Wanna hear about my horrible day? And see if you can help with an H55F problem?

[Tofudebeest]

Last post in my build thread...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...ion-birth-hj62-tofudebeest-5.html#post3717066

 

[Dirtgypsy]

OK so i tried to follow what you are having problems with:

1. clutch in no grinding
2. Clutch out grinding and no shifting

I tried to look for it in your thread but you are very long winded so please fill me in.

what exactly did you do with the shift linkage?

Did you at anytime put the transmission on its nose to work on the transfer case?

did you pull the shifter or shifter housing?


Could be a number of things. first is see if you can shift high/low 2wd/4wd on the transfer.

Next if the transfer was apart or the shift linkage apart it could have slipped and is now not engaging the shift fork. Pull the linkage and manipulate the lever by hand to see if it will engage. contrary to some you can shift the transfer by hand but it is tough and needs to be in just the right spot. if it was apart then it is likely that the fork may not be on the synchro ring.

If you tilted the transmission forward the 5th/ 4th synchro/ shift ring thingy will slide forward and engage both gears. Pull BOTH covers on the BODY and you can access the transmission housing cover from the cab without removing the whole shebang. Use a screwdriver to slide the shift ring back to disengage.

I had similar issues when I intalled by 5 spd so I will try to check back often to help as best I can.

clint

 

[Tofudebeest]

OK so i tried to follow what you are having problems with:

1. clutch in no grinding YES
2. Clutch out grinding and no shifting YES

I tried to look for it in your thread but you are very long winded so please fill me in. Sorry, family trait and lots on my mind.

what exactly did you do with the shift linkage?
I didn't do it, D did, and very little, just a small bend. See below for more details.
Did you at anytime put the transmission on its nose to work on the transfer case?
NO.
did you pull the shifter or shifter housing?
No.

Could be a number of things. first is see if you can shift high/low 2wd/4wd on the transfer.
Yes, no problem.
Next if the transfer was apart or the shift linkage apart it could have slipped and is now not engaging the shift fork. NO, not since it was first installed in Sheila (the other truck, the HJ60) and subsequently driven at least 3000 flawless miles. Then entire powertrain (tranny and transfercase shifters removed) moved to the 62 (Tofudebeest) and it sat for ~9 months or so. It has flawlessly shifted (under no power) since we got it running about three weeks ago and has driven normally (in 1st in both 2WD low and 2WD high) the 100 feet from yard to driveway and back three times.
Pull the linkage and manipulate the lever by hand to see if it will engage. Did that, no problems. contrary to some you can shift the transfer by hand but it is tough and needs to be in just the right spot. if it was apart then it is likely that the fork may not be on the synchro ring. HAS NOT been apart.

If you tilted the transmission forward the 5th/ 4th synchro/ shift ring thingy will slide forward and engage both gears. Pull BOTH covers on the BODY and you can access the transmission housing cover from the cab without removing the whole shebang. Use a screwdriver to slide the shift ring back to disengage.
Familiar, did this when first installed, as I said...quite familiar with the procedure. No tilting except having raised the ass with a jack and lift stands (18"-24" maybe), same for the front when D did the knuckles. Normal ascent/descent angles, nothing unusual. Remember, the prior truck wheeled with this drivetrain, never separated at all since installed, and it drove 100% A.O.K. for months after that before being pulled.
I had similar issues when I intalled by 5 spd so I will try to check back often to help as best I can.
Thanks.
clint

Thanks, Clint this helps me get more specific...
OK, this was a perfectly functioning, broken in 5-speed, in an HJ60, with a rebuilt transfercase I got with the new h55f, from James @ cruiserparts. This set-up drove like clockwork for about four months before I decided to get a new body, the FJ62. Pulled the driveshaft as one piece, moved it over, and have been establishing electrical, etc. starting from late Oct. a year ago and then nothing until 5 Saturdays ago when I had it towed (flatbed) 40 miles, and there we've wrenched every Sat. except the Fri before yesterday.

