2005 LC - Aux. Fuel Tank Options?

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jgolden

jgolden

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I'm looking to add more fuel range to my Cruiser. The 2005 has the charcoal canister in the rear so none of the South African or Aussie tanks will work. I really don't want to mess with the canister, I'd prefer to work around it. I'd be happy with 15-20 gallons.

What are my options (beside jerry cans:flipoff2:)?

I was thinking of a custom tank mounted in the spare location that gravity feeds into the main tank. Use a basic petcock to regulate the transfer. I guess the only option for filling the Aux. tank would be the split filler neck?

Thanks in advance for your help
 
I sorta remember glancing at that rear mounted charcoal can but its been a while. Assuming its not mounted to one side can it be relocated so that you could fit a custom tank up there? Mine is 25-gallons; I would think you could have one made in the 15-ish gallon range that would allow clearance on one end for the charcoal canister?

You can purchase the Toyota OEM dual filler neck (either the mechanical flapper style or the twin tube like I have) from Dave Stedman at Japan4x4 (and all related parts).

Run an aux pump to transfer fuel from aux tank to the main tank is the simplest. Don't go gravity lest you really piss off the government boys if you get caught.

But a rear bumper that could carry 3-Scepter's or Wedco's will probably be cheaper ;)
 
Thanks for the info.

Do you have contact information for Dave Stedman?
 
spressomon said:
I sorta remember glancing at that rear mounted charcoal can but its been a while. Assuming its not mounted to one side can it be relocated so that you could fit a custom tank up there? Mine is 25-gallons; I would think you could have one made in the 15-ish gallon range that would allow clearance on one end for the charcoal canister?
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Did some extensive research on this a few years back. Even had an OEM tank in hand. But the canister (which sits on the US driver side above the spare tire), is located by a number of hard lines. Those would have to be cut to do any relocation. Since I did not want to void my warranty or get the Smog police in an uproar, I finally decided to not make the modification and sold my tank kit to Snook. So NATO fuel cans for me, which in hindsight have their own advantages over a sub-tank anyway.
 
Do you guys think a modified long ranger tank would work? I'm thinking of customizing the area where the canister would hit the tank. Basically, recessing that section so it'll fit around the canister.
Would that work?
I'd hate to spend all that time and money for nothing.
 
jgolden said:
Do you guys think a modified long ranger tank would work? I'm thinking of customizing the area where the canister would hit the tank. Basically, recessing that section so it'll fit around the canister.
Would that work?
I'd hate to spend all that time and money for nothing.
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I don't know where and how the canister is located but yes, I previously thought of mentioning that as a possibility, but I had thought the relocation back up to the front as in the earlier models would be a better option. The problem will lie in the actual location of the canister as it may interfere with the fuel pump and sender unit location built into the new tank. Buy the connecting pipes from a pre 2002 model and relocate the canister up front.
 
jgolden said:
Do you guys think a modified long ranger tank would work? I'm thinking of customizing the area where the canister would hit the tank. Basically, recessing that section so it'll fit around the canister.
Would that work?
Click to expand...
That's the way I'd do it. dclee posted these pics of the canister awhile back. The area to watch out for is where the filler tube and pick-up tube go into the aux tank but I don't think that is a problem as it happens somewhere above the spare tire bracket.

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By the look of the canister in the pics it's connected via rubber hose, this could be extended and the canister moved over to the right and up into the space right up against the floor away from the centre strengthening brace, that way less tank chopping would occur . You probably need it as high as possible as the height of the fuel in the long range tank could cause problems getting into the canister. I would still seriously look into the differences with the 2002 and earlier models, it may be just a case of running some hoses up to the engine bay and sticking the canister there, and that means no re-fabrication of the tank. If you leave the canister where it is then I expect problems will occur due to fuel entering the canister and then the extent that you can fill your new tank will be severely limited.
 
Good point on flooding the canister. But is it really possible if you are using a transfer system? The fuel transfers right into the existing pump inlet and isn't able to overfill.
 
Not just a case of overfilling, just a case of a full sub tank with fuel higher than the canister. It would be dependent on how you hook it up for sure, I expressed this as a concern so that if it is piped as an OEM type fitment with changeover this may occur. However even if you are just using a transfer system simply transferring sub fuel to top up the main tank it may be a problem.
How are you going to vent the auxiliary tank, not through the canister?
If the sub vents into the canister piping then sloshing fuel may be able to go into the vent tube and migrate to the canister. This may be a problem anytime the tank is full or being sloshed around if the fuel in the vent line can't gravitate back to the tank. However these are only my thoughts and something I would be looking into if I was installing such a system. Doesn't mean they are correct.
 
My transfer style aux tank system is actually not directly vented to the canister. Any venting goes up the aux filler tube, down the main filler tube into the main tank which is connected to the canister.

I suppose if one can saturate the canister by topping off the main tank at the fuel station, a transfer aux tank can do the same.
 
hoser said:
That's the way I'd do it. dclee posted these pics of the canister awhile back. The area to watch out for is where the filler tube and pick-up tube go into the aux tank but I don't think that is a problem as it happens somewhere above the spare tire bracket. QUOTE]

Thought those looked familiar... ;)

Also to be noted are the three hardlines mounted to the horizontal body rib. Those would have to be cut to fit any OEM or aftermarket aux tank.

edit: BTW, I understand that with time and money, anything is possible, it's just how much time and money you want to throw at it. In my case, since I was and am still under warranty (got the Toyota Platinum warranty specifically in case my Nav unit acts up as they tend to do on the 2004 trucks), it wasn't worth voiding the warranty on the fuel system. That choice might be different for someone else.
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hoser said:
My transfer style aux tank system is actually not directly vented to the canister. Any venting goes up the aux filler tube, down the main filler tube into the main tank which is connected to the canister.
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No problems with that setup then, he just may have to move the canister across. Hoser, I presume there is a pic on here somewhere of your tank showing pump and gauge location?
 
Actually, I should say venting goes up a small tube that runs parallel to the filler tubes. 1st pic of the switch/fuel gauge. Not as slick as OEM but it's nice to be able to see the fuel level at all times. This resides on the center console. The second pic shows a fuel filter and connected to that on the backside is a basic electric fuel pump. A plastic cover protects all those hoses.

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Thanks Hoser
As mentioned earlier, relocating the canister, even slightly, will make the job of modifying the tank easier, with your tank that would be the case for sure, he will have to see if he can get some pics of a Long Ranger tank to look at to see what is needed.
 
Relocating the sender might be easier than relocating the canister... you know, since the tank will be open and all.
 
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hoser said:
Relocating the sender might be easier than relocating the canister... you know, since the tank will be open and all.
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If it were mine I would lenghten the flexible hose to the canister and mount it up higher on the floor. If you have a look in the pics there is a lot of room behind it. Maybe even enough to squeeze the tank in with out modifying it? But if the tank has to be modified, and the canister was put up against the floor, less tank space would also have to be removed, and also no mucking with the sender. This of course all depends on where the sender is in the Long Ranger. It may be on the side?

hoser said:
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