Drywall problem - what to do

[KLF]

I'm gradually going thru every room in my house, freshening everything up, getting ready to put it on the market. I'm working on the addition that was put on the back of the house back in the 70's, getting a new ceiling, paint, carpet, etc. Started cleaning up the walls the other day, mudding up the various holes and dings, I noticed that all the joints in the drywall are cracked. The corners are badly cacked open. Hmmmm...

So, I started digging with a stiff knife. Apparently, whoever did the drywall job was too cheap to tape the joints. There is NO TAPE on any of the joints or corners. Every joint is now cracked open, it's worse above and below the windows where the joint is short and the wall will flex the most.

What to do? I can fake the corners, get some pre-pasted tape then mud over them, it doesn't really matter if the corners are not a perfect 90d angle. But, I don't wanna try this on the sheet butt joints, it will make a "lump" in the wall.

Am I gonna have to have the entire room skimmed?

Did I mention that I hate mudding and sanding walls?

[lcruzrlvr]

Not a professional drywaller just a DIYer whose projects take too long. I have had success with butt joints by cutting down the joint at a 45 degree angle (doesn't have to be perfect) and then taping it with fiberglass tape. First course of mud covers the fiberglass tape flush but not much wider. Use 8" knife on second course - again a thin coat to hide the fiberglass tape and 'smooth' the finish. Last course (if needed) is a 12" knife. Sand with a wet sponge - if you are careful with the courses, sanding won't take much effort nor will it create much dust.

[Thornton]

Go with a paper tape. I've had problems with the mesh tape cracking. The trick is to feather out the joints. Tape with a 4"knife pulling it tight just so you have enough mud to adhear the tape to the wall. Let it dry. Block coat it with a 10" knife make sure you leave just enough to cover the tape and whipe the edges good. After this dries skim it with a 12. You just about want to put it on and take it off just filling in the imperfections. Make sure you thin the mud a little when you tape and skim just mix and no thinning on the block coat. There is times I have put an additional skim coat on. Your going to get a buildup no matter what, the trick is to keep your coats as thin as you can and feather them out wide

[knorrena]

If your selling it and dont care, then try using some DAP (caulking) to fill the cracks. That way you too can be referred to as that POS PO.

Karl

[FJ60Cam]

I would caulk the corners, and don't be stingy get as much in the crack as you can.

On the butt joints, I'm with Thornton, use paper tape and feather it really wide. You'd be suprised how unnoticeable it'll be if you do this.

[-Spike-]

Do it right or don't bother. Yes, you'll have to blend the tape lines out 8-12" on either side of the joints, but it's not the end of the world.

-Spike

[osagecruiser]

x2 spike

[KLF]

OK, I'll give it a try, I can't make it worse, I guess. I have several knives, all the way out to a nice 12"-er. Stopped and bought another tub of mud and a roll of tape tonight.

I can't do a job half-way. It's gotta be done right.

Thanks.

[GeoRoss]

I rarely sand drywall compound/texture anymore. I have moved to using a damp sponge to smooth things out. Much less mess that way.

[KLF]

I've never done the wet sponge method, but I'll have a guy in there this weekend skimming the new ceiling, I'm hoping he'll show me some tips.

What's the deal with this newer "lightweight" joint compound? Is it really that much better and easier to use like the packaging promises?

[GeoRoss]

Originally Posted by KLF

I've never done the wet sponge method, but I'll have a guy in there this weekend skimming the new ceiling, I'm hoping he'll show me some tips.

What's the deal with this newer "lightweight" joint compound? Is it really that much better and easier to use like the packaging promises?

Never used it. I stick to the regular joint compound. I am slow and steady.

[patpend2000]

also don't buy the pre-mixed compound, the dry compound in the bag is much better for sanding an spreading than the pre-mix

[MoJ]

Depending on the width of the cracks and whether you want to take the short cut approach.....get a small tub of DAP lightweight spackling, smooth it out with a plastic knife, paint the wall and done. It's vrey forgiving and you won't need to sand it. I've made quick repairs with it that have lasted over the years.