Possible Group Buy - Flat Steel FJ40 Rear Fender Protection (2 Viewers)

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@hey you has his set up for sale. See the latest messages in this thread.

New group forming as of 8/30/2021:
1. @RevISK
2. @Green Bean
3. Will615

4.

Last group all shipped as of 7/10/2021:
1. todt
2. hey you
3. Darkwing58
4. Hugh Heifer

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I have a new vendor that @pjohnson pointed me to. They have a $600k laser cutter. :)

Last pricing was this. New pricing should be similar, but TBD:

$235 a set, +20 $315 a set, +30 if you want countersunk holes at time of ordering. $320/pair, counter-sunk holes included.

Crating is extra, price depends on what material I can find vs buy. Latest shipments have been in cardboard, so no crating costs.

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3/16" steel
inside edge is traced off my uncut stock '78
4" wide
As shown they move the wheel well back about 2", you may want to trim at the front for stock wheelbase. (?)
Holes are punched, countersinking is up to you, or use button head screws
The front-most hole is not punched in case you want to tip them down in front a little and trim the bottom or otherwise reposition it
The new program has the correct inside curve at the front inside bottom corner
My rig in the pics has the axle moved back 2".
To mount them in the stock location you'd have to trim around the gas tank door if your year has one
In the stock location one hole likely falls in a spot on the tub that has no access for a bolt, so open it up, use a nutsert or glue in a decoy
Great option to repair poorly cut fenders. That's why I made them.

Feel free to suggest something different and discuss it, but the plasma table program is already done and changes will co$t.

$275 a pair crated + shipping for one set, paid in full at time of order.
$235 a pair crated + shipping if we can get four orders


1. phillyFJ40
2. 1911
3. Bull08
4. laveycrafter
5. freewheeling frank
6. vincent85


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Here's where I originally attached them. I trimmed the bottom between this picture and the painted one above.

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And the screws and countersink bit I got from McMaster-Carr:

Edit:

(Don't use; doesn't last) This countersink: McMaster-Carr
Solid carbide :) countersink: McMaster-Carr
These screws: McMaster-Carr
Black-coated stainless: McMaster-Carr

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Original thread: Hot off the presses! 3/16" thick rear flares
 
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That counter sink is for wood and won't last long.

You'll need one for metal like this one. A bit more pricy.......
verzinkboor.jpg

Rudi
verzinkboor.jpg
 
Great option to repair poorly cut fenders. That's why I made them.

Great idea, I need these too and will take a set. PO cut my fenders poorly and installed cheesy plastic flares, which I removed. PM sent also.
 
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That counter sink is for wood and won't last long.

You'll need one for metal like this one. A bit more pricy.......

You're telling me. It only lasted one side, and wasn't that fun towards the end.

Pics of my rig from Rubithon:

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Looks great. I need to budget out for the next couple months and see if this can fit in as part of my fall projects.
 
these countersinks are a bit cheaper and are great with steel and alum. the angle should match the bolt head angle as well.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#countersinks/=o3yyq2

The one I got is right off of that page. There are lots there and the plain steel ones just don't last very long. I went with the cheaper one and it wasn't the right decision.

I just bought a chop-saw blade over the weekend and made the same mistake. When will I learn? :bang:
 
I have this same issue where a PO put flares on and cut the tub. I'm going to go back to original and am buying the piece that they cut out. If I wasn't going back, your option is way better than flares that really screw up the look it the truck IMO, especially if you're going tall and skinny.
 
I have this same issue where a PO put flares on and cut the tub. I'm going to go back to original and am buying the piece that they cut out. If I wasn't going back, your option is way better than flares that really screw up the look it the truck IMO, especially if you're going tall and skinny.

Just found this thread, and I think Ed's solution would be good for you too. In my mind, you could trim these hack menders to fit INSIDE the wheelwell if you wanted to, then run a bead of MIG around your hacked up wheelwell to attach it much easier than trying to stitch a sheetmetal wheelwell opening to your existing sheet metal. Prolly the same amount of post-op bondo involved, and Ed's piece would probably survive a compressed tire better than the sheetmetal would.:idea:

Good idea Ed.:cheers:

Best

Mark A.
 
Just found this thread, and I think Ed's solution would be good for you too. In my mind, you could trim these hack menders to fit INSIDE the wheelwell if you wanted to, then run a bead of MIG around your hacked up wheelwell to attach it much easier than trying to stitch a sheetmetal wheelwell opening to your existing sheet metal. Prolly the same amount of post-op bondo involved, and Ed's piece would probably survive a compressed tire better than the sheetmetal would.:idea:

Good idea Ed.:cheers:

Best

Mark A.

I agree but my rig is too nice to wheel. Won't see much more than dirt roads. I'm trying to take her back to how she sat at the dealership.
 

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