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#1 |
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Ramblin Wreck
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Georgia Tech
Posts: 5,408
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Changing 4 conductor dryer to 3 conductor
We got a free dryer from a friend, it is a residential model, but has a 4 conductor plug. Our wall outlet is the standard 30 amp 3 conductor (slant blade).
It should be possible to just install a new 3 conductor plug on the dryer, right? How would I wire it? __________________ Bailey Quintrell '74 FJ40--37 Irocks-32 Bolt 'Locks-SM420-ARB-XD9000i-FJ60 PS-MetalTech Cage '93 FZJ80-DD-Part Time 4wd-locked-5" lifted-snorkel-bullbar-315 AT's '97 FZJ80 '98 UZJ100-OEM RR locker ΣΧ
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#2 |
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IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: I'm in like Flynn
Posts: 910
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Old style 220 is 2 hots and a neutral
new style, is 2 hots, 1 neutral and 1 ground. If it were me, I would rewire the 3 prong wall outlet to a 4 prong style. __________________ 1972 FJ55 "Geirdriful" named after one of the Valkyries Check out my build thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/165633-build-up-progress-my-piggie.html Some more good pics of the Pig here too: http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pi...-iron-pig.html Maid Marion, "Why, you speak treason!" Robin Hood, "Fluently." |
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#3 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Go to the hardware store or appliance store and buy a new 3-prong pigtail - make sure it's long enough for your application (usually 4 or 6 feet) - maybe $15 or so?
On the back of the dryer, pull off the little access panel right above where the cord goes in (5/16" hex). Disconnect the old cord and remove the stain-relief bracket. Insert new cord through the hole and hook up the three wires to the posts. As long as the middle wire goes to the middle post, you're good. Tighten the nuts and install the stain-relief bracket (yes it's important). *accurate for 95% of dryers out there. __________________ -Eric 64 FJ40, slightly modified. 97 LX450, bone stock. |
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#4 |
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Focus on the Journey
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New dryers have 4 wire to support the electronic controllers in newer dryers.
__________________ 78 FJ40 ARB's F&R, Rear Disks, DUI HEI, 200 Amp Alt, OME 2.5, 33x10.50, PS, RE8000, Stout Rear Bumper, 4+Plus Sliders/U-Bolt Flip Kit/Tie & Relay Rods/Anti-Inversion Shackles, Dual Tanks, BTB Dash Box, Tuned Ceramic Coated Headers, Extended Axle Vents, BrakeQuip Custom Certified SS Brake & Clutch Flex Lines ROTW My Yoda|HD Skid Plate|Recovery & Windshield Washer Tanks|Toyota Pulley on GM Pump|Bypass Hose |
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#5 | |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 22
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Quote:
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#6 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 22
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Overall BEST installation would be to hire an electrician and have him-her install a new 4 wire receptacle.
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#7 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 22
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Main reason for the 4 conductors is to isloate the neutral conductor( current carrying) from the machines frame and still "GROUND" the frame. You see old style 3 prong installations can be a shock hazard
if you were to contact that frame and be a better path to ground than is the circuit's neutral conductor.
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#8 |
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Ramblin Wreck
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Georgia Tech
Posts: 5,408
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It's an older dryer...
Found the installation manual online, installed a 3 prong pigtail according to the manual... Works great! __________________ Bailey Quintrell '74 FJ40--37 Irocks-32 Bolt 'Locks-SM420-ARB-XD9000i-FJ60 PS-MetalTech Cage '93 FZJ80-DD-Part Time 4wd-locked-5" lifted-snorkel-bullbar-315 AT's '97 FZJ80 '98 UZJ100-OEM RR locker ΣΧ
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#9 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 22
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#10 | |
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Ramblin Wreck
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