Fuel pump- $700 ??? Am I getting screwed? (1 Viewer)

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Oct 14, 2007
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Fargo, ND
I think the title pretty much says it all. My 97 just wouldn't start (108K miles), brought it in to the dealer and he says it needs a new pump. About $330 for the pump, the rest is labor. He says they have to remove the tank and the seats to get at it. Does this sound about right? Thanks, Dan.
 
It would be very unusual for a fuel pump to go bad with only 108K on the clock?

What did it do? Turn over but not start? No previous symptoms?

Find another dealer. Or do it yourself.

g
 
Yes, it turned over but wouldn't start. I sprayed starter fluid into the air filter while cranking it over and it started right up (as long as the starter fluid was there). No previous symptoms. I bought it in Chicago and drove it home (about 550 miles) two weeks ago. It has run great ever since day one. Now that I think of it, maybe it did have a little trouble starting just prior to it not starting at all. Maybe once or twice it didn't fire right up. I can't do it myself and there are no other dealers around. There is another mechanic I would take it to, but they quoted me around $550 or so, and the place it's at now is $100 to diagnose (included in the $700), so it's not worth towing it elsewhere. I guess I pretty much just have to pay up.
 
How much for the pump? How much for labor?
 
You can get a new fuel pump from Cruiserdan for much less and replace it your self. You put up the middle row setas, lift up the carpet, open the access panel and viola,there is the fuel pump.


However, there are a lot of things that can keep your truck from starting and some are very cheap and easy to fix.

Try this link from the FAQ to help determine if it is fuel or spark

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=115816
 
Hmm, I'd be pulling the access cover to the fuel pump and testing the pump with a battery.
 
One thing that would be more likely to go bad would be the coolant temp sensor...
 
Romer, you positive about the access panel on a 97? Not doubting you, but the dealer said they have to drop the tank AND REMOVE the seats to swap it out. Is he full of it? Thanks very much for the replies all.
 
LCWannabe;
Sounds like you are stuck with the dealer; at a minimum, I would ask them, no tell them, that you want to speak directly with the mechanic who diagnosed the problem.
And have him tell you exactly what he found and how he found it.

But before you play that card; look on the dealers repair sheet; the mechanic writes down on that what he found. Then ask to speak with the mechanic and ask him about the other things mentioned on the forum.
g
 
Dealer replaces the pump....realizes that wasn't the problem. Then checks the fuses. Replaces .10 cent fuse. Hands you back the truck and says..all fixed, $700 please.

I would be exploring the electrical circuit of the fuel pump system VERY carefully before I went to the hassle and expense of replacing the pump. I'm not familier with that fuel pump system, but other rigs have many things that can keep a fuel pump from running, starting at the ignition switch and continuing to various sensors.

Good luck.
 
X2 what Bryan89 said;
I have been that route many times; most of these dealers have no shame.

g
 
For Comparison, '86 4-Runner EFI 22RE 267k miles and OE fuel pump....

I once took my VW in for service due to no brake lights, dealer said it was missing a fuse? Then VW issued an official recall for defective brakelight switches sometime afterwards.... Dealers sometimes do things in their best interest and not the owners.
 
I'm certainly not one to defend the dealers or other mechanics as I'm generally on the losing end of these deals, but in the interest of fairness, let me just add the possibility that the dealer offered their best educated opinion of the problem's cause and maybe they got it wrong.

Or maybe they got it right - it seems we don't have enough info to know just yet. Perhaps the mechanic did check the fuses and other items and determined that the next step was to test the pump and replace if necessary. It is certainly possible that the mechanic wrote something to the effect of 'remove rear seats, open tank, remove and test/replace pump' and the service advisor read it and told you 'looks like it is the pump, which requires that the rear seats be removed and then we drop the tank to get to the pump' simply b/c he/she didn't know that the cruiser tank can be accessed from above.

Just a word of caution before we hang yet another dealer. But if history is any indication of dealer honesty . . . . I'll get my rope. ;)
 
I can have my pump out in 15 minutes because the 80 has an access plate through the floor. I also doubt it's your fuel pump. I also agree with you that basically you have no options but to pay the $700. I would clarify that you are relying on them to correctly diagnose and correctly fix the problem and inquire about the warranty if(when) it turns out to be a dirty EFI relay contact you could have pulled out, blown on and put back.

DougM
 
Romer, you positive about the access panel on a 97? Not doubting you, but the dealer said they have to drop the tank AND REMOVE the seats to swap it out. Is he full of it? Thanks very much for the replies all.

I have a 97 and thats where mine is
 
KC;

If u have a copy of the FSM, look up the fuel pump procedures and copy them to paper. If u must let the dealer do the work, give them the paper copies to let them know that u know how to do this and won't let a dealer price gouge.. I'll bet they drop the charges for the fuel tank removal - jeeze.

U don't need to remove fuel tank - period.

This could also be a fuel filter (clogged) problem. There are two (2) of them. A sock on the fuel pump and a filter under the intake manifold [hard to get at].

...
 
When I had my 80, I thought it was gonna be a bad fuel pump as well, but it turned out to be an electrical issue. I would bet that is what you have. Get the dealer to open up the access hatch and plug 12 volts to the pump while he cranks it. I bet it starts...then throw the egg on the dealer face and tell them they are a bunch of scam artists....


good thing I'm not bitter, eh?


bk
 
Storytime about a fuel pump repair:

Years ago I had a car that wouldn't start; took it to one place; they put in a new fuel pump; still would not start and they could not fix it; so, had it towed to another shop, they worked and worked on it; finally, after a few weeks, they had me come pick it up; $900!!! And this was an old, oldsmobile.

I almost hit the floor; but, I put it on my credit card (smart).

I then drove off; the next day, while attempting to start the car I smelled smoke, looked under the car and saw the smoke was coming from the top of the gas tank (location of the wires to the pump); like WTF!

So, I stop cranking.. Then I have it towed (again) to the local Oldsmobile dealer; they have it a day, then call me up and tell me; "our mechanic says that whatever the other guy did to hotwire your fuel pump, he can't figure it out and we cannot work on it for liability reasons".


OHHHH KKKK I say.

Well, I have it taken to yet another shop, yes this is #4; at this shop, they finally figure it out; the second mechanic apparently had run wires all over the place to bypass the various relays, switches, fuses, etc when he could not figure out what was wrong. The 4th mechanic was able to trace all the errors and put it all back to the stock by-the-book set-up.

Oh, almost forgot; remember the second mechanic who hot wired it? He also had accidentally crushed my original gas tank when he had it out of my car; backed over it with another vehicle. I knew it didn't look right (all scratched up,etc) when I looked under my vehicle; he had gotten it from a junk yard.

So, what is the point? Put the repair bill on your credit card; I did, and I disputed the work for the #2 repairs($900). Of course, I was still out a few towing charges, dealer diagnostic fees, and the final repairs; but I had a new fuel pump; which, in the end, was not the problem; the original non-start problem was due to a $15 relay.

G
 
Fuel pump relay is a classic cause of this. Use the emergency start procedure link I posted earlier in this thread.
 

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