engine fuse

[cruiserjunktion]

My 82 60 has won't idle sometimes.

I traced the problem back to the engine fuse on the fuse panel.

Sometimes, the fuse doesn't carry power from one side to the other, causing zero idle circuit.

I know this because I tested it with a volt meter.

The fuse is NOT the problem, i have had the same problem occur with 3 known good fuses.

I pulled the entire fuse panel from under the dash and all the wires/ connections are tight on the back.



Slamming the drivers door or hood causes the fuse to carry power across the circuit, allowing it to idle again.

The problem comes and goes. It seems to happen a couple times a week.

Ideas or suggestions appreciated.

 

[Spike Strip]

Mine was doing the same thing (minus the door slamming) and when I replaced the Emissions Comp. it fixed it. The emissions box controls the ground.

The green connector (to the idle solenoid) at the carb. When it won't idle, check for power at the connector. If no power, the two wires that go to the idle solenoid on the carb, ground the white wire w/blk stripe, that will bypass the emission control unit. Just put a ring terminal on it and ground it to the carb body, under a screw.

 

[2mbb]

The power goes from the battery through one of the fusible links, through the ignition switch, through the "gauge" fuse, to the ignition relay. The ignition relay then provides power to the "engine" fuse. If power is intermittent to the "engine" fuse then you should check these other components, too. Otherwise, you might have a break in the wire which would mean isolating the broken wire and replacing it.

 

[cruiserjunktion]

Mine was doing the same thing (minus the door slamming) and when I replaced the Emissions Comp. it fixed it. The emissions box controls the ground.

The green connector (to the idle solenoid) at the carb. When it won't idle, check for power at the connector. If no power, the two wires that go to the idle solenoid on the carb, ground the white wire w/blk stripe, that will bypass the emission control unit. Just put a ring terminal on it and ground it to the carb body, under a screw.

Does this make the idle circuit stay "on" all the time, when you bypass the emission control unit?

Are there any side effects of leaving it set up this way?

I don't have a converter and most of my smog stuff is gone.



Today the truck is idling just fine.

 

[Spike Strip]

Yes, it energizes the idle cut solenoid - that's what you want. If the emissions box is going out, the solenoid will not get juice.

No side effects, that I know - particularly if you're desmogged. The idle-cut solenoid does come into play on deceleration, to lean-out the mix, but I think that's a smog concern, and negligible according to the carb guru I've asked (Mark A.)

If you can get your hands on a diff emissions box, try it and see if there's a change. Or try grounding the solenoid wire by fishing the terminal out of the connector, then you can put it back if you're unhappy.

 

[NocalFJ60]

I would guess a loose connection if the problem comes and goes. Pull the connector out of the emissions board and check all the leads and reseat it. Also if it does it again then wiggle the connector and see if it fixes it. You can also wiggle the connector while it is idling and see if it dies.