Never split the case, never did anything but cold shift it, put the transmission shifter back on. The little white cap intact and functioning like new, the blue shifter seat bushing looking brand spanking new. Easily put the t-case into high, low, 2, 4 (though never locked the hubs) by hand through the access panel or from under the truck. Then, yesterday we reinstalled the t-case shifter, but it wouldn't just go back on, by either trying to put the shifter on first, or the linkage going first on the 2/4 control arm. Just wouldn't get there, just a few mm too short to round the bend and slide into its place. So....D loosened and then tightened the 24 mm nut on the linkage arm pivot bolt (perhaps adjusting it out of range), you know, the one at the base of the bolt on which the shifter pivots for the vertical shift (high/low). He then deliberately bent the linkage connecting rod (the one with the double bent hook like thing on the shfter end of it,to get it to align right to put the shifter back on it's pivot bolt and put the retaining nut back on.

DENNIS, got more detail than that? What was the little event there where you said "this could be serious, if it drops..."? What were you talking about?

That was it...nothing left out, that I know of, just refilled both with new 90W and replaced the fill bung caps with the inset allen head and magnet. Also tapped and replaced the transfercase idler shaft tab bolt hole and bolt, not too long.

Q: can the linkage work and shift as expected, in 2 and 4 and high and low, and somehow cause the synchros or shifter fork IN THE TRANSMISSION to get moved or blocked or misaligned, otherwise cause transmisson issues as follows:
When in what feels like N (because there's 4 to 6 inches of side to side play, not like it is in any gear). You can get what feels like 1st, but back in what's supposed to be N, you can't shift all the way over to 5th/R, you don't feel the familiar little bearing click like when you get to 5th/R, and do roll a bit when the clutch is out, I think no matter what you are in, including "N". 3rd is unsure, 4th is vague, and at any position, including what feels like N, you get moderate, not too violent or frightening grinding, with little vehicle movement, like it is in two gears. When D was able to wrestle it into what he thought was 1st and also R, the truck CRAWLED, like it was BARELY in gear. Super slowly, he moved it back to the yard on side of the house, 50 feet away.

D says it will synchro from R (when you can find it) and down...5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd, 1st and then won't synchro back up. I didn't try it, D may not have felt it behaving normally, just better and sufficient to limp it 50 ft.

Does that clear it up?

If I can't figure this out, who would be best to webcam communicate with from a laptop in the truck, to see it live in motion?

 

[TURNMEOVER]

The linkage you are refering to is tc related and has nothing to do with the shifting of the h55. Yes it wil go 4h,4l,2h. But as tofu said the h55 will sinc when you can find reverse then go through the gears in reverse.
When the h55 is placed in any gear it is acting like 2 gears are engauged and when you release the clutch it will stall.

 

[Bret]

The transfer linkage piece that can drop should be the low high selector. If it drops I think it won't shift, not engage both at once, (I don't think you can w/transfer case anyway). Would it be feasible to pull the top of the tranny? If something is not attached it should be pretty apparent. I had trouble with the reverse when I first put mine together. It was kinda a pain to get it aligned ( but I'm special ed sometimes too). Give a call if there is something I can check on mine for you, I have the same drivetrain, just a little easier to get to.

 

[Tofudebeest]

We will see...
I need to get a fresh look and feel, not spent/hungry in the dark. All will be clearer then, I'm sure. I'll post pix, if still unresolved in 2 week, or earlier, perhaps, if I take day off work. Isn't Columbus day coming up?

 

[Dirtgypsy]

Thanks, Clint this helps me get more specific...
OK, this was a perfectly functioning, broken in 5-speed, in an HJ60, with a rebuilt transfercase I got with the new h55f, from James @ cruiserparts. This set-up drove like clockwork for about four months before I decided to get a new body, the FJ62. Pulled the driveshaft as one piece, moved it over, and have been establishing electrical, etc. starting from late Oct. a year ago and then nothing until 5 Saturdays ago when I had it towed (flatbed) 40 miles, and there we've wrenched every Sat. except the Fri before yesterday.

