best birfield grease (1 Viewer)

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Jan 14, 2010
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Location
Spokane Valley, WA
Some of yall recommended putting grease into the square valve behind the rotor, into the birfield joint. What grease would yall recommend to put on the birfield?
 
Valvoline Palladium (3% moly) if you can find it. My local NAPA keeps it in stock. Some do, some don't.
 
and both of those I'm going to be able to put into that square valve and feed into the birfield?
 
and both of those I'm going to be able to put into that square valve and feed into the birfield?

Correct.

I typically just use a long zip-tie to guage how much grease is in the knuckle cavity. I did my axle service soon after purchasing my 80 but did top the knuckles off within an inch or two of the top. They were WAY low on grease and both took over one tube each. Shame on you, PO.
 
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Simply remove the plug, insert grease gun and pump away...
I find that as the cavity fills with grease the grease gun end begins to float indicating that the cavity in nearly full. At this time you may want to spin the wheels, check grease level again and either buttom her up or add more grease.

A full tube to one and a half tubes if your "balls" are dry.

I like to see grease and not rust or crap on my "balls" for the grease not only lubricates the insides but helps keep water from coming inside.

Use moly grease, read the label.
 
and both of those I'm going to be able to put into that square valve and feed into the birfield?

Correct, get it in tubes to fit the grease gun. Turn the steering towards the side your working on, clean and remove the plug. Look into the hole, it should be about half full, if not I add ~1/4-1/2 tube in each side, drive a week or so and recheck.

...knowing it wont go into the joint itself where its needed most?

Really,,, the new has mixed fully with the old in every rig that I have owned. It lubes the birf, knuckle bearings and spindle bushing as intended.
 
Is moly grease or CV joint grease better to use? I don't think the moly grease has as much moly in it as the CV does. Anyone?
 
Boy was mine thirsty... BAD PO
 
..........Really,,, the new has mixed fully with the old in every rig that I have owned. It lubes the birf, knuckle bearings and spindle bushing as intended.

X2. This was also documented and proven by IdahoDoug in another thread by adding a different colored grease and dis-assembly after some use to check it out.

On the OP's question, best grease is purely a matter of opinion and use of rig. Most important point, though, is that the grease you use, on the knuckles, be moly fortified. Some of us here in Central Oregon are using extreme pressure - multi-purpose - "Moly-Graph". It's available at NAPA and is in black containers. Available in tub or tube by Sta-Lube (CRC). It gets its name from having graphite as well as moly for lube qualities. Slightly more expensive than your normal moly fortified.
 
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a bit of trivia on the fill port:
I found that when I use the regular end (with the quick coupling) on my flex hose off the grease gun, that it fits the fill hole just exactly and kinda gets stuck there when I'm pumping away. Eventually when the grease gets up there it will finally pop the tube end loose and squirt out and make a mess.
I've taken to removing the quick coupler from the flex hose and just insert the male threaded end. Much less mess that way.
Actually, it's not that bad to have a greasy plug area, it's easier to clean later on than a dry one.
I just go to excruciating lengths to clean the entire plug area very well with a compressed air water gun before opening it up. Sure don't want grit in there with the lovely Birfs...
 
I've taken to removing the quick coupler from the flex hose and just insert the male threaded end. Much less mess that way.

I just did this job yesterday, and having the coupler so tight worried me, in that it might force grease past the oil seal rather than air out the top, as it should. I did the same, removed the coupler and felt better. I then got even more anal and wanted to see what was going on in the knuckle while I shot grease in there, so I removed the ABS sensors. Much easier to see, and of course next time I won't bother removing the coupler from the grease gun.
 
Why does it have to be moly fortified? What would be wrong with something like Coastal Premium Hi-Temp Grease?

Thanks

This has been discussed before, but IIRC you could use the multi-purpose high temp grease in a pinch - like to get you home from a field fix. But for longevity and best lubrication in that area, stick with the moly fortified like the specs call out.
 
Moly grease is water repellent. Most other grease is lithium fortified and it tends to absorb water. You hope that you never get water in your knuckle, but if it does...
 
CAT brand $8 a tube from RINGPOWER

Moly in the Knuckle and Birf
High Speed in the wheel bearings and hubs
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Guess I'll be finding out tomorrow what's left in my front axle. Looks kind of dry and crusty on the outside of the knuckle. Between PO neglect and the joke that happened when I asked the dealer to "service the front axle" and got a crappy wheel bearing repack, I may need more than just making sure it's filled properly.:rolleyes:

Parts from CDan in the morning, looking forward to it - sorta.
 

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