fj80 and lx450 ps pump rebuild (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter gnob
- Start date
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blunderbuss
80 series
How are you guys removing the bearing from the shaft? And how do you get the new one back on without damaging it?
blunderbuss
80 series
Pretty sure the inner sleeve is toast. Note to self, if using a slide hammer to unseat the front plate don't put it in too deep.
excellent theme thanks to those who have thought so, I recommend the following tips :
1. When removing the rotor blades should be placed in the same place they were before, and should be fixed very well when installing them since they have a flat side and one circular circular side is the one to go out.
2. When trying to loosen the pinion nut should hold something so it does not move , I recommend you do not try to hold it with pliers press or chain if they will do coloquenle a piece of wood or Hold it with a wrench belt because the slightest damage to the gear will cause the gear to make noise to be working. For me personally I happened and for this reason I got to buy a new pump sprocket as the press some teeth hurt .....
3. If the inner walls of the oval have lijenlas scratches with a very fine sandpaper until the scratches disappear ..
best regards!!!
1. When removing the rotor blades should be placed in the same place they were before, and should be fixed very well when installing them since they have a flat side and one circular circular side is the one to go out.
2. When trying to loosen the pinion nut should hold something so it does not move , I recommend you do not try to hold it with pliers press or chain if they will do coloquenle a piece of wood or Hold it with a wrench belt because the slightest damage to the gear will cause the gear to make noise to be working. For me personally I happened and for this reason I got to buy a new pump sprocket as the press some teeth hurt .....
3. If the inner walls of the oval have lijenlas scratches with a very fine sandpaper until the scratches disappear ..
best regards!!!
My $0.02
Replace the pressure relief spring while you're in there, have seen them 1/4" shorter than new in high milage pumps.
Replace the pressure relief spring while you're in there, have seen them 1/4" shorter than new in high milage pumps.
Had the power steering fail out on the trail a few days ago. Got it back home and looked at the reservoir which was empty, filled it up, bled it, and it all seems fine. One problem is there is a leak from the high pressure port.
Questions
1. If there is too much fluid in the system is it supposed to leak out from the pressure port?
2. How much should the flow valve be screwed in?
Questions
1. If there is too much fluid in the system is it supposed to leak out from the pressure port?
2. How much should the flow valve be screwed in?
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
subscribing...
Great thread. Sorry to bump up an older one, but my PS pump is getting progressively noisy. It's only leaking a small amount of fluid but I always keep it full. When making noise it's acting like it's low on fluid and not pumping well. It make me think that it's more than just seals that are needed. Would love some input on this.
Old fluid can get thick In cold weather and sound bad until it gets warm. Regardless, you will figure it out when you take it apart
I guess you're right but I'd hate to order the rebuild kit and get it torn down only to find out that I need a whole new pump.
Great thread thanks. A couple of things I will add to this as I rebuilt mine.
- I had to use a little persuasion (drift & hammer) to remove my pump after the 2 nuts holding it to the timing cover were removed. Gently tapped it out.
- To remove the large snap ring holding the rear cover on, use a c-clamp and compress the rear housing. This make it much easier to get at the little bugger.
When replacing the shaft bearing, how does one get the snap ring back in place? I just fought with mine for an hour, finally got it down the shaft to the bearing, but it's definitely deformed. Very loose. The old one deformed coming out as well. I've got a cheap pair of the vise-grip multi tip snap ring pliers, but this ring is a bugger!
Any help before I go buy a reman pump?
Edit: Just put some pressure on the snap ring with a pair of vise-grips and it is a little smaller, not seating in the groove like I'd like it to be though. Any opinions on the tolerances of that area of the pump?
Any help before I go buy a reman pump?
Edit: Just put some pressure on the snap ring with a pair of vise-grips and it is a little smaller, not seating in the groove like I'd like it to be though. Any opinions on the tolerances of that area of the pump?
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Since we all worry about doing damage to the pump gear, Here's a very simple tool i made to hold that gear. It's made from a wood 2X6, the one end you can clamp in your bench vice and the other end clamps the gear. I used a hole saw to make the large hole, then i used a sand paper flapper wheel to bring the hole to just under the O.D.size of the gear. Next i cross drilled it for 2, 1/2 inch bolts to clamp the gear, then i finished it off by cutting it apart on a band saw. While clamped in this block my gear never once moved while removing, or installing that nut. Here's the best part,it only cost a few bucks to make, and you can loan it to your Toyota friends when they need to rebuild their pump.
