Rivman1243
SILVER Star
Do you or have you monitored your AFR or EGT? looks like I need to finish reading your build thread
TurboClunker (a.k.a. cheap-ass slaps a turbo on his LX) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Heckraiser
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- Thread starter
- #442
I think it's mainly the diesel folks that are concerned with EGT. I monitor my air/fuel mixture with a wideband o2 sensor and UEGO gauge, and as long as that is good, not really anything to worry about.
EGT's really become a concern if you've been towing or go on an extended trip with lots of miles and hills. But even then all you have to do is let the vehicle idle for a minute or two to let the turbo cool down.
Yep, monitor AFR with a realtime gauge and datalog, as well as datalog; RPM, Throttle position sensor, Boost, Timing, AIT, etc.
alia176
SILVER Star
Ok, I misspoke then, I should've said AFR. Once the turbo is dialed in and such, do folks still need these feedback gauges for DD operation?
Do you need a temperature gauge or voltage gauge for daily operation? Nope, but they sure are nice to have same with an AFR.
alia176
SILVER Star
Good point.
- Thread starter
- #448
Once the build is buttoned up and done, it should operate pretty much the same way under the same conditions going forward. So in that sense, the gauge isn't really necessary to keep (I even thought about selling mine once I get everything sorted). But it is very important to have at the beginning to make sure you're not going to burn up your motor. But AFR anomalies can cue you in to potential problems/issues later on down the line before any parts fail, so might as well keep it. Boost gauge is also not required for normal operation, but it's fun to watch 
But again the boost gauge can key you into problems that are small before they become big. 
Not making as much boost as before, you might have a possible boost leak, making more boost than your wastegate is set at you might have a carbon build up on the wastegate. AFR is the same way, you don't need it but it can cue you into problems like leaking injectors, failed injectors, etc. Find small gauges, hide them in your glovebox, put them down low on the console, do the a pillar mount, etc. There are ways not to make it look like a ricer.
Not making as much boost as before, you might have a possible boost leak, making more boost than your wastegate is set at you might have a carbon build up on the wastegate. AFR is the same way, you don't need it but it can cue you into problems like leaking injectors, failed injectors, etc. Find small gauges, hide them in your glovebox, put them down low on the console, do the a pillar mount, etc. There are ways not to make it look like a ricer.Once the build is buttoned up and done, it should operate pretty much the same way under the same conditions going forward. So in that sense, the gauge isn't really necessary to keep (I even thought about selling mine once I get everything sorted). But it is very important to have at the beginning to make sure you're not going to burn up your motor. But AFR anomalies can cue you in to potential problems/issues later on down the line before any parts fail, so might as well keep it. Boost gauge is also not required for normal operation, but it's fun to watch
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I think the scoop looks badass. It's always a great feeling when something you make works better than you expected. Good job bud.
alia176
SILVER Star
But again the boost gauge can key you into problems that are small before they become big.
This is good info. Seems like the diesel guys live/die by their EGT gauges and modify their driving style but you guys aren't falling into that rabbit hole it seems.
- Thread starter
- #452
Minor update for posterity's sake and to hopefully help out someone else who might use the treadstone manifold.
I have been getting a recurring EGR code. When I clear it, it will inevitably come back in a matter of minutes, hours or days. Well, of course, in my hurry to throw this whole thing together, I didn't really give any thought to the EGR passage on cylinder #6 on the stock manifold or take the time to compare the stockers to the new manifold, otherwise I definitely would have caught this.
So it might be obvious to the more observant mudder, but the egr passage is not present in the treadstone manifold and will need to be machined in with a grinder. At this point, the thought of tearing this all they way down to the manifold makes me want to puke, so I will probably continue to just watch my CEL until the next time emissions testing rolls around.
Here's a picture of what I'm talking about (stolen from google)
Other than that, the truck is running great. It got 14.87 mpg on my last fill up, which is about as good as it gets for this truck, despite my somewhat hooligan driving. I credit this to a lack of downshifting on the hills. The exhaust has become a little leaky and I'm thinking about either re-doing the downpipe after practicing on A LOT of scrap, or potentially hiring out a professional downpipe. I think the heat, pressure and vibration of general use has blown through the thin spots in my bird**** welds.
I have been getting a recurring EGR code. When I clear it, it will inevitably come back in a matter of minutes, hours or days. Well, of course, in my hurry to throw this whole thing together, I didn't really give any thought to the EGR passage on cylinder #6 on the stock manifold or take the time to compare the stockers to the new manifold, otherwise I definitely would have caught this.
So it might be obvious to the more observant mudder, but the egr passage is not present in the treadstone manifold and will need to be machined in with a grinder. At this point, the thought of tearing this all they way down to the manifold makes me want to puke, so I will probably continue to just watch my CEL until the next time emissions testing rolls around.
