Fj62 + 2f + h55 (1 Viewer)

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Fj62 + 2fe + h55

About a year ago i picked up a 89 with a knock. The oil galley plug had been replaced with a bolt, I figured the bottom end would be toast, but it was cheap. I didn't realize how expensive it is to rebuild a 3F, so i'm going to swap in the 2f. I can buy a donor 60 and rebuild the motor for less than the 3F rebuild. After the third donor truck i finally have a good crank. While i'm there, figure i might as well swap out the tranny. After researching here on mud it seams like a pretty straight forward swap for both the motor and tranny. Some light fabbing on the tranny cross-member and brackets on the motor. I'll post my progress an i go so you guys that have done these swaps can add your .02.

the brown 60 is an 83 where I got the 2F i'm using and the 62 is in the back ground
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i'm swapping in a pedal bucket from an 87. the only difference is the auto bucket doesn't have the place to mount the clutch pedal. what a PITA to get it out
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The firewall is already stamped for the clutch master. just drill the holes
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I'm going to use a manual transfer. what are these two sensors on the transfer on the auto. do i need to use this half of this case with the front half of a manual case to keep these sensors? I have cases from 83,86,87,89. if i don't us these sensors will it cause problems leaving these unhooked on the 62 wiring harness? can i remove all the vacuum stuff from the 62 and just leave the harness unhooked at the vacuum thingys on the firewall that always go bad. and just plug the vacuum line that goes to those thingys?
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A little porn, Dad's 74 w/no rust
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I didn't realize a 3FE would cost more to overhaul than a 2F. What costs so much more? It seems like a big step backwards to put the 2F in.

From what i could tell the parts to rebuild a 3f were way more expensive. THe 2F is a larger engine, add the fuel injection on the 62, the best of both worlds
 
So you are talking about putting the 3FE head on a 2F block and making a 2F-E? When you say the 3FE is way more expensive to rebuild, you are talking about just the 3FE block?

If he isn't, going back to a carbed motor would pretty much make it non smogable..

do a 2FE instead.

the manual and tcases are a good idea tho ;)
 
I'm going to use a manual transfer. what are these two sensors on the transfer on the auto. do i need to use this half of this case with the front half of a manual case to keep these sensors? I have cases from 83,86,87,89. if i don't us these sensors will it cause problems leaving these unhooked on the 62 wiring harness? can i remove all the vacuum stuff from the 62 and just leave the harness unhooked at the vacuum thingys on the firewall that always go bad. and just plug the vacuum line that goes to those thingys?

The big front one is your front axle engagement switch (i.e. 4WD light), the rear two are the transfer neutral switch (lights up a light on the shifter assembly to let you know that park won't hold the truck when the transfer is in neutral) and the low range switch (which leads to automatic engagement of the front axle when in low range). I don't think any of them are really needed, especially if you are putting in a manual. I'm contemplating cutting the wires for the low range switch on my truck to give me low2..... Take a look at the transfers you have, sometime through the 80s (86?) the size of the idler shaft was increased, likely worth using the 87 case to keep the larger shaft, but have a manual case.


If you happen to build a frankencase and have pieces of the 62 case left over, I'd be interested in the rear half of the aluminum case itself.
 
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So you are talking about putting the 3FE head on a 2F block and making a 2F-E? When you say the 3FE is way more expensive to rebuild, you are talking about just the 3FE block?

yes, i'm building a 2fe, its the 3f short block thats expensive to rebuild
 
The big front one is your front axle engagement switch (i.e. 4WD light), the rear two are the transfer neutral switch (lights up a light on the shifter assembly to let you know that park won't hold the truck when the transfer is in neutral) and the low range switch (which leads to automatic engagement of the front axle when in low range). I don't think any of them are really needed, especially if you are putting in a manual. I'm contemplating cutting the wires for the low range switch on my truck to give me low2..... Take a look at the transfers you have, sometime through the 80s (86?) the size of the idler shaft was increased, likely worth using the 87 case to keep the larger shaft, but have a manual case.


If you happen to build a frankencase and have pieces of the 62 case left over, I'd be interested in the rear half of the aluminum case itself.

so if i use the 87 case, will the 4wd light switch work with the 62 wiring? I'd like to keep the dummy light for the wife. can i just leave the conectors for the other 2 switches unplugged. it sounds like they are wired to the switch and the auto shifter which i won't have any more. I'll be doing the 2 low mod on the man case
 
Not to hijack, but are you parting the brown 60 out? Awesome project, btw!

the brown one is already gone, what do you need?
 
how much better is the later block with the thrust washers oposed to the earlier with the main bearing with the sides that serve as thrust bearings. My good crank came from a 83 block w/o the washers but i have a 86 block that uses thrust washers. are the cranks interchangable between the years?

anyone used the 20 over piston/ring kit from SOR. I didn't really want to puch the block that far, but maybe thats the way to go
 
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so if i use the 87 case, will the 4wd light switch work with the 62 wiring? I'd like to keep the dummy light for the wife. can i just leave the conectors for the other 2 switches unplugged. it sounds like they are wired to the switch and the auto shifter which i won't have any more. I'll be doing the 2 low mod on the man case

You'll have to take a peak at the connectors on the 62 and 60 to see if they are the same. If the connectors aren't the same, I bet the switches can be interchanged. You should be able to leave the other 2 unplugged, is the a place for either on the manual case? I'm doubtful.
 
You'll have to take a peak at the connectors on the 62 and 60 to see if they are the same. If the connectors aren't the same, I bet the switches can be interchanged. You should be able to leave the other 2 unplugged, is the a place for either on the manual case? I'm doubtful.

I'm pretty sure the connector fo the 4wd light is the same on the manual case, i think i'll use the whole manual case. the manual case only has the 1 connector. do you know if i can remove all the vacuum shift stuff and leave the connectors to the actuater things on the firewall unplugged and plu the vacuum w/o causing any problems?
 

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