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I have a silly Question. I recently did the seal kit in my 93. It was leaking from the back plate. Seemed good until the next day..back to leaking in the same spot. The question is does the oring on the back plate go underneath the plate(sandwiched) or is it also in a groove around the outside of the plate.
I should of noticed but didn't think about it until it started leaking again. I put the oring under the plate. Thx for any help.
I should of noticed but didn't think about it until it started leaking again. I put the oring under the plate. Thx for any help.
This seems like a great question, did you ever get a direct answer?
So I am putting things back together and some things do add up between the write-up and the assembly diagram.
First, when lubricating the assembled parts are we use the ATF oil or penetrating oil? FSM says ATF.
Second, when I am putting in the pump shaft and bearing: shouldn't the shaft be able to freely turn after the snap ring is installed. Right, it will not turn, but it did before I installed the shaft. The pump shaft snap ring did appear to be seat flush - could this be an issue?
Third. When I assemble everything, I have a question about the proper installation of the O-rings? Per the installation diagram, the o-rings called out #24 appear to go as I have installed below. The smaller appears to go up in the recessed area of front plate and the larger appears to go on the lips at the base of the cylinder.
Fourth. I main reason I am asking these questions is that the rear plate appears to not seat well. I can not tell how to properly orient things. I see in the write up to align the "K" on the cam ring below. It appears pretty straightforward but the rear plate appear to hang up. The affect is that the rear housing plate is sitting too high and I can not compress everything down to set the final snap ring. I wonder if my rear plate is warped a bit or if my compressed assembly is off to start because of the O-rings #24?
Lastly, I already had a pump fail when I switched them out. I am pretty sure that I overfilled the system during the toping off and bleeding of the system. Per the FSM, it seems like you need to flush the system by disconnecting the return hose - then fill and flush the fluid out with a system of turning the engine on for 2 secs and letting the pump flush the fluid through the system; refill and repeat 4-5 times. Does anyone have a photo of the set-up they used for this? Is this the best approach? Is it ok to do this while on jack stands? Finally, how can make sure I do not overfill? Is keep the return off until the system is cycled a couple times the best approach?
Thanks in advance for the insight.
First, when lubricating the assembled parts are we use the ATF oil or penetrating oil? FSM says ATF.
Second, when I am putting in the pump shaft and bearing: shouldn't the shaft be able to freely turn after the snap ring is installed. Right, it will not turn, but it did before I installed the shaft. The pump shaft snap ring did appear to be seat flush - could this be an issue?
Third. When I assemble everything, I have a question about the proper installation of the O-rings? Per the installation diagram, the o-rings called out #24 appear to go as I have installed below. The smaller appears to go up in the recessed area of front plate and the larger appears to go on the lips at the base of the cylinder.
Fourth. I main reason I am asking these questions is that the rear plate appears to not seat well. I can not tell how to properly orient things. I see in the write up to align the "K" on the cam ring below. It appears pretty straightforward but the rear plate appear to hang up. The affect is that the rear housing plate is sitting too high and I can not compress everything down to set the final snap ring. I wonder if my rear plate is warped a bit or if my compressed assembly is off to start because of the O-rings #24?
Lastly, I already had a pump fail when I switched them out. I am pretty sure that I overfilled the system during the toping off and bleeding of the system. Per the FSM, it seems like you need to flush the system by disconnecting the return hose - then fill and flush the fluid out with a system of turning the engine on for 2 secs and letting the pump flush the fluid through the system; refill and repeat 4-5 times. Does anyone have a photo of the set-up they used for this? Is this the best approach? Is it ok to do this while on jack stands? Finally, how can make sure I do not overfill? Is keep the return off until the system is cycled a couple times the best approach?
Thanks in advance for the insight.
alia176
SILVER Star
holy s***, that snap ring deal on the back of the unit is a royal PITA to remove. I'm afraid of breaking my pick tool during this process!!! I was hoping to relieve some of the pressure on the back plate by sticking the thing in a vice so that I can push the back plate inward just enough to make it easier. So far, not luck as of yet.