Brake Booster (1 Viewer)

[baja1d]

I'm back working on my '64 again after a few months away and I'd like to finish the brakes up. I've upgraded the axels and brakes to 1976 and I have a brake booster adapter so that I do not have to cut the firewall support. Unfortunately, the 1976 brake booster that I have is very long and will hit my carb/air filter assembly. Rather then change to an after market carb kit, does anybody know of a shorter/different year landcruiser brake booster that I could use?

Thanks,
Travis

 

[baja1d]

Pictures

Some pictures

 

[foxfab]

I dont know the bolt pattern, but minitruck brake boosters are much thinner than that. FJ80's might be too.

 

[Living in the Past]

I have a question about master cylinders. Maybe someone here know a answer. I am changing a rear axle out of 79 for one out of a 82. The later one only has one wheel cylinder per side compared to two in the 8/75 to 7/80. Will the single wheel cylinder axle work with the 8/75 to 7/80 master. I also noticed the master cylinder in the picture only has a single reservoir. The master cylinder for the large booster has a dual reservoir.

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

I could be wrong as I do not have a '76, but from pics I have seen, I'd have to say that your brake booster/master does not look like any 1976 booster/master I have seen...which is why it probably doesn't fit.

This is what SOR lists;
Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 014 Land Cruiser Brake Master Cylinder, Booster & Pedal

EDIT: what you doing with your old parts?

 

[wesintl]

Dallas used a 97 geo metro.. check it out

https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owner...nd-restoration-info-thread-7.html#post3988272

 

[girraffe]

Dallas used a 97 geo metro.. check it out

https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owner...nd-restoration-info-thread-7.html#post3988272

I have one of these at the house. let me know if interested. maybe this will make up for the locking gas cap...

oh and have the line splitter and flanges already made

 

[dmaddox]

Yes, the geo metro setup works like a champ and fits in there snug as a bug.

It is also very easy to setup and gap the thrust rod on the back side. It has the same 4 hole bolt pattern, so your adapter will still be slick.

EDIT: I would also like to point out that you DO NOT need the proportioning valve.

 

[baja1d]

Is the proportioning valve only used when running discs all the way around as opposed to front discs and rear drums?

 

[Living in the Past]

Is the proportioning valve only used when running discs all the way around as opposed to front discs and rear drums?

I believe the proportioning valve is used with mixed drum and disc brake axles. I know my 8/75 thru 7/80 setups have them. Once you get away from a stock setup I'm not sure. Toyota never had four wheel disc in a 40 series

 

[baja1d]

Now I'm confused. I'm going to be running disc up front and drum in the rear. I was planning on using a porportioning valve until I read dmaddox's last post. He stated that I do not need to use it. Any clarification would be helpful

 

[foxfab]

Any 2 circuit brake system needs a proportioning valve. The front brakes must lock up before the back brakes or you're in for a fun ride.

 

[akeyzoo]

Travis,
Where are you with the booster/proportioning valve?

I have a 64 and I am trying to sort out what to do. If you went with the geo master and booster what did you use for a proportioning valve?

Chris

 

[foxfab]

If your master cylinder doesnt have bult in proportioning valves, you can use a Wilwood manual proportioning valve. You can just get the valve from Summit Racing or you can get a kit with the adapters from Front Range Off-Road. You may also need a residual valve to keep pressure on the pads or shoes. Wilwood also has those. 2lb residual for disk brakes and I believe 8 lb for drums? Dont quote me on that.

 

[akeyzoo]

Thanks, purchased a proportioning valve from summit.

 

[baja1d]

I didn't use a proportioning valve. Refer to post #8. Dallas helped me out and walked me through it over the phone. Brakes work GREAT and this has been the best upgrade to date. Shoot me a PM with your number and I'd be happy to give you a call. Here's what I did:

1. Fought with the old drums for about a year or two.
2. Broke an axle and decided to upgrade to fine spline.
3. Picked up a pair of '76 axles $600-Craigs List
4. Ordered a Brake Booster adapter from JT Outfitters so that I didn't have to cut my firewall- $40..I think
5. This is when I discovered that the brake booster I had wasn't going to work and went looking for a solution... This thread started
6. Found out about Dallas' solution and located a '97 Geo Metro Brake Booster...$30
7. Like everything from JT Outfitters, I had to slightly modify the BB adapter so that it would fit. Some grinding and drilling of new holes. Everything that I have ever ordered from this company has had to be modified and I do NOT recommend them at all.
8. After getting the adapter worked out, I had to extend the linkage for the pedal. I did this by welding the heads of two Metric bolts (with the same thread pitch of the BB) and used a coupler to the BB rod. I believe that each bolt was 1.5"
9. At this point I discovered that there was no way to attach the adapter to the firewall and then attach the BB. There just wasn't enough room for a wrench with the firewall support in the way... lots of cussing... turned out to be an easy fix. What I did was drill out the 3 threaded nuts that are welded to the firewall and orginally held the old m/c, gound off the part that extends into the cab, and then welded nuts on the inside of the adapter. Now I could attach the BB to the adapter and mounted the two to the firewall from inside the cab.
10. Then all I had to do was re-route some brakelines... This is very easy. Harbor Frieght sells some tube bending devises that work great. I think the tubing from NAPA and HF Tools cost less then $30
11. At this point I discovered that my '64 brakeline nipples wouldn't fit the '76 brake calipers... Some more cussing and then went back to NAPA for the right parts... Maybe $10 + a $15 flaring tool from ACE Hardware.
12. Got everything hooked up, blead the brakes, and took her for a spin. Had to adjust the rear drums but it's been working great ever since!!!

My numbers come to about $725 which includes the new axles. New axle seals and a few odds/ins the upgrade was definately less then $800.

-Travis

 

[akeyzoo]

Travis,
Excellent post, thanks. Your rear axle replacement is not necessarily related to the brake booster and master cylinder, right? Still drum brakes, right?

My rear axle is stock with drums. Also, before I sent my tub to the body shop (where it is now), I cut out a section of the firewall support assuming I needed the clearance.

Curious how you got lucky enough to not need a proportioning valve. I assume the front disc and rear drums on your rig have different brake fluid/pressure requirements. That's cool.

BTW, i am fabbing all new brake lines, so flaring and using different size/thread connectors is no issue since I am essentially starting from scratch.

I assume I don't need a firewall adapter except only for bolt pattern adjustments, and I presume I could fab what I would need for that.

Chris

 

[baja1d]

You are correct with not needing the adapter if you have already cut the fire wall. The new brake boster will most-likely have 4 bolts so you will either need to drill 4 holes through the firewall or fab a plate to accomodate the 4 bolts and the three that go through the firewall. Seems like most do the later with fabing a plate. Just to clarify, I'm running disc up front and drums in the rear. I have no idea why Dallas and I didn't need a proportioning valve but it works neither the front or rear lock up prematurely. Here's a couple of pictures.

 

[76mustard40]

Do you know how long the geo BB/master setup is? I have a 2f in my 40 and wonder if i can go the same route.

 

[cjgoode]

This is a great post, I did a buy it now offer on this geo metro setup for my 1962 fj40 that I am getting 1977 axles to swap in. Cant wait to get it done like this.