Anyone build with SIPs (Structural Insulated Panels)

[firetruck41]

As the title says... anyone?

[EricG]

I did my foundation with ICFs (Insulated Concrete Forms). I'd consider using it for an entire single floor house if I ever did it again.

Not the same as SIP of course - just something to consider while you're thinking about things.

[Trollhole]

I have been checking on these. My next house will use these. They are not very popular in the south. Yet.

[firetruck41]

Originally Posted by EricG

I did my foundation with ICFs (Insulated Concrete Forms). I'd consider using it for an entire single floor house if I ever did it again.

Not the same as SIP of course - just something to consider while you're thinking about things.

I've thought about those, just haven't been able to warm up to 'em yet.

Originally Posted by Trollhole

I have been checking on these. My next house will use these. They are not very popular in the south. Yet.

They are not popular around here yet, either.

[AJP]

I did my foundation with ICFs (Insulated Concrete Forms). I'd consider using it for an entire single floor house if I ever did it again

used them on my basement recently and they are pretty slick ... quick and strong (well there was a LOT of re bar added)...not sure how practical they would be on a main floor bungalow though...be curious if any one has any comments about that...

Don't know anything about SIPS ... it appears that there have been some wonderful advances in building techniques and material...but when I checked Wikipedia re: SIPS there seems to be some issues to be ironed out.....

[firetruck41]

Not really many issues from what I have read, it is "unconventional" and requires makeup ventilation because it is so tight. The insulation value varies a little w/temp differential, but is still far, far more efficient than stick frame with batt or blown in insulation. As a firefighter I don't care too much about the fire resistance, as long as we get out (we will have smoke alarms and interior fire sprinklers) it can burn to the ground, though the sprinklers will likely easily contain the fire. I am leaning toward polyurethane, which does not have the same problems with fire, though.

[Red40]

I built my last house with them, 2 story colonial. I love the product. Makes a super tight house and keeps energy costs down. 3600 sqft house all electric, except for gas b'up on the heat pump and I don't remember our electric bills going over $200. They are easy to setup and building the shell is very quick, when compared to conventional stick framing. I built it in MD and now live in TX where our electric bills are through the roof and I would love to build another using them or the ICF's and see what the elect bill does.
Jim

[Red40]

Yes you should consider adding an air exchanger to bring in fresh air, we did.
Jim

[AlaskanWheeler]

These type of homes seem to be popular in Canada, or at least there are a lot of Canadian based companies that have customers here in Alaska. I've looked at a few of them and they seem to be a good product and cheap for the square footage. Of the few I've looked at the only limitation they had was that you couldn't use a design that had contures in the structure of the building. The nice thing also is that you could use any design you wanted too, with the exception previously noted.

[45Kevin]

Try these guys for info. They are a local company that ship homes in pieces all over the world

Nascor - Welcome

My only experience with this type of construction was when I did drywall. The house was assembled out of square but you could put a screw anywhere. Very energy efficient.

[albee]

I have used them when building a timber frame houses. It was great to work with, and the R-values are out of this world.

I used attic trusses for storage space, and eliminated the need a for air exchange system.

With the timber frame you can put all of the sheetrock on the outside of the frame before the pannels go on. It was done with 16' sheetrock between the posts.

The best part is that I got to use the scraps to make the biggest and best dog house ever.

One thing to keep in mind when ordering is the difference between wall thickness of sips and stick frame. Every time I have used them I have had to make the extension jambs for all of the windows. Not a big deal, but time is money.

good luck

[bkfj40]

the jamb extensions aren't as big of a deal as they used to be since 2x6 framing has become more of a standard.

It also depends if you use eps or urethane on your r value and corresponding thickness...


bk

[firetruck41]

Thank you all, for the info.

[lowenbrau]

Can you just put asphalt shingles over the roof SIPs? Doesn't the heat kill the shingles?

[firetruck41]

Originally Posted by lowenbrau

Can you just put asphalt shingles over the roof SIPs? Doesn't the heat kill the shingles?

There are differing opinions regarding this. There are some roof manufacturers that approve use of their asphalt shingles directly over the SIps, others require furring and then more sheathing. One study I read showed about a 6 deg F difference between a "hot" and "cold" roof, which was less than the difference between cold roofs of dark and light coloring.

[firetruck41]

I am now leaning away from the SIPs idea, due to the issue of sound transmission. From what I've read, they don't stop sound transmission nearly as well as a standard stick framed wall, and almost act as a membrane to transmit exterior sounds to the inside. The living room and master bedroom will be about 10 feet from a road (corner lot), which is fairly quiet, except for morning and afternoon, when all bus (and other) traffic go to/from the High School and Elementary School that is several blocks away.
I am thinking of 2x6 frame, w/1-1.5 inch closed cell foam, followed with blown in cellulose to fill the rest of the stud space. Closed cell to be a vapor barrier and seal out infiltration, the cellulose works as a decent sound barrier, I think, best of both worlds.

[lowenbrau]

Originally Posted by firetruck41

There are differing opinions regarding this. There are some roof manufacturers that approve use of their asphalt shingles directly over the SIps, others require furring and then more sheathing. One study I read showed about a 6 deg F difference between a "hot" and "cold" roof, which was less than the difference between cold roofs of dark and light coloring.

Interesting, thanks

[haystax]

I was working with an architect firm in New Mexico - Sunlight Homes - that uses SIPs exclusively. I shied away from them because of cost mainly and the fact that you need to be 100% perfect on foundation in order for the panels to match and there is little "fudge" factor when assembling them. Bensonwood and Murus are two good companies but it sounds like you are leaning away from SIPs at this point. ICFs will give you a nearly soundproof, tight home - I like the concept very much more than SIPs personally.

I used Polysteel ICFs for a basement foundation and will be framing the main floor with post/beam and 2x6 walls w/ combination of spray foam and fiberglass batt. The ICFs were much easier and quicker than typical concrete forms and I'm really looking forward to having a livable basement - cost is high but labor is low so it's about a wash for foundation total price. In the end I am conventionally framing and trying to be detail oriented in energy loss areas but realize i won't match either SIP or ICF on R-value alone.

May I suggest Lindal Cedar Homes? I am a new dealer and would love to work with you on a more traditional framed home or post/beam hybrid if interested. PM me if you have some design ideas or want some plans or info. Good luck!