Snapped Alt Stud (1 Viewer)

[adamsclarke]

OK,
So after some advice from the crazy dash lights, i thought I'd check my alt connections to make sure all was in good order. I was glad to see the main power cable bolt was a little loose which was likely causing all of the lights to flicker on bumps. There were quite a few metal shavings that were magnatized etc since it's likely been that way for a while.
I went to tighten it a bit and the stud was so worn, it snapped at the lightest touch. So now....how screwed am I?
Is the stud servicable. I'd love a quick fix while it's in the truck

 

[cruiserdan]

We are working on a?

 

[adamsclarke]

ah yes...the details.
1994 fzj80.
alt is relatively new, so replacing it would hurt my feelings a little

 

[cruiserdan]

The B+ stud is part of the rectifier. 27357-16310, list $97.03, net $72.77.

The alternator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled.

 

[adamsclarke]

Sweet, Thanks.
Looks like I'll have to JB weld it for the weekend and hope it hold till I get time next week.

 

[cruiserdan]

That should be interesting.

 

[adamsclarke]

yup, interesting is the nice way of putting it

 

[adamsclarke]

In case anyone ever wonders how long a JB weld and duct tape fix will last on the alt lead. The answer is 10 blocks. Maybe 1 or 2 more if there are no bumps.

 

[cruiserdan]

 

[Pak Meul]

I had the exact same problem a couple of weeks ago. I bought a 6mm bolt and a couple of nuts and washers. It cost me about a buck total. I was able to tack weld the bolt head to what was left of the stud on the alternator.

Turned out to be a cheap - permanent fix, but I did have to take the alternator out to do it. If you don't have a little MIG welder or a friend that has one, I'm sure any shop that has a welder, like a muffler shop, might do it for you. For someone who knows what they are doing it should only take a minute. ( It took me about 10)

I didn't want to spend that much for the rectifier for an alternator that had 170K miles on it. After talking to Dan it made sense to buy a new alternator if I was going to go so far as to do the rectifier. Now, if something else goes on it, I'll feel better about going the whole cost for a new alternator since, with a damaged rectifier I wouldn't be able to get the refund for the core on a remanufactured unit anyway.

 

[Tools R Us]

IIRC it's just a copper/brass bolt. I didn't take pix when I had it apart last year, but a search would probably net a pic of it? Sometimes they have a unique shaped head, square, D shaped, etc, nothing that a little grinder/file time wouldn't solve. Most starter/alternator repair shops stock them.

 

[adamsclarke]

Yeah, I'll see if I can take some time from "mother day weekend" to pull the lat and weld a bolt to it. Worst case, I'll replace it anyway.
It's little thing like this that make me miss my crawler. While it was slow on the road, at least I wouldn't have to keep stealing my wife's car

 

[Pak Meul]

I figured it was a good idea not to get it too hot. I just tacked one side, then let it cool before tacking the other. I didn't want to chance ruining the rectfier.

 

[adamsclarke]

Well, I got some time today to pull the alt. I decided since the old stud was clean gone, I'd weld the bolt to it. Seems 100% ghetto, but worked great.

I also found out there was no tensioner on the alt, the PO must have lost it, so it was old school belt tightening.

Man, that was like child birth though...getting that big old alt outta that small little hole between the upper rad hose and the frame. Even with the battery box removed, it was just a chore..are there any better removal pointers for next time incase my ghetto fix doesn;t last long.