Free (!) advice on how to remove a balky OEM roof rack! (1 Viewer)

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e9999

Gotta get outta here...
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Belated free(!) advice on how to remove a balky OEM roof rack!

I'm really annoyed with my roof rack guys...
I'm down to the last spnining stuck screw/nutsert but it won't budge...
Fed up!

I made a major mistake when trying to remove the screws, so here is my take on how to do this best:

At the slightest sign of screw balkiness to unscrewing, stop! Don't force it! First douse the thing with Kroil for a period of week (s). It may not go in and may not do anything any way cuz these screws are sealed with some by now hard clay like material.
Try again, gently.
If there is still resistance, STOP!
Proceed to drill all the balky screw heads. This sounds drastic but it is really easy, will only take an hour. You can then simply lift all the brackets out. It is MUCH better than the dreadful alternative I have to contend with: You got a screw frozen into the nutsert and if you put too much torque on it, the nutsert starts spinning and you can't remove the screw or mount anymore, and you also can't drill the screw head out anymore, sadly, and it won't come off. There are then 2 obvious ways to deal with it: saw through the bracket mount or remove the headliner. The first choice busts the rack set, the second is a pain.

On the other hand, if you drill all the screws out, and remove the rack, you have now full access to the screws and nutserts to Kroil them, superglue them, torque them off, anything you want. Much better

So be smart, don't do what I did!

dang little :censor: :censor: :censor:

enjoy!

E

(added: this may not work with the skinny rails, I'll have to check what happens when you drill the heads on those. The body of the screw may still hold the endpiece in place... more later)

added: don't actually douse the thing with Kroil, it could stain your headliner. I did it one drop at a time over a period of many days. No stain noted, but then it turned out that most of the screws were sealed with some bizarre goop, dried by now.
 
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Eric,
just fyi,
nutserts will likely spin out pretty easy once you apply a 1200 rpm drill to the screw with any pressure at all. they really arent designed for that. fwiw the easiest way to remove a nutsert taht is in and spinning is to grab it with some GOOD vice grips (model 12r is my personal favorite) and then try adn drill it out. other wise .045 cut off wheel on a grinder works as well.
Dave
 
PHAEDRUS said:
Eric,
just fyi,
nutserts will likely spin out pretty easy once you apply a 1200 rpm drill to the screw with any pressure at all. they really arent designed for that. fwiw the easiest way to remove a nutsert taht is in and spinning is to grab it with some GOOD vice grips (model 12r is my personal favorite) and then try adn drill it out. other wise .045 cut off wheel on a grinder works as well.
Dave


thanks Dave.
Actually, I was able to drill out easily all the screwheads (used a slow speed) except for the one that spun from the very beginning (after just a slight amount of torque from a hand screwdriver). I'd like to grab the dang thing with visegrips but can't get to them except by busting the mount open or underneath by removing the whole headliner...
So I guess my point was to drill these suckers out before you make the nutserts spin!

You just can't afford to have one nutsert spin. It'll make the whole job an order of magnitude harder. And there are something like 16 or so of them. So I say "Drill Away and be done with it, don't take a chance!"

Now, of course, this assumes that you won't make a nutsert spin by drilling the screwhead when you could have easily unscrewed the thing, eh! That's why I suggested to try gently to remove them first.

But eh, you know how much worth free advice is, right...?

E
 
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Are these racks worth anything to anyone? I'm planning to remove mine (well it's on my to-do list). From all I've heard here I figure a portable band saw is my least painful option, don't even try the screwdriver. My biggest concern there would be if any screws or inserts turn while the blade is trying to cut them. A Sawzall might work, but might rattle the nutserts right out of the roof.
 
I'm interested in removing and painted the 4 or so skinny flat rib rails that are between the two outer roof racks.., but now I'm scairt. From what I recall, two screws holding the end caps in place, then just slide them off. I assume the same nutsert setup applies here as well. What to do... what to do...? Seems like drilling the screws out would screw up (no pun here) the nutsert threads. What holds the nutsert in place other than the tightness of the screw? In other words, even if you get the screw out okay, what keeps the nut from spinning during re-entry?

Thanks,
Rookie
 
Rookie2 said:
I'm interested in removing and painted the 4 or so skinny flat rib rails that are between the two outer roof racks.., but now I'm scairt. From what I recall, two screws holding the end caps in place, then just slide them off. I assume the same nutsert setup applies here as well. What to do... what to do...? Seems like drilling the screws out would screw up (no pun here) the nutsert threads. What holds the nutsert in place other than the tightness of the screw? In other words, even if you get the screw out okay, what keeps the nut from spinning during re-entry?

Thanks,
Rookie

no,no. The nutsert is "crimped" on the roof sheetmetal. It's not held by the screw. You just drill out the screwheads, at least on the outside brackets. The thing with the skinny rails is that the screw body may still hold the end piece in. Now I'm guessing that if you are lucky enough to get one end piece off, you can slide out the rail on that side and then lift up the remaining piece. Anybody?

E
 
scottm said:
Are these racks worth anything to anyone? I'm planning to remove mine (well it's on my to-do list). From all I've heard here I figure a portable band saw is my least painful option, don't even try the screwdriver. My biggest concern there would be if any screws or inserts turn while the blade is trying to cut them. A Sawzall might work, but might rattle the nutserts right out of the roof.

Scott, if you are going to trash yours, I'd love to have the left rear mount parts if they are not sawed off, as I may need to cut mine open to remove the blasted thing...
E
 
Anybody remember "Wolfcreek Pass" by C.W. Mcall?


Measure height of Cruiser to top-of-rack. Open garage door to 1 1/2 inches lower than 1st measurement.

Drive out of garage.....:flipoff2:
 
Get that thing off of there....

