Carb idenitification and help adjusting (1 Viewer)

[cjgoode]

Yes I am back to trying to get my 1962 running and drivable now that some good usable tires came to me.

Again this is a 1962, I think it has a 1971 drive train, and who knows what year this carb is from, hope people here can tell me. It had a tag when I bought it, I did rebuild the carb with a kit based on that tag, but that was a long time ago now and the tag is gone.

It starts with the choke out, it idles a little rough and if I push the choke 100% in it dies. Give it a little gas and it sounds real good, so it is just idle seems to be the issue. I installed the actual gas tank, filled it with fresh ethanol free gas. Fuel level in the carb window is a little in the high side. I have a fuel filter before the pump and another before the carb. So when I open it up to adjust the float wanted to make sure everything else was handled and correct. I assume it only has on adjustment screw/needle valve. Is this fast, idle or both and what is a good way to set it to start. Screw in and how many turns back out. (1) in the photos. I do not have the money to send it out, so it is me or no one.

And are these correct, mainly 3. I see no where else to connect it.
And (2) in the photo goes to the PCV valve.
and (3) in the photo, red line goes to the distributor.

If you see anything else in the pics that looks off let me know. I have the choke cable attached but not the throttle cable yet.

I am getting an error uploading the photos, will try again

 

[cjgoode]

 

[Pin_Head]

It is an early 70s carb, so 71 sounds right.
The fuel level is probably not the problem, so don't worry about this yet.
Check for vacuum leaks and proper operation of the idle fuel cut off solenoid. #1 is the idle mixture screw. You can try turning it in and out a little bit. The vacuum connections appear to be correct.

 

[cjgoode]

Thanks, the idle fuel cut off solenoid is working fine, we took that apart and cleaned it up, makes a nice click when I hook the ignition wire to the battery. Hope to start putting in the wiring harness tomorrow.

 

[thebigredrocker]

One thing to check, is make sure your primary throttle plate is almost closed at idle. Air should just barely be able squeeze by the primary plate which helps pull fuel from the idle fuel hole right next to the plate. As you probably know the idle speed screw controls that gap.

Perhaps try the "okie rebuild" Pin_head mentions from time.

Not that it matters now, your carb manufacture date should be stamped on the airhorn. My guess is it will start with a 2 or 3.

 

[FJ40Jim]

That is a '71 carb.

Do not connect any vac hose to the '71 vac retard distributor. Just set base timing to 10*BTDC and run as mechanical advance only.
Cap off manifold vac fitting (#3).

Cap the giant hose fitting on the air cleaner lid that used to feed clean air to the AIR pump. It's just letting dirty air right into the top of the carb.

Install large diameter oil-proof hose between currently capped air cleaner barb and fitting on valve cover. Maybe available from Toyota?

There is a rubber seal that should be in the neck of the air cleaner to seal it against the carb air horn. Get a new one from Toyota.

Back the idle mix screw (#1) out 4 or 5 turns to get a decent idle. Adjust the idle speed screw (hidden on back side of carb) to get the desired idle speed. If it will idle at 6-700RPM, then turn in idle mix screw until idle speed starts to drop, turn back out to achieve peak/smoothest idle.
If it will not idle correctly, then it likely is running too lean due to:
-manifold vacuum leak
-plugged carb idle passage
-warped carb body &/or air horn.

HTH

 

[cjgoode]

Another question, on the back side of the carb towards the firewall there are two screws. The one you can adjust from the driver side clearly changes the throttle and idles, rotates the same part the throttle does. But the other screw that has to be adjusted from the passenger side, what does that do?

Well based on this I got it running smoother, 5 turns out on the mixture screw helped. But still will not run without the choke. Maybe as more gas flows through the carb it will come to life better. Plan to pull it and at least blast some carb cleaner through all the ports and jets, and check out the dist cap etc this weekend.

 

[Pin_Head]

The screw in the cast iron base sets the idle speed. The screw on the linkage adjusts the high idle speed when the choke is applied.

It is possible but unlikely that the idle speed is set too low. Try bumping it up. As long as it idles without fuel dripping out of the main nozzle you are OK.

 

[NOVAFJ60]

Does anyone have a ballpark estimate on how many turns I need to make on the fuel mixture screw for an FJ60? I tried the lean drop method but screwed it up. Anyone ever write down how many turns????? Thanks!

 

[65swb45]

Does anyone have a ballpark estimate on how many turns I need to make on the fuel mixture screw for an FJ60? I tried the lean drop method but screwed it up. Anyone ever write down how many turns????? Thanks!

It's not a hard and fast number, or you would have seen it published. 5 is the accepted baseline. You should be able to HEAR the difference going down from there...eventually. And you MAY hear a difference going up. YMMV.