Here's a picture of what I'm talking about (stolen from google)
Other than that, the truck is running great. It got 14.87 mpg on my last fill up, which is about as good as it gets for this truck, despite my somewhat hooligan driving. I credit this to a lack of downshifting on the hills. The exhaust has become a little leaky and I'm thinking about either re-doing the downpipe after practicing on A LOT of scrap, or potentially hiring out a professional downpipe. I think the heat, pressure and vibration of general use has blown through the thin spots in my bird**** welds.
That's a bummer if you need to pass emissions testing. My CX manifold is the same but I just did the resistor mod to get rid of the cel, but I don't have testing here
- Thread starter
- #454
Honestly, with two nearly new cats, I'm pretty sure my tailpipe would still pass regardless of EGR. So I could probably pass by clearing the code while in line at the testing facility and then just crossing my fingers and hoping the light doesn't turn on while the truck is on the rollers. But EGR probably does do something for emissions, otherwise it wouldn't be there, so I will eventually get around to it
For those of you keeping track, I would chalk this up as one point in the "custom y-pipe" category (vs treadstone or CX). Although again, the problem was mainly just me being in a hurry and not paying attention.
For those of you keeping track, I would chalk this up as one point in the "custom y-pipe" category (vs treadstone or CX). Although again, the problem was mainly just me being in a hurry and not paying attention.
Actually clearing the CEL right before the test is a bad idea and they'll turn you away. The ECU needs to be in a "ready" state for them to proceed with testing. Which is probably when your CEL is coming on.Honestly, with two nearly new cats, I'm pretty sure my tailpipe would still pass regardless of EGR. So I could probably pass by clearing the code while in line at the testing facility and then just crossing my fingers and hoping the light doesn't turn on while the truck is on the rollers. But EGR probably does do something for emissions, otherwise it wouldn't be there, so I will eventually get around to it
For those of you keeping track, I would chalk this up as one point in the "custom y-pipe" category (vs treadstone or CX). Although again, the problem was mainly just me being in a hurry and not paying attention.
I would probably go with the resistor mod and hope they don't notice it. Although with a turbo on that thing they might be a little more suspicious and look for other modifications. But I believe you would have a better chance this way vs trying to clear the CEL right before the test.
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
Actually clearing the CEL right before the test is a bad idea and they'll turn you away. The ECU needs to be in a "ready" state for them to proceed with testing. Which is probably when your CEL is coming on.
X2...had that happen here in AZ on a Jeep. Didn't reset a code but merely had had the battery disconnected which apparently did the same thing. They said to go drive it 50 miles and then come back...but still kept my money
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
Glad yours is doing well other than the cel. My ems setup bolted to the factory manifold so have not had any problems at all. Best mpg though has been a little over 12 which is what I got before. However, the power going up hills is amazing. As you said it holds top gear so much longer. I manually shift out of OD when engine temp gets around 205. Hills I used to go up at around 38-40 MPH now I do at 60+
Thanks for posting your project...it's what got me motivated to do mine
Thanks for posting your project...it's what got me motivated to do mine
- Thread starter
- #458
Glad it's working out for youGlad yours is doing well other than the cel. My ems setup bolted to the factory manifold so have not had any problems at all. Best mpg though has been a little over 12 which is what I got before. However, the power going up hills is amazing. As you said it holds top gear so much longer. I manually shift out of OD when engine temp gets around 205. Hills I used to go up at around 38-40 MPH now I do at 60+
I'm pretty sure your rig weighs a lot more than mine, judging by your sig, so no surprise with the MPG. I was honestly expecting it to go down since I've been "punching it" more often, but seems to be just as good as before in the flat lands and a little bit better in the mountains. I'm still jealous of your EMS pipe... if I had known there were any available, I would have tried to snatch that out from under you
@b16 thanks for the emissions tip. I will probably end up pulling the manifold and just grinding a little channel into the flange at some point. I'd rather do it right. I'm just really not keen on working under the hood anymore
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
Yeah, mine weighs just over 6600 lbs. I think the ad had been posted for like 15 minutes when I happened on it about 2+ years ago. The guy was kind of surprised when I responded so quickly. Just got lucky for once...
Air Care Colorado :: "Check Engine" Light
"Effective January 1, 2015, an illuminated "Check Engine" light will cause vehicles eight (8) to 11 model years old to fail emissions. Vehicles 12 years and older will continue to receive an "Advisory" fail."
"advisory fail" means you will pass if the sniffer and gas cap pass.
"Effective January 1, 2015, an illuminated "Check Engine" light will cause vehicles eight (8) to 11 model years old to fail emissions. Vehicles 12 years and older will continue to receive an "Advisory" fail."
"advisory fail" means you will pass if the sniffer and gas cap pass.
