it up last Thursday and the ride quality continues to improve the more I drive it.
It gets an alignment later this week. I am glad I didn't have them align it on the first days since it changed quite a bit in that first 100 miles.
I have sort of general question about the Icon suspension systems like this.
I knew several of you fellow Cruiser owners on here had a lot of expertise with them, and thought I would ask some of you few question on what is what.
I am at about 4 days in and have about 300 mile on the truck so far. I am starting to hear some creaking and squeaking coming from the front end. Sunday on my return trip from OKLA, about 250 miles into the new suspension setup, I had started to notice a metallic squeak intermittently from the front end. By the time I had made it home, it was getting more consistent and I noticed once at home, I had noticed that the suspension was creaking and squeaking. You can rock the truck side to side and hear the springs creaking. Is this just a sign everything needs to be re-torqued or is there likely something else going on. Or are these noises normal for a suspension like this?
Also I was reading through the instructions and saw the final step was to re-torque everything after 100 miles, the shop doing the work said to bring it back after 500 miles for this procedure. The instructions also mention to have it re-torqued periodically after that. What are your thoughts on what periodically means?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
- Thread starter
- #58
Hey congrats on the new system!I had an Icon stage 5 suspension system (fully adjustable Coil overs) put on my 2016 Chevy Colorado last week.
It has settled in nicely, the ride height has come down about an inch from where it was when I picked it up last Thursday and the ride quality continues to improve the more I drive it.
It gets an alignment later this week. I am glad I didn't have them align it on the first days since it changed quite a bit in that first 100 miles.
I have sort of general question about the Icon suspension systems like this.
I knew several of you fellow Cruiser owners on here had a lot of expertise with them, and thought I would ask some of you few question on what is what.
I am at about 4 days in and have about 300 mile on the truck so far. I am starting to hear some creaking and squeaking coming from the front end. Sunday on my return trip from OKLA, about 250 miles into the new suspension setup, I had started to notice a metallic squeak intermittently from the front end. By the time I had made it home, it was getting more consistent and I noticed once at home, I had noticed that the suspension was creaking and squeaking. You can rock the truck side to side and hear the springs creaking. Is this just a sign everything needs to be re-torqued or is there likely something else going on. Or are these noises normal for a suspension like this?
Also I was reading through the instructions and saw the final step was to re-torque everything after 100 miles, the shop doing the work said to bring it back after 500 miles for this procedure. The instructions also mention to have it re-torqued periodically after that. What are your thoughts on what periodically means?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
My SPC UCA's make some noise until I lube them up but not the Icons. Check your shock tower bolts and make sure those are tight - the ones on top of your coilovers. When I first installed these Icons those worked loose a bit. I think its smart to re-torque any bolt that was touched during the installations process. hope you figure it out so you can enjoy your purchase - its no fun driving down the road trying to listen for noises.
- Thread starter
- #59
Small update - The new 700 lbs. front springs have settled over the last 27 days, close to a half inch. I have an appointment scheduled for this Thursday to have my alignment checked and adjusted if needed, check my hardware / re-torque and lower the front end about 1/2" - 1" and that allows some relief to the front CV's.
I will say these 700 lbs front springs have made all the difference in how MY truck travels and responds - much tighter, giving me more confidence in what has been done thus far and that the proper vehicle support is there. @cc1999 Once you finish building your Colorado and you hit the mileage mark to rebuild those Icons make notes of what you think needs to be addressed, if anything, weigh your rig and call that info into Icon. I cannot begin to explain what a total different feeling my LC has now.
So what's next for my truck: After the front end adjustments (lowering it) have been made and the alignment has been check or if needs to be adjusted I will then be trying to match up to the overalll track width, via custom cut spacers, I had with the wider (35x12.5x17 trail grapplers - which really measured 13.19 in width). Truth is these skinnier STT PROS, which is about 1/2"+ in width difference are sucked into my wheel wells. My reason for utilizing the spacers will be two fold, The rear axle is vertically static in the lift gains. The IFS front however has gone inward a bit and I want the tires to come back out away from my UCA's and I want ALL the tires to be flush with the wheel wells. In order to accomplish that I'll go through motorsport-tech.com for their hub centric to vehicle and wheel centric to wheel - spacers. Nothing huge like the spider traxs 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" offerings. We're just talking 1/2" maybe 3/4" wont really know until we take a post STT PRO measurement and compare it to the pre NTG measurement. The previous width fitment worked well with the KDSS replacement bracket / tire combo with minimal rub at full articulation so I want that back and nothing more.
I'll post up what we find out and how it goes or doesn't. If anyone has removed and replaced their wheels studs were they easy to get out or was that a press out deal? I have yet to look but I know I'll be going with a longer length than OE wheel stud to go with the spacers.
One last thing to note - the STT PROS are lighter, I can feel it in the gas pedal / seat of the pants. They have a nice hum to them and for all that I can remember these are not as loud as the trail grapplers - that's my opinion.
thanks
I will say these 700 lbs front springs have made all the difference in how MY truck travels and responds - much tighter, giving me more confidence in what has been done thus far and that the proper vehicle support is there. @cc1999 Once you finish building your Colorado and you hit the mileage mark to rebuild those Icons make notes of what you think needs to be addressed, if anything, weigh your rig and call that info into Icon. I cannot begin to explain what a total different feeling my LC has now.
So what's next for my truck: After the front end adjustments (lowering it) have been made and the alignment has been check or if needs to be adjusted I will then be trying to match up to the overalll track width, via custom cut spacers, I had with the wider (35x12.5x17 trail grapplers - which really measured 13.19 in width). Truth is these skinnier STT PROS, which is about 1/2"+ in width difference are sucked into my wheel wells. My reason for utilizing the spacers will be two fold, The rear axle is vertically static in the lift gains. The IFS front however has gone inward a bit and I want the tires to come back out away from my UCA's and I want ALL the tires to be flush with the wheel wells. In order to accomplish that I'll go through motorsport-tech.com for their hub centric to vehicle and wheel centric to wheel - spacers. Nothing huge like the spider traxs 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" offerings. We're just talking 1/2" maybe 3/4" wont really know until we take a post STT PRO measurement and compare it to the pre NTG measurement. The previous width fitment worked well with the KDSS replacement bracket / tire combo with minimal rub at full articulation so I want that back and nothing more.
I'll post up what we find out and how it goes or doesn't. If anyone has removed and replaced their wheels studs were they easy to get out or was that a press out deal? I have yet to look but I know I'll be going with a longer length than OE wheel stud to go with the spacers.
One last thing to note - the STT PROS are lighter, I can feel it in the gas pedal / seat of the pants. They have a nice hum to them and for all that I can remember these are not as loud as the trail grapplers - that's my opinion.
thanks
Sounds like you are really getting that setup dialed in man! I did the wheel studs on my 100 series in my front yard with just basic tools, should be just as easy on the 200?!?!
