Roof Rack seals finally (1 Viewer)

[landtank]

I just got the samples of the rack seals I designed for the 80. I've changed my mind a little from the initial idea which was to have them come with an adhesive back. This turned out to really get pricey on the material side which lead me to a simple 1\8" rubber that was designed to fit closely around the nutserts for both alignment and water proofing. I also bought 5mm stainless steel bolts to go along with the gaskets.

Here are some pics of the gasket and the rack installed.


I've added a thread in the vender area for pricing

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=429054#post429054

 

[woody]

Rick, 2 things>

1> move post 2 to Vendor, point people here for discussion...

2> once you do that, put me down for a set with bolts...my new-to-me 80 has the f@#$@#in roof rack (as cdan so loves to call it) and I need me a set of those....


now for some tech....do the center bars have similar issues as the outer rails, or are they not as big an issue?

I was just lookin at the rack today, trying to decide whether it outta be pulled or what....

 

[C6H12O6]

As far as adhesive goes, have you tried adding anything at time of install to help the seal? 3M has to have some fancy waterproof spray adhesive that might help, or does the rubber alone solve the problem? I would be a little concerned that water/dirt might still migrate under the rubber unless it is sealed.

 

[landtank]

To be honest I don't have that much rust under the feet, but the rails are stuck down with some adhesive from what I've seen.


Now that I have the seals in place I don't think the adhesive is needed but you could add your own of course.


I made the holes where the nutserts are the same size as the nutsert and since the seal is slightly thicker than the nutsert the rack posts where the screw passes through also fits inside the seal.

I think the big issue with these racks is those posts sit on top of the nutsert and allow a gap to form between the boot and the roof, allowing water to accumilate and not easily dry since it's sheltered from the outside by the boot.

 

[LX_TREME]

Just be carefull when you try to tight the screw back into place, you just gotta gently feel and turn it into thread and dont push/ force'em too much. Last time i had lost 1 nutserts b'coz i push'em too much with philip screw driver and the nutserts went in

 

[Rich]

Bodyshop supply store should be able to recommend and provide an approprate adhesive.

I would also suggest applying a soft, gooey, non hardening sealant underneath the heads of the mounting bolts. Each mounting bolt sits in it's own little collection pond, and the water otherwise eventually drains under the boot. I would also put the same goop ontop of the nutsert itself to help seal that. Permatex No 2 Form a Gasket may work well.

I would also consider adding to the lowest point both front and rear of the boots a small weep hole to let ensure water can drain out from the boots. I don't think there is anything you can do to ensure water doesn't get into the boots, but you can certainly help ensure that it can get out. Keep in mind some insects may think the boot makes a fine home if you add the drain holes.

I think the rubber pads are an excellent idea to help prevent abrasion and rusting of the paint.

 

[loquito]

Hey that is the same thing I did a while ago, it did not generate any interest.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=28575

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=35386
post 25

 

[OZCAL]

I think the rubber pads are an excellent idea to help prevent abrasion and rusting of the paint.

- Yes, this is the major issue. Based on what I am reading/seeing above and Landtank's apparent understanding of the issue, these seals look like they will prevent the abrasion damage done by the feet of the factory rack. If they can be further sealed around the factory screws, they really could prevent immersion rust damage to the nutserts and surrounding roof/paint.

Landtank it's too bad you didn't work for Toyota from 91 through 97!

I'll look forward to beta testing a pair on my brother's 97.

David

 

[landtank]

.

I would also suggest applying a soft, gooey, non hardening sealant underneath the heads of the mounting bolts.

I was actually thinking of trying an O-Ring on the bolt.

 

[loquito]

I was actually thinking of trying an O-Ring on the bolt.

A gasket/washer made out of the same rubber makes for a nice seal. Punch a hole in the rubber, insert screw, trim rubber to same size as screw head.
Seal's very nice and push's up the screw head slightly eliminating the puddle effect around the head of the screw.
Mine has been doing great for quite some time.
You will still have water infultration around the seam of the two halves of the foot. Weep holes are the answer.

Dam I had this same idea

 

[Summer]

Are These Easy To Install? What Can We Do About The Strips In The Middle Of The Outer Racks Rusting/Leaking?

 

[Beowulf]

now for some tech....do the center bars have similar issues as the outer rails, or are they not as big an issue?

Woody (and Summer)

The 5 rails that are mounted directly to the roof are not as big an issue. There have been a few reports where the front tabs have worn into the paint but most people find these rails in good shape. I would still remove the rail screws, seal, and replace them with SS screws.

-B-

 

[Beowulf]

Hey that is the same thing I did a while ago, it did not generate any interest.

Your post generated interest but you let that interest wane when you didn't respond to the request for pictures.

-B-

 

[loquito]

Your post generated interest but you let that interest wane when you didn't respond to the request for pictures.

You are right -B-
I had to get two people's help the one time I posted pics.
I hope LandTank sells a bunch, mine have worked and stayed put.
Steven

 

[landtank]

No interest at all, except for 1.

 

[Beowulf]

Rick,
I would have jumped on these a year ago. Since then I have removed the factory rack and bought the fantastic Outback aluminum rack.

For those of you with the factory rack: you REALLY need to get these pads from Rick or, at least, do something similar on your own. Those 4 feet on the factory rack will eat right through to bare metal if nothing is done.

-B-

 

[IdahoDoug]

I'd strongly suggest an adhesive on the paint side of the gasket - nice by the way. Otherwise, capillary action will suck water under it. 3M makes an excellet product called Automotive WeatherStrip Adhesive. It's also the right stuff to resecure those pesky fender flare rubber strips.

DougM

 

[loquito]

I'd strongly suggest an adhesive on the paint side of the gasket - nice by the way. Otherwise, capillary action will suck water under it. 3M makes an excellet product called Automotive WeatherStrip Adhesive. It's also the right stuff to resecure those pesky fender flare rubber strips.

DougM

Hey Doug
I never thought about that, I'm going to pull mine back off at the end of summer and see how well it did.
Oh and I got my headlight protectors, very nice, Thank You.
Steven

-B- is right, one of my screws was stuck tight in the uluminum guide that is inside of the foot, My paint was down to primer with a little rust around the nut-sert. I considered this PM to stop the rust and destruction of the paint if you keep the rack on. My wife likes it and won't let me pull it till I have a replacement. Landtank's is a good PM if you are ganna keep your Toyo roof rack for whatever reason.

Landtank I sent you a PM.
Steven

 

[Summer]

I Would Like To Get Some Of These For My Lx 450. Where Is The Vender Area To Purchase Them?