What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (17 Viewers)

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Rook rack delete thanks to @OG 91 LC and his write up.

Also did an oil change, repacked the CVs, and resealed them with the PFran kit.
 
Clean!
 
I replaced the faulty master switch for the windows with the $18 eBay chi-com version. Works great.....so far. Heck, I'll buy another 10 and still save $$$ over what the dealer wants for one
 
After stumbling upon the craigslist find of the year, I then turned around and sold the black Tundra TRD wheels for essentially what I paid for both the wheels and the 285/65/18 KO2s originally last weekend. I said screw it, I'll just keep the barely used KO2s and appreciate the fact that I essentially got 'em for 1/10th of their retail price.

I then realized two of the four already had beginnings of cracks (BFG KO2 Cracking at 10k). Took the set to Discount Tire and after about 15 minutes he (discount tire guy) got the approval from Michelin for prorated replacement under warranty. Best part? I was able to get brand new 275/70/18s for the same prorated price the original 285/65s would have been. Brand new KO2s under full warranty and lifetime road-force balancing...figure I'll enjoy them this winter and just keep an eye on them, replacing (again) if need be.

Right after the installation (before torsion bar crank and alignment...)
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And after the tbar crank/alignment (I'm going to measure it again later tonight, but I'm pretty sure the stinkbug droop isn't 'enough'...although there is still roughly 200lbs of tires/wheels sitting in the trunk of the truck, and it rides absolutely phenomenally - soft and straight...we'll see).
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kinda diggin the 100 without rear bumper how easy was that to take off? going to a pretty rock crawler escue trail in the next couple days and more clearance/ departure angle out the back would be sweet
 
kinda diggin the 100 without rear bumper how easy was that to take off? going to a pretty rock crawler escue trail in the next couple days and more clearance/ departure angle out the back would be sweet
easiest thing in the world...just watch out for your resonator hanging down when you're on the trails...I had mine taken off and the pipe re-routed out the side by a muffler shop, but from what I've heard/read its easy enough to do by yourself if you decide to take it off.
 
I used my long weekend to design and build a mount for my Yaesu FT-7800 face plate.

On the printer (excuse the blur):


From left to right: Print failed due to power outage, print successful but locking tabs were too low, print failed to adhere properly to the bed, final successful print.


Whipped up a quick 45 degree bracket:


Installed:


I can still remove the face plate if needed:



This is just a prototype. I will reprint in nylon this spring when the temps rise and the PLA plastic starts to fail. I am sure I will make some changes (I already have to both parts, but these are usable).
 
Finally had time and a make-shift bushing puller to get the poly rack bushings in with the collar.
Wow what a pain! Guess working on your back in cooler weather just isn't what it was in my 20s, lol...

But Timex is moving under it's own power again, Yay!

I also got some nifty hose clamps from O'Reillys for my P/S lines. They come in different colors and the handles are removable.

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I adjusted the wheel bearing nut (one star tab tighter) in effort to chase down the wandering condition on the highway. I think it all is headed to a new steering rack, but I can try anyway.

I also lost a dang cone washer through a dumb mistake. Luckily I am very close to a dealer to odds and ends that Beno doesn't handle (less under a hundy). So I bought a couple paper gaskets, a second cone washer, the star washer and another hub cab.........that stuff adds up fast even with their "discount"
 
Pulled out my Wheeler's bump stops on my 06 LX. Just was not the combo I was looking for. One of those deals that loved the pros but couldn't take the cons.

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This may seem a hack, but if you are going to get rid of them, why not cut off the upper one-third and see how that works for you
 
I adjusted the wheel bearing nut (one star tab tighter) in effort to chase down the wandering condition on the highway. I think it all is headed to a new steering rack, but I can try anyway.*****
Check your steering rack bushing, most 100 series need replacements. Majority of wondering is corrected as @Greenbean has done, rather than new steering rack:
Finally had time and a make-shift bushing puller to get the poly rack bushings in with the collar.
Wow what a pain! Guess working on your back in cooler weather just isn't what it was in my 20s, lol...

But Timex is moving under it's own power again, Yay!

I also got some nifty hose clamps from O'Reillys for my P/S lines. They come in different colors and the handles are removable.

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Check your steering rack bushing, most 100 series need replacements. Majority of wondering is corrected as @Greenbean has done, rather than new steering rack:
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I didn't state but I have already ready replaced the rack bushings. I really noticed the problem when I wen from stock size tires to 295/75. After that I am going to shoot for caster in the 3-4 degree range (presently 2.0, right at the limit of FSM spec)


The clamp he made works a bit better with all-thread, so you can adjust things and take it apart easier. I also used a flex-head ratchet and deep socket to get the big bushing off.
 
This may seem a hack, but if you are going to get rid of them, why not cut off the upper one-third and see how that works for you

I had considered it. The more I drive without them I'm glad there off. I just like the factory ride and I am not really ever hitting the factory bumps that much if any. They will limit travel even if I cut them and I now feel that allowing shocks to have as much travel as possible to dissipate the energy is more efficient than having the stops interfere with it especially with the ifs limited travel issue to begin with. I think they have made them firmer than the older models that seem to compress easily and further than factory causing the fear of over compression using them. You would really have to be flying and hit some big dips or holes to over compress with these.
 
Installed my Cobra CB and a storage attic over the cargo area. Had some brackets made and bolted them in where the 3rd row grab handles go. Got a 2x4 wire grid and 4 U-bolt / wire rope clips, works great for light weight bulky items, like jackets. Also good for hanging bags from. No more jackets or coats laying in the rear seat.



 
Tred-pros added to the the recovery equipment. Looking forward to trying these out.

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Subwoofer blown... Took it apart and repaired the foam surround.

I was going to do a write up if everyone wants...

Sounds sooo much better. Cost less than $20

I even have one more surround if anyone wants it to repair theirs.

I am planning to do mine.. Would love a write up..

Thank you..
 
For $20 bucks I finally replaced the dead shock struts for my hood! I was getting tired of always using a small vice grip on the shaft of the dead shock or a stick to hold up the hood for the past several years.

Muy happy!:clap:
 
View attachment 1372597 View attachment 1372597Glad I didn't have to change a tire on our latest trip. I rotated the tires before the trip too, torqued to 100 lbs. I don't know what happened but at least now I know to carry a couple spare studs and nuts. Keep your minds out of the gutter!

This same thing happen to me when I first got my LC with 172k miles. I ended up changing 5 studs in the rear
 

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