what welder to get? - Page 2

spressomon · 04-21-05, 08:09 AM

I have the 220V Millermatic 175 and love it. I think with the gas, extra wire, leathers, helmet (was free with promotion going on), cart it was around $900. If you only have $500...then get a stick welder and practice practice practice.

e-man · 04-26-05, 09:33 AM

I too am looking for a welder. I don't know how to weld and may not even continue doing it, but I figure I can always just sell the welder if it doesn't work out for me.

What do you guys think of this one? http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...xmt_304_cc_cv/ It is a little bit more expensive than I originally wanted, but appears I will not be left wanting if I get this one.

I'd like to be able to weld on my frame and axles and fabricate bumpers, sliders, roll bars etc.

I also want to make bicycles.

I am just looking right now. I am going to go take some classes at the local junior college before I buy something.

e-man · 04-27-05, 01:09 PM

Is there no one with advice?

Robad · 04-27-05, 08:02 PM

I recently bught a Millermatic 135, 110V mig welder. It does a great job on body pannels and will weld 3/8" steel in multiple passes. Plus I can run it anywhere, it's 110V. I also have a gas bottle and run solid .023 and .035 wire. Cost around $750 complete. I also work for a company that manufacturers welding hoods so that didn't cost as much. I suggest you invest in an Auto Darkening hood too. It makes learning much easier.

Rob

cruiser larry · 05-01-05, 05:55 PM

I have done all 4 oxy-acet.is not what you want.Arc.is ok and tig is best for small jobs.Mig is fast and easy.The easy to learn.Miller would be the one I would buy if you can afford one and for auto work is probley best.

Steve C · 05-02-05, 12:13 PM

e-man, that looks like a fairly high end production welder. Unless you are opening a shop, it may be overkill.

What kind of bikes do you want to make? I don't think the xmt does aluminum. For steel, you don't need to spend that much.

for aluminum bikes I would look at a synchrowave 250. That's what I have. It can weld almost anything to almost anything, but is relatively slow compared to mig. For steel framed bikes, a smaller DC tig welder be fine. For bumpers (1/8 to 1/4 mild steel) an all in one mig (millermatic) would be cheaper and faster.

Plus, the synchrowave 250 has been made for many years. Although I bought new because I didn't know anything about welders, I am convinced that these machines could be bought pretty cheap used.

e-man · 05-02-05, 04:14 PM

Thanks for the input guys! I know that welder is a pro job, but like I said I just don't want to be left wanting. That particular one is Multi-Process TIG, MIG and Stick AC and DC.

When I get the chance I have been reading what I can about welding. I bought a book and it was all over TIG as being the best welding process. The more I learn the more it looks like a good MIG welder will do everything I need it to. Apparently I could do everything I need with a stick welder it would just take longer and be a little uglier.

I want to make Steel bikes. Aluminum should be left up to the big bike shops with all of their hydroforming and other such fancy stuff. Folks that want to ride steel bikes prefer simplicity.

Steve C · 05-02-05, 05:54 PM

For steel bikes, I vote for one of the small DC only inverters (maxstar).

maybe something like this (although I certainly can't vouch for this particular machine):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...511494636&rd=1

It does tig, stick and is cheap.

Eternal · 05-05-05, 10:12 AM

I got a hobart 140 120v with gas and it rocks. It is pretty much idiot proof as it only has 4 heat settings and adjusts wire speed to current flow so you are always getting the optimal performance out of it.
Stick is fine but for thicker stuff and structural, though I wouldn't trust too many peoples skills as well as my own. If you are welding up a roll bar you can make the nice looking welds but think of the first time you go over on it, I would want it to hold together and save my life.
I tack cages, and anything thick with the hobart but have a shop do the final welding.

Ullr · 05-13-05, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junk

aaahhhh, tiggin ss.....

Damn. Now thats a fawkin weld.

I second the opinion that a welder is a lifetime purchase and you should save and get a good one.

Love my Lincoln Invertec V-205 TIG.

