Yes, looking for the rubber wings which attach to bottom of rear doors flare section….they fill the gap between door flare and running board. If so , and in decent condition, would you be willing to sell, throw in a box and ship to me? My dime of course.
Builds THE LESS MAD - MAD MAX BUILD (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rainen
- Start date
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Yes, looking for the rubber wings which attach to bottom of rear doors flare section….they fill the gap between door flare and running board. If so , and in decent condition, would you be willing to sell, throw in a box and ship to me? My dime of course.
- Thread starter
- #22
I actually piled all this stuff in the back of my truck this weekend to take it to the dump, but haven't made it to the dump yet. I will drag these out and have a look. I think they are still in good shape. I will let you know.
Thank you for checking!
- Thread starter
- #24
PUTTING LIPSTICK ON THE PIG
I stripped off both of the fenders and the lower grill. I sanded it all down with an RO sander and 320 grit. I then prepped the garage for a little paint. Added eye hooks to the ceiling
A little gorilla tape, a drop cloth and you got yourself a Dexter-esque painting booth. I used tie wire, otherwise as known and Toyota exhaust hanger to hand all the parts for the ceiling. A little primer
Then wet sand with 400, let dry and then start shooting with white. On the first round of topcoat I was using this paint from Lowes. Don’t use this, ever, for anything, no matter what.
After going through 4 cans, the coverage sucked, the application was terrible, really sputtering large blotches etc. So after a great deal of colorful language I scrapped it. Wet sanded everything down again and went back to standard flat white rustoleum.
Much better results. About 2-3X the coverage per can. Much smoother application.
The final result.
Not a bad color match either
I stripped off both of the fenders and the lower grill. I sanded it all down with an RO sander and 320 grit. I then prepped the garage for a little paint. Added eye hooks to the ceiling
A little gorilla tape, a drop cloth and you got yourself a Dexter-esque painting booth. I used tie wire, otherwise as known and Toyota exhaust hanger to hand all the parts for the ceiling. A little primer
Then wet sand with 400, let dry and then start shooting with white. On the first round of topcoat I was using this paint from Lowes. Don’t use this, ever, for anything, no matter what.
After going through 4 cans, the coverage sucked, the application was terrible, really sputtering large blotches etc. So after a great deal of colorful language I scrapped it. Wet sanded everything down again and went back to standard flat white rustoleum.
Much better results. About 2-3X the coverage per can. Much smoother application.
The final result.
Not a bad color match either
- Thread starter
- #25
THE BAT HOOK
Unfortunately not really super hero apparel. Getting the battery to stay in place was the last thing on the list prior to being able to get the truck on the road. The stock battery strap, after 273,000 miles, 22 years, and a wreck was looking pretty rough
So I started with some 1” x 1” by 1/8” angle. A little porta band work
And you’re left with this
Some flat bar to top it off
A little craptastic welding, some flat black paint. And bam…
That ought to do it
Unfortunately not really super hero apparel. Getting the battery to stay in place was the last thing on the list prior to being able to get the truck on the road. The stock battery strap, after 273,000 miles, 22 years, and a wreck was looking pretty rough
So I started with some 1” x 1” by 1/8” angle. A little porta band work
And you’re left with this
Some flat bar to top it off
A little craptastic welding, some flat black paint. And bam…
That ought to do it
- Thread starter
- #27
FROM LOWERED TO LAWN ORNAMENT
So I have started collecting parts. Building a classic MUD rig. OME Heavy lift, ARBs, 35s etc.
After sitting down and looking at the stack of parts and working out an order or operation it became apparent that after rebuilding the knuckles, replacing the brake lines, swapping out the bushings in the lower control arms, removing the driveshaft and the 3rd swapping out the springs, shocks and steering dampener What I would be left with was one bolt in the panhard and the tirerod at the pitman arm holding the axle to the truck. Seemed a lot easier to just pull the whole thing.
I pulled the truck in that garage and started to break everything loose. I have to say that even with 273,000+ miles on the truck this was the easiest tear down I have done. Everything broke loose easy with the exception of the driveshaft bolts. These we loctited on there and took a lot of persuading with an impact wrench to get the break free. At one point I thought about using some heat to help break them free but I couldn’t figure a way to do that without igniting all the oil under truck. Seemed a little soon to burn it to the ground.
There is some Karma here as well as I bathed the last truck in the red Loctite. I am sure the current owner of my old rig has cursed me many times, this is my pennants. So after getting it all broken loose I pulled the shocks and springs. Quite a different look as a lowrider.
I then puled it out of the garage, placed on it jack stands, pulled the axle. This was a bit of chore, but happy to have space in the garage to rebuilt the axle without having to do this under the truck.
