Can anyone recommend a good kit to rebuild my cv axles on my '03?
CV Joint Rebuild (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Coach Hugg
- Start date
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Reboot or rebuild?
Reboot, I would get oem boot kits. Rebuilds? Nah I would get new oem ones.
Reboot, I would get oem boot kits. Rebuilds? Nah I would get new oem ones.
- Thread starter
- #3
All i know is that the passenger front axle boot is ripped. I figured I would rebuild while I was there.
- Thread starter
- #5
I am already repacking the bearings this week, I am guessing it would be pretty easy to do while I am doing the bearings?
- Thread starter
- #6
If a dealership says my axle needs to be replaced, is he referring to the CV Axle?
Yes, that is probably referring to one or both front axles.
If you are disassembling as far as to service the bearings, you aren't far from pulling the axles too. There are good write ups here that can guide you pretty much all the way.
If you are disassembling as far as to service the bearings, you aren't far from pulling the axles too. There are good write ups here that can guide you pretty much all the way.
Outer lip of my front drive shaft (CV) outboard dust seal was damaged, so I replaced it. My Toyota Dealer's no longer had a part number for outboard joint shaft (tulip) or dust seal. I used a dust seal # 90304-A0001.
I applied marine grease after cleaning-up where seal buts to shaft.
I applied marine grease after cleaning-up where seal buts to shaft.
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As shown in picture above, it fits onto the outboard drive shaft axle tulip. It keep dust out of axle bearing and bushing area. I was preparing to use the Slee - Spindle Grease Tool when I notice some rubber pieces loose in the back of the steering knuckle. The rubber was from the leading edge of the drive shaft dust seal, the part that contacts the oil seal in back of knuckle. Toyota uses two seal here as you can see, one butting into other. I would not have change these or even pulled the knuckle had the need not come up while doing a wheel bearing packing.
This show back of knuckle with old oil seal in. You can see some grounded up rubber and a thin loose piece which is from outboard drive shaft dust seal.
I removed oil seal from knuckle and cleaned.
I installed the knuckles' oil seal after greasing axle bearing & bushing along with all bare metal, this includes bare metal under seal. Note: FSM calls for #1 synthetic soap based grease, but I just used #2 (red M1). This is what drive shaft dust seal seat into.
The drive shaft oil seal was a PITA to get on, as it fits very tight. I did a number of measurement before installing and seem to be proper fit. Regardless it was my only choice. Sorry I don't have one of new dust seal on drive shaft except this one after knuckle and new lower ball joint boot installed.
This show back of knuckle with old oil seal in. You can see some grounded up rubber and a thin loose piece which is from outboard drive shaft dust seal.
I removed oil seal from knuckle and cleaned.
I installed the knuckles' oil seal after greasing axle bearing & bushing along with all bare metal, this includes bare metal under seal. Note: FSM calls for #1 synthetic soap based grease, but I just used #2 (red M1). This is what drive shaft dust seal seat into.
The drive shaft oil seal was a PITA to get on, as it fits very tight. I did a number of measurement before installing and seem to be proper fit. Regardless it was my only choice. Sorry I don't have one of new dust seal on drive shaft except this one after knuckle and new lower ball joint boot installed.
The only other parts I know of that can be purchased are the; boot kits, oil seal that goes on differential, snap ring for axle that goes into differential and the various size snap ring for axle to hub flange gap. All of these are none reusable parts according to the FSM.
You won't know the wear until you open them up. If your lucky, having 2 reboot kits from Beno on hand is all you'll need. Possibly new inner axle seals and the dust seals 2001LC mentioned. The thread in the sticky's by Summit Cruisers was a huge help. I recommend kerosene for cleaning out the old inboard CV grease instead of brake cleaner which just makes a mess. Good time to check your upper and lower ball joints as well if your doing a bearing repack.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
If you axle is clicking and that's the reason for replacement, then that's plausible. If it's just the boot and they're wanting to replace the whole CV because of that, you're being taken and/or your dealer is lazy.
Once the inside bell is scored and you get a clicker, it can be rebuilt, but there's nothing really to replace. A CV shop will machine out the bell to remove the groove and replace the balls and cage with slightly larger ones to fill the difference in what they machined. Works well and is pretty affordable, ~$150 per axle with new boots.
- Thread starter
- #16
No clicking...no nothing. Just a ripped upper boot on my passenger side.
Sorry I answered the fitment but left out the from. When I gave part #90304 A0001 the parts guy at a Toyota dealer said; TOYOTA TACOMA or 4runner I really don't recall which one. I've found by googleing both those and land cruiser fitment.
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Interesting. I know that a lot of parts are interchangeable between 4runner and taco. I wonder how many other parts are interchangeable with the 100's as well. I have some old CV 's and other misc parts from my 4runner and taco. I do know that some parts are interchangeable with the 80 series as well.
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