04-21-05, 08:09 AM	#31
spressomon IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Reno Posts: 4,892	I have the 220V Millermatic 175 and love it. I think with the gas, extra wire, leathers, helmet (was free with promotion going on), cart it was around $900. If you only have $500...then get a stick welder and practice practice practice. __________________ Modded '99 for overlanding/exploring: 35's, 4.88's, AO drawers, Slee rr, TJM fr, ARB fr locker, ear candy, Waeco CF-50, PowerGate with 2nd battery, home brew sliders & t-case skid plate, 9.5XP/X-line, LF 170's, OEM 864's, Foxes x 4, 12mm BL, Carl's UCAs, ... KE7NCM

04-27-05, 08:02 PM	#34
Robad IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Matthews, NC Posts: 83	I recently bught a Millermatic 135, 110V mig welder. It does a great job on body pannels and will weld 3/8" steel in multiple passes. Plus I can run it anywhere, it's 110V. I also have a gas bottle and run solid .023 and .035 wire. Cost around $750 complete. I also work for a company that manufacturers welding hoods so that didn't cost as much. I suggest you invest in an Auto Darkening hood too. It makes learning much easier. Rob __________________ '77 FJ40, SOA, 396, TH350, NP203 project in pieces right now 2003 Silverado X-Cab, 2500HD, 4x4, 8.1 Vortech, soon to be tow rig

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04-26-05, 09:33 AM	#32
e-man IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Fort Worth Posts: 143	I too am looking for a welder. I don't know how to weld and may not even continue doing it, but I figure I can always just sell the welder if it doesn't work out for me. What do you guys think of this one? http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...xmt_304_cc_cv/ It is a little bit more expensive than I originally wanted, but appears I will not be left wanting if I get this one. I'd like to be able to weld on my frame and axles and fabricate bumpers, sliders, roll bars etc. I also want to make bicycles. I am just looking right now. I am going to go take some classes at the local junior college before I buy something.

04-27-05, 01:09 PM	#33
e-man IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Fort Worth Posts: 143	Is there no one with advice?

05-01-05, 05:55 PM	#35
cruiser larry IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Indiana TLCA# 14109 Posts: 364	I have done all 4 oxy-acet.is not what you want.Arc.is ok and tig is best for small jobs.Mig is fast and easy.The easy to learn.Miller would be the one I would buy if you can afford one and for auto work is probley best.

05-02-05, 12:13 PM	#36
Steve C IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 228	e-man, that looks like a fairly high end production welder. Unless you are opening a shop, it may be overkill. What kind of bikes do you want to make? I don't think the xmt does aluminum. For steel, you don't need to spend that much. for aluminum bikes I would look at a synchrowave 250. That's what I have. It can weld almost anything to almost anything, but is relatively slow compared to mig. For steel framed bikes, a smaller DC tig welder be fine. For bumpers (1/8 to 1/4 mild steel) an all in one mig (millermatic) would be cheaper and faster. Plus, the synchrowave 250 has been made for many years. Although I bought new because I didn't know anything about welders, I am convinced that these machines could be bought pretty cheap used.

05-02-05, 04:14 PM	#37
e-man IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Fort Worth Posts: 143	Thanks for the input guys! I know that welder is a pro job, but like I said I just don't want to be left wanting. That particular one is Multi-Process TIG, MIG and Stick AC and DC. When I get the chance I have been reading what I can about welding. I bought a book and it was all over TIG as being the best welding process. The more I learn the more it looks like a good MIG welder will do everything I need it to. Apparently I could do everything I need with a stick welder it would just take longer and be a little uglier. I want to make Steel bikes. Aluminum should be left up to the big bike shops with all of their hydroforming and other such fancy stuff. Folks that want to ride steel bikes prefer simplicity.

05-02-05, 05:54 PM	#38
Steve C IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 228	For steel bikes, I vote for one of the small DC only inverters (maxstar). maybe something like this (although I certainly can't vouch for this particular machine): http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...511494636&rd=1 It does tig, stick and is cheap.

05-05-05, 10:12 AM	#39
Eternal IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jan 2003 Posts: 246	I got a hobart 140 120v with gas and it rocks. It is pretty much idiot proof as it only has 4 heat settings and adjusts wire speed to current flow so you are always getting the optimal performance out of it. Stick is fine but for thicker stuff and structural, though I wouldn't trust too many peoples skills as well as my own. If you are welding up a roll bar you can make the nice looking welds but think of the first time you go over on it, I would want it to hold together and save my life. I tack cages, and anything thick with the hobart but have a shop do the final welding.