LOL ... I never read Wolfcreek but that's pretty funny. :beer:

I agree that these racks are a must NOT have item on your truck.

I had a little trouble getting my screws out (can't recall how) but a couple of the nutserts came with them. So now I have to install new nutserts in a couple of spots. That's been on the to-do list for 8 months now.

They really don't hold all that well (at least mine didn't). They will spin and then maybe fall out pretty easy.

There should be a law about taking a perfectly good roof and then mounting crap on it by drilling holes. What's it gonna hold anyway? .... ok skis I guess....

:rolleyes:
 
darn, this thread must have hit a spot. About 100 views already in 2 hrs.
Dang thing!
E
 
That thing is a rust-breeding POS.


I will have to come clean here and admit that I did like selling them to the new car department a few years ago.....:rolleyes:


I would not sell one to a friend though.....:flipoff2:




Junk, you want one?.......:D
 
And then to think I actually wanted to keep mine in the beginning. :confused:

I ordered nutserts from Dan (a whole freaking bag) and then we brought in another crossmember (from Kansas I think) so that I could replace a couple of peices. WTF was I thinking?

I ripped off my rear deflector too, they have same issues with rust.
 
cruiserdan said:
That thing is a rust-breeding POS.


I will have to come clean here and admit that I did like selling them to the new car department a few years ago.....:rolleyes:


I would not sell one to a friend though.....:flipoff2:




Junk, you want one?.......:D


dude, you should see what the roof seem to look like under the remaining bracket. That thing is uuuuugly! I'm even afraid to remove the mount and see it in its full unglory! The 3 others are sort of OK underneath.

WARNING: the rusted out crapped out one was a bit loose and this may have contributed to water getting under there. So go check yours for looseness and sin no mo'!

E
 
Riley said:
And then to think I actually wanted to keep mine in the beginning. :confused:

I ordered nutserts from Dan (a whole freaking bag) and then we brought in another crossmember (from Kansas I think) so that I could replace a couple of peices. WTF was I thinking?

I ripped off my rear deflector too, they have same issues with rust.


well, actually, I think with some thinking, goop, nutserts, and gaskets, one could make that thing work somewhat and stop breeding rust. But then you can still carry only 150 lbs or so. Although I must admit I was tempted to use it for tent, sleeping bags and the like. I like the rails actually. On the 100 there is no rail so if you put anything up there, it starts to scrape the paint right away...

E

add: I got one of those soft luggage bags to fit on roofs. Fits perfectly between all 4 crossbars I think. Would have been great. Sadly, never got to use it. Now I'll put it on my offroad trailer soon to be baptized...
 
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Riley said:
And then to think I actually wanted to keep mine in the beginning. :confused:

I ordered nutserts from Dan (a whole freaking bag) and then we brought in another crossmember (from Kansas I think) so that I could replace a couple of peices. WTF was I thinking?

I ripped off my rear deflector too, they have same issues with rust.


You got replacement parts to fix an existing problem. You did not buy the whole thing and proceed to rape a perfecly fine roof..............Had you wanted to do that I would have said :flipoff2: :D
 
Riley said:
And then to think I actually wanted to keep mine in the beginning. :confused:

I ordered nutserts from Dan (a whole freaking bag) and then we brought in another crossmember (from Kansas I think) so that I could replace a couple of peices. WTF was I thinking?

I ripped off my rear deflector too, they have same issues with rust.


Riley, I may tap you for a couple of 'serts if you have too many and feel like helping another rack victim...!

E
 
Ya Dan.... we discussed the pros and cons so I was informed. I was a big boy, as they say... but feeling quilty and stupid at the same time.

e9999 - get a gutter mount rack and cover up the holes. The Outback is awesome.

I've still got the "strips" on the roof and I guess they should come off too. Too much stuff and not enough time.
 
scottm said:
Are these racks worth anything to anyone? I'm planning to remove mine (well it's on my to-do list). From all I've heard here I figure a portable band saw is my least painful option, don't even try the screwdriver. My biggest concern there would be if any screws or inserts turn while the blade is trying to cut them. A Sawzall might work, but might rattle the nutserts right out of the roof.


Scott, if you don't mind destroying the mounts, you are fine. just cut the mounts open on one side and then you can grab the screw with visegrips and cut it easily. (just try not to do that to the left rear one...!

E
 
Rookie2 said:
I'm interested in removing and painted the 4 or so skinny flat rib rails that are between the two outer roof racks.., but now I'm scairt. From what I recall, two screws holding the end caps in place, then just slide them off. I assume the same nutsert setup applies here as well. What to do... what to do...? Seems like drilling the screws out would screw up (no pun here) the nutsert threads. What holds the nutsert in place other than the tightness of the screw? In other words, even if you get the screw out okay, what keeps the nut from spinning during re-entry?

Thanks,
Rookie


I did not have any problems with rust or stuck screws on the middle ones, it was the main rails that gave me fits (or more accurately the USDS one ) judging by my experience you should be fine for what you want to do but YMMV

Got all my holes plugged a few months ago, got my sunroof and headliner back in, still need to go back and finish paint and remove the sticky stuff adhesive left on the roof from the center rails, fortunately the 80’s roof is not a high visibility area
 
RavenTai said:
I did not have any problems with rust or stuck screws on the middle ones, it was the main rails that gave me fits (or more accurately the USDS one ) judging by my experience you should be fine for what you want to do but YMMV

Got all my holes plugged a few months ago, got my sunroof and headliner back in, still need to go back and finish paint and remove the sticky stuff adhesive left on the roof from the center rails, fortunately the 80’s roof is not a high visibility area


unfortunately, one of the 'serts on one of the central rails is a spinner for me, so it can happen...
E
 

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