Never split the case, never did anything but cold shift it, put the transmission shifter back on. The little white cap intact and functioning like new, the blue shifter seat bushing looking brand spanking new. Easily put the t-case into high, low, 2, 4 (though never locked the hubs) by hand through the access panel or from under the truck. Then, yesterday we reinstalled the t-case shifter, but it wouldn't just go back on, by either trying to put the shifter on first, or the linkage going first on the 2/4 control arm. Just wouldn't get there, just a few mm too short to round the bend and slide into its place. So....D loosened and then tightened the 24 mm nut on the linkage arm pivot bolt (perhaps adjusting it out of range), you know, the one at the base of the bolt on which the shifter pivots for the vertical shift (high/low). He then deliberately bent the linkage connecting rod (the one with the double bent hook like thing on the shfter end of it,to get it to align right to put the shifter back on it's pivot bolt and put the retaining nut back on.

DENNIS, got more detail than that? What was the little event there where you said "this could be serious, if it drops..."? What were you talking about?

I am sure he was referring to #64. Bad but not impossible to fix without dropping the transfer case.

That was it...nothing left out, that I know of, just refilled both with new 90W and replaced the fill bung caps with the inset allen head and magnet. Also tapped and replaced the transfercase idler shaft tab bolt hole and bolt, not too long.

Q: can the linkage work and shift as expected, in 2 and 4 and high and low, and somehow cause the synchros or shifter fork IN THE TRANSMISSION to get moved or blocked or misaligned, otherwise cause transmisson issues as follows:


the answer to this is no it can't.


When in what feels like N (because there's 4 to 6 inches of side to side play, not like it is in any gear). You can get what feels like 1st, but back in what's supposed to be N, you can't shift all the way over to 5th/R, you don't feel the familiar little bearing click like when you get to 5th/R, and do roll a bit when the clutch is out, I think no matter what you are in, including "N". 3rd is unsure, 4th is vague, and at any position, including what feels like N, you get moderate, not too violent or frightening grinding, with little vehicle movement, like it is in two gears. When D was able to wrestle it into what he thought was 1st and also R, the truck CRAWLED, like it was BARELY in gear. Super slowly, he moved it back to the yard on side of the house, 50 feet away.

Sounds about right. I think your problem is that you are not seated properly in your shift housing. I think if you pull the lever and manupulate the housing lever (#62) you will find that the gear shifter is not seated or that this has shifted somehow or better yet it might not have been in Nuetral when pulled. In what you describe it seems to me the gear shifter is hitting the lever and partially engaging gears but not "shifting them" If you pull the lever and the plastic cup take a look. Although not totally obvious it will probably be just enough out to cause your symptoms. Put a screwdriver in it and move it around to feel the definate "click" of neutral, manipulate the clutch to make sure then reintall the shift lever.

D says it will synchro from R (when you can find it) and down...5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd, 1st and then won't synchro back up. I didn't try it, D may not have felt it behaving normally, just better and sufficient to limp it 50 ft.

This sounds right as well. Mine did the same thing only I had reverse and that was it. Not only had the synchro rings slid forward I had the lever in the wrong spot.

Does that clear it up?

If I can't figure this out, who would be best to webcam communicate with from a laptop in the truck, to see it live in motion?

I have a web cam and IM if you need to go this route.

 

[Tofudebeest]

This does sound right, indeed. Come to think of it, we put it in gear to make phasing the rear driveshaft easier, and then pulled the shift level. Boy, if this is all it is, I'll be one happy boy.

 

[Tofudebeest]

OK, thread closed...
Back to the main story:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...ion-birth-hj62-tofudebeest-5.html#post3719551