body lift - auto shifter linkage - how to?

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euclid

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May 15, 2002
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Location
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Since I finally have my susp lift sorted out like I want it, and now that the full floater is done I'm going to do a body lift soon. I want to do them before I move much further into body protection. I'll have to redo my sliders and front bumper mount, but I eventually plan on building a custom rear bumper, cutting the quarters and doing quarter protection. If I go ahead with the body lift now I won't have to re-do all that later.

I've searched and found several folks on the board that have done 1" body lifts on 62's. (peepers, Jason)

I'm gonna do 2".

Has anyone done 2" with an auto? I'm concerned about the shifter linkage. I think I can fab something that will work, but I'd be interested to see what others did.

My fan shroud is already cut, so it isn't going to be an issue.

Other issues?

BTW, This isn't a pros and cons of body lift thread. I've searched and seen all that.
 
I think you will probably be ok. The tranny shifter linkage on mine doesnt bind and seems to have a pretty good angle too it (i replaced the shifter bushings and dropped the linkage under the truck, so i had a chance to figure out how it works). The tcase shifter will be rather low but i dont think it will hit the body in low range (wouldnt be a bid deal to deal with if it did).

You may have to cut the entire bottom out of the shroud though, i had to cut a slot and flatten out portions of the shroud so that the tranny cooler lines would clear the bottom of the shroud on mine. Id offer to post some pics but id have to pull the bottom of the shroud off to do so.

-Matt
 
I was thinking I may end up pulling the shroud off and making a new one anyway.
 
An electric fan with a built in shroud may be easier.
 
Hadn't thought of that. May go that way. I've always had problems with my truck running cold in the winter, and that would help there too.

More likely I'll just drop the radiator with some simple little brackets.
 
First weekend in May is closer than you think, Greg. May I suggest you have your mods fully tested before heading west? Of course you will want to have done all basic maintenance including a full axle rebuild before then which, now with the rear full floater, means both of them. Brakes are important and you'll appreciate that they are in perfect working order. Night wheeling will be an option so a Tangen headlight harness will help. You need to get your body armor in place? Get 'r dun, Vern.
 
First weekend in May is closer than you think, Greg. May I suggest you have your mods fully tested before heading west? Of course you will want to have done all basic maintenance including a full axle rebuild before then which, now with the rear full floater, means both of them. Brakes are important and you'll appreciate that they are in perfect working order. Night wheeling will be an option so a Tangen headlight harness will help. You need to get your body armor in place? Get 'r dun, Vern.

Axles are both good. Brakes are good. Tangen harness is 4 years old now (although I do have a short to track down).

I would like to have completed my body armor for Moab, but if not.... it's just sheet metal! :bounce::bounce:
 
Bump. Anyone else?

I wish I could offer you some valuable insight, but you are familiar enough with my mechanical abilities to know that that isn't going to happen...:doh:

Good luck! Sounds like you've done a lot to your rig since I've last seen it.
 
sorry Greg
just found the thread. I think you might run into so shift linkage issues with a 2 inch lift if you leave the shifter and linkage mounted in the stock way. my 1" lift has trouble shifting into 'L' and that is due to it hitting the back. I don't think it is a deal breaker but you will have to adapt something to make it work right. not sure of your fab skilz but you minght want to cut the shifter mounting section of the tranny hump and fab it back in lowered an inch or so. you could even cut the ection out weld on some 1x1 square tubing then bolt that on. just trying to think outside the box. you don't have to worry about clearance uisssue cause you are raising it up.
might have to cut out the back end of the transfer shfter it will ssit real low.
Jason
 
I have a 2" lift and an auto. I was able to adjust everything to work with out any big mods.
 
I have a 2" lift and an auto. I was able to adjust everything to work with out any big mods.

Great news!

Hopefully it will go as well for me.

Thanks Jason for the feedback. I'm going to take the shifter apart tomorrow and start to mock some things up.

Thanks yall.
 
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Ended up getting a 1.5" lift. It's going in now.

Radiator hoses: did yall get longer ones?

I'm going to document the tranny shifter mods, if I have to do any. Should be pretty easy.
 
want a spare shifter to practice on?

From the looks of the linkage, it would be super easy to lengthen the linkage arms (both on the shifter and on the tranny) to put the linkage back on the correct plane..
 
want a spare shifter to practice on?

From the looks of the linkage, it would be super easy to lengthen the linkage arms (both on the shifter and on the tranny) to put the linkage back on the correct plane..

Got one. Thanks though.

I hope it is easy.
 
1.5" BL installed. Shifts a little tighter, but I don't mind. I think it may wear the joints of the shifter likage quicker, but shouldn't be that big of a deal. I got about 1.75" lift, probably because the old body bushings were completely shot.

Went to my secret behind the hospital spot to flex it out, see how much tire room I gained (35's?). It won't stay in low. I'll have to extend the t-case shifter, no big deal.

Without Jason's note to just drill a hole in the back end to get to the two most rearward mounts I would have been scratching my head for a while.

I had to significantly modify (read: hack up) the fan shroud to get my 1.5" As usual I am pressed to get ready for a ride, and wish I had more time. With more time I would lower the radiator rather than modify the shroud. I may go back later and do this. I could see that the fan shroud mod would work for 1" but that's the limit.
 

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