I think I just messed up my Land Cruiser. I was changing the air filter and unscrewed the 2 screws the MAF plug and pulled it out. Now it won't start. Please tell me I didn't just do serious damage.
Did I just do something really dumb? Truck won't start- MAF issue? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Big Green Machine
- Start date
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assuming you have a AFM/VAF and not a MAF, then you did.
man a year ago when I did the same thing you did I thought I was the dumbest guy on this board 
You'll have to take the VAF out, cut the sealant around the black cap and then there will probably three prongs in there that attach to a circuit board which will have to be resoldered carefully. I had my mechanic do it for $25 and then everything worked again.
Good luck hopefully you get her running again
You'll have to take the VAF out, cut the sealant around the black cap and then there will probably three prongs in there that attach to a circuit board which will have to be resoldered carefully. I had my mechanic do it for $25 and then everything worked again.
Good luck hopefully you get her running again
OK, you didn't do serious damage, but you busted your AFM.
By pulling out the connector you pulled the small leads off the circuit board inside. Lots and lots of information on this one. There is a small spring clip that keeps the connector in place. In the future, simply lift the spring clip and unplug the connector.
- Thread starter
- #5
I have a 93 Land Cruiser so I think it is the AFM/VAF. Repairing it looks difficult. Would a used one be a good option?
if you can find one, good luck, new ones go for about $700 and there is no aftermarket as far as I was told.. unless you had a 95-97 Landtank has a MAF that those trucks use for cheaper than OEM
- Thread starter
- #7
Yep I found the spring clip so I now how to do it in the future. I will give the soldering a try. Thanks for the info.
Found it. The innards of your AFM will look something like this-
the terminals labeled '1' and '3' don't really need to be soldered to the board, just jumped together, since that's what happens on the board anyway.**
**DISCLAIMER: YMMV. No guarantee that which worked for me will work for you.
the terminals labeled '1' and '3' don't really need to be soldered to the board, just jumped together, since that's what happens on the board anyway.**
**DISCLAIMER: YMMV. No guarantee that which worked for me will work for you.
This forum ROCKS!!!! Did the same thing to my 91 a couple of months ago and it idled high until I loosened it and jiggled it. It has gotten progressively worse over the last couple months and has been barely idling the last few days. Pulled the black cover, soldered the loose connections, and good as new! The forum saved me $300+. I LOVE this place!
I sure wish folks would stop messing with those screws...
I agree. I was an idiot! I did not see the little spring clip because it was getting dark. Anyway, since I fixed it last night it runs better than it ever has since I got the truck 4 or 5 months ago. Must have always been a problem. Maybe 20 years of vibration. I would totally recomend trying this fix before spending $300+. Should this fix be in the FAQ section?
