FJ60 Power Steering Conversion for FJ40 while keeping air pump (2 Viewers)

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I just went to the wrecking yard and asked for 75 series rods and tre. No idea of part no.
60 series stuff was from a car I had heading for scrap. 60, 70, 75, 80 tie rod ends are all the same size.
 
dopypuppy said:
I just went to the wrecking yard and asked for 75 series rods and tre. No idea of part no.
60 series stuff was from a car I had heading for scrap. 60, 70, 75, 80 tie rod ends are all the same size.
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I'd love to be able to wander through the wrecking yards in Oz!

Thanks for following up.
 
PabloCruise said:
Well now that I found that nice 70-series relay rod that fits so perfectly, I have been contemplating some upgrades to my front axle; ARB and 60-series knuckles.

When I try to think through the 60 knuckles and all the changes I would have to make, it occurs to me I would need a new tie rod for the 60 series TREs, and it would have to be custom width for the 40/55 housing.

What do people do for their tie rod when they put 60 knuckles on a 40 housing? Cut a 60 tie rod and weld?

Looks like these guys up in Red Feather will make custom: http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfo...d=116&osCsid=faa04f924e90ae26a12d7d637d1c0167

But then I started thinking about my clever 70 series relay rod, and wondering it it will still fit after the 60 knuckle upgrade!
Hmm...
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Looks like my link is dead - new link: http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/steering-links/?page_context=category&faceted_search=0
 
PabloCruise said:
First I rebuilt the pump using the FSM - nothing too tricky.

Just watch things when you tear the pump down. You don't want to loose the springs that ride on the slippers!
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At some point I would like to go through the PS pump and replace the bushings. Jim C had some thoughts on the 60 series PS pump bushings:

FJ40Jim said:
The problem is the front bushing on the OEM pump. It is small, and it has no provision for pressure lubrication.

The PO will see the belt tensioner bolt on the alternator and tighten that until the belt is tuned to a G sharp (twang). That pulls sideways on the PS pulley and cause the pump shaft to eat the front bushing. Eventually there is enough sideways deflection of the shaft that it is no longer centered in the seal. Then the seal leaks.

The problem is there is no off the shelf bushing replacement for the pump, AFAIK. So rebuilding and replacing the front seal is often a temporary fix.
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PabloCruise said:
First I rebuilt the pump using the FSM - nothing too tricky.

Just watch things when you tear the pump down. You don't want to loose the springs that ride on the slippers!
View attachment 213737View attachment 213739View attachment 213740
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Update - working on sourcing new bushings for PS pumps here: FJ60 replacement power steering pump

If you "rebuild"/reseal your pump w/ worn out bushings, it will leak again soon. Hopefully this will help lots of old 60 series PS pumps out there!
 
To keep it easy but not as strong on one truck we disassembled an fj40 end that went to the manual box, threaded it into a stock fj40 drag link and fit it onto the ball of the fj60 pitman arm.
 
When you say 70 series diffs, are we talking 70 series 3rd members in a 40 series housing?

60 knuckles on 70 series diffs, you should be able to run 70 series tie rod, TREs and drag link. I have heard this will all work, but I have never had anything to do with 70 series items.

I am running the 70 series drag link, and if I hung 60 series knuckles on my 40 series axle housing, I heard the 70 series tie rods is the appropriate width to bring the 2 together...
 
subzali said:
most vehicles have a steering damper from the factory, so I wouldn't say it really is used for a mask. To me it's a safety thing; it reduces odd shimmies that turn into harmonic shimmies that result in death wobble...

but I agree with you that if you feel something you didn't have before, it needs to be fixed. But after you fix your TRE's, I would look into installing a steering damper too.

But that's just me.
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Thinking about running a steering stabilizer again, but it would have to be a pretty short unit to use the factory mount on the front cross-member and the 60 series relay rod end...

What have people done for this?
 
PabloCruise said:
Thinking about running a steering stabilizer again, but it would have to be a pretty short unit to use the factory mount on the front cross-member and the 60 series relay rod end...

What have people done for this?
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I used complete 75 series knuckle arms, tie rod and drag link with 75 tie rod ends. Then I moved the factory stabilizer mount about 100mm (I think, I can check) and used a 75 steering stabilizer. From what I can work out, a 60 stabilizer would also work as they are the same as 75.
 
blazer said:
I used complete 75 series knuckle arms, tie rod and drag link with 75 tie rod ends. Then I moved the factory stabilizer mount about 100mm (I think, I can check) and used a 75 steering stabilizer. From what I can work out, a 60 stabilizer would also work as they are the same as 75.
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So you had to move the mount over toward the passenger side of the front crossmember?
 
PabloCruise said:
So you had to move the mount over toward the passenger side of the front crossmember?
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Passenger side for me (RHD). Basically I moved the mount further away from the steering box because the 75/60 steering stabilizer is fairly long.
Although, you used 60 relay rod end, they are different to the 75 one.
 
blazer said:
Passenger side for me (RHD). Basically I moved the mount further away from the steering box because the 75/60 steering stabilizer is fairly long.
Although, you used 60 relay rod end, they are different to the 75 one.
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I know, I think the 60 relay rod end is longer than the 70. But I am not sure if it puts the stabilizer any further towards my passenger side (LHD).

Did you weld the mount? Bolt-on? Rivet?
 
PabloCruise said:
I know, I think the 60 relay rod end is longer than the 70. But I am not sure if it puts the stabilizer any further towards my passenger side (LHD).

Did you weld the mount? Bolt-on? Rivet?
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I drilled and bolted mine. Looking at the 60 relay rod end vs the 75 one. I think it would put the stabilizer further to your passenger side.
45045-D1J.gif
60 vs75
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you all do know there are different lengths of steering stabilizers? here are 2 i had on my list that are toyota applications.
MONROE SC2946 16.5”-25.6” and MONROE SC2916 13.25-22.25”
I just hadn't gone lock to lock to measure the distance. I also have a few different stabilizers sitting in the garage to test fit.
 
tornadoalleycruiser said:
you all do know there are different lengths of steering stabilizers? here are 2 i had on my list that are toyota applications.
MONROE SC2946 16.5”-25.6” and MONROE SC2916 13.25-22.25”
I just hadn't gone lock to lock to measure the distance. I also have a few different stabilizers sitting in the garage to test fit.
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Thanks man! I will get some lock-to-lock measurements!
 
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