Not a bad lawn ornament. Real tech, is coming....
So I have started collecting parts. Building a classic MUD rig. OME Heavy lift, ARBs, 35s etc.
After sitting down and looking at the stack of parts and working out an order or operation it became apparent that after rebuilding the knuckles, replacing the brake lines, swapping out the bushings in the lower control arms, removing the driveshaft and the 3rd swapping out the springs, shocks and steering dampener What I would be left with was one bolt in the panhard and the tirerod at the pitman arm holding the axle to the truck. Seemed a lot easier to just pull the whole thing.
I pulled the truck in that garage and started to break everything loose. I have to say that even with 273,000+ miles on the truck this was the easiest tear down I have done. Everything broke loose easy with the exception of the driveshaft bolts. These we loctited on there and took a lot of persuading with an impact wrench to get the break free. At one point I thought about using some heat to help break them free but I couldn’t figure a way to do that without igniting all the oil under truck. Seemed a little soon to burn it to the ground.
There is some Karma here as well as I bathed the last truck in the red Loctite. I am sure the current owner of my old rig has cursed me many times, this is my pennants. So after getting it all broken loose I pulled the shocks and springs. Quite a different look as a lowrider.
I then puled it out of the garage, placed on it jack stands, pulled the axle. This was a bit of chore, but happy to have space in the garage to rebuilt the axle without having to do this under the truck.
Not a bad lawn ornament. Real tech, is coming....
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- Oct 22, 2002
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Great read so far. Just an FYI, what you have there is a FZJ80 
it's much better than a FJ80.
it's much better than a FJ80.- Thread starter
- #29
ROCKET SURGERY
It’s been a while since I updated so I thought I would get this thread up to speed. I stripped the front axle out of the rig and started the rebuild.
I have rebuilt a few Toyota axle before, but never re-geared any before. After reading just about every install here (Toyota Gear Installs) and reviewing the FSM, I came to a couple conclusions. 1. It doesn’t get any easier than Toyota axle, ‘casue the whole 3RD pulls out. 2. I owned most of the tools already. 3. Really what is the worse that could happen? (time will tell on this one). So with all that in mind I ordered up 4.88 kits and ARB lockers and started the install.
So step one for me in the regear process was to build a jig to hold the 3rds to the workbench. You could certainly do this without the jig, but the 3rds are heavy, and there were times where I need to access one end, then the other. So the ability to keep it mounted and just spin it came in pretty handy.
I also build 2 tools, the first was a spanner wrench for the adjustment rings.
The second was just a simple way to get more leverage on the drive flange. This became very handy as you start to tighten, and loosen, and tighten again on the pinion nut (solid spacers).
It did take a while to get through the first one. Just a lot of trial and error to select the right shims etc. However by the time I started on the rear third I got pretty quick and tearing down, changing shims and re-assembling. Now time will tell if I got it all right, I am fairly confident that I did. All together I would say that it was a fun challenge.
It’s been a while since I updated so I thought I would get this thread up to speed. I stripped the front axle out of the rig and started the rebuild.
I have rebuilt a few Toyota axle before, but never re-geared any before. After reading just about every install here (Toyota Gear Installs) and reviewing the FSM, I came to a couple conclusions. 1. It doesn’t get any easier than Toyota axle, ‘casue the whole 3RD pulls out. 2. I owned most of the tools already. 3. Really what is the worse that could happen? (time will tell on this one). So with all that in mind I ordered up 4.88 kits and ARB lockers and started the install.
So step one for me in the regear process was to build a jig to hold the 3rds to the workbench. You could certainly do this without the jig, but the 3rds are heavy, and there were times where I need to access one end, then the other. So the ability to keep it mounted and just spin it came in pretty handy.
I also build 2 tools, the first was a spanner wrench for the adjustment rings.
The second was just a simple way to get more leverage on the drive flange. This became very handy as you start to tighten, and loosen, and tighten again on the pinion nut (solid spacers).
It did take a while to get through the first one. Just a lot of trial and error to select the right shims etc. However by the time I started on the rear third I got pretty quick and tearing down, changing shims and re-assembling. Now time will tell if I got it all right, I am fairly confident that I did. All together I would say that it was a fun challenge.
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- Thread starter
- #30
BRACKETRY
So I am skipping over the tear down and rebuild of the front axle and the removal of the ABS pump, re-plumbing and extending break lines. Installing the OME lift kit and new caster bushings etc. I feel like all that has been covered here.
I needed to mount the ARB compressor and all the associated solenoids etc associated with the ARB lockers. Looking through the engine compartment it sure seemed like it would be nice to put a compressor where the ABS pump used to be. #roomforactivities
So I stripped the mounting bracket off the bottom of the pump and started to modify it to fit the compressor. Step one was the try and strip as much of the factory paint off the bracket
After a little back and forth, this was the final bracket.
This bracket holds the ARB compressor, the manifold and the solenoids that activate the lockers. On the side closest to the fender I mounted an 80 amp circuit breaker for the compressor (I eliminated the stock fuses that come as part of the wiring kit) on top side of the horizontal plate. On the underside of the plate I mounted the igniter that connects to the ignition coil. As a little side note if the igniter isn’t grounded by being bolted to the body of the truck, the truck won’t start.
Overall I am pretty happy how I was able to keep everything mounted in a pretty tight space but still make it serviceable to work on should the need arise. I can pull the whole thing out of the truck with the 4 bolts that mounted the stock ABS pump in place.
Now on to mounting the locker switches….
So I am skipping over the tear down and rebuild of the front axle and the removal of the ABS pump, re-plumbing and extending break lines. Installing the OME lift kit and new caster bushings etc. I feel like all that has been covered here.
I needed to mount the ARB compressor and all the associated solenoids etc associated with the ARB lockers. Looking through the engine compartment it sure seemed like it would be nice to put a compressor where the ABS pump used to be. #roomforactivities
So I stripped the mounting bracket off the bottom of the pump and started to modify it to fit the compressor. Step one was the try and strip as much of the factory paint off the bracket
After a little back and forth, this was the final bracket.
This bracket holds the ARB compressor, the manifold and the solenoids that activate the lockers. On the side closest to the fender I mounted an 80 amp circuit breaker for the compressor (I eliminated the stock fuses that come as part of the wiring kit) on top side of the horizontal plate. On the underside of the plate I mounted the igniter that connects to the ignition coil. As a little side note if the igniter isn’t grounded by being bolted to the body of the truck, the truck won’t start.
Overall I am pretty happy how I was able to keep everything mounted in a pretty tight space but still make it serviceable to work on should the need arise. I can pull the whole thing out of the truck with the 4 bolts that mounted the stock ABS pump in place.
Now on to mounting the locker switches….
- Thread starter
- #31
SWITCHES
A little side note on my psychosis here; I realize that you can buy mounting platform for carling switches for like a dollar. But why do that when you can buy a magnetic break from Baileigh?
So it seems that the easiest/best place to mount a pile of switches is at the front of lower center console. After a little figuring, I came up with this.
Pulled the center consule out of the truck and cut two slots in the top with a dremel (sorry got carried away and didn’t get a lot of pics) then I took these tabs and, bent them to 90 and passed up through the slots in the center console. I then eypoxied them in place.
For the back of the switch panel I made a plastic cover our of Kydex. Really cools stuff and I heated it with a heat gun and bent it brake. The end result looks like this.
This obviously has room for 3 switches required for the lockers (compressor power, front locker, rear locker) as well a lots of room for the future. There are 2 screws on the sides that are removed, then the whole panel can pull forward to work on it. I will get more images of it installed in the truck
A little side note on my psychosis here; I realize that you can buy mounting platform for carling switches for like a dollar. But why do that when you can buy a magnetic break from Baileigh?
So it seems that the easiest/best place to mount a pile of switches is at the front of lower center console. After a little figuring, I came up with this.
Pulled the center consule out of the truck and cut two slots in the top with a dremel (sorry got carried away and didn’t get a lot of pics) then I took these tabs and, bent them to 90 and passed up through the slots in the center console. I then eypoxied them in place.
For the back of the switch panel I made a plastic cover our of Kydex. Really cools stuff and I heated it with a heat gun and bent it brake. The end result looks like this.
This obviously has room for 3 switches required for the lockers (compressor power, front locker, rear locker) as well a lots of room for the future. There are 2 screws on the sides that are removed, then the whole panel can pull forward to work on it. I will get more images of it installed in the truck
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your work bench is trick.
I want that switch panel too. great work, keep it up!
I want that switch panel too. great work, keep it up!
I love these kinds of threads!
1) Good story
2) Guy with skills and tools
3) Plenty of pictures
4) Good commentary with a great blend of useful information and humor!
Thanks and keep up the good work!
1) Good story
2) Guy with skills and tools
3) Plenty of pictures
4) Good commentary with a great blend of useful information and humor!
Thanks and keep up the good work!
2fpower
SILVER Star
OK, that brake is pretty cool. Watch the end where you use round stock to hold it.
I'm feeling it.... Great thread
Amazing thread, so entertaining!
Atwalz
Civil Engineer
I like battery hooks. I will copy your style. When I bought mine it did not have them. Thanks.
mad fab skills!
gofast
SILVER Star
subbed - fun write up and nice work with the kydex - makes great sheaths for knives but I never thought about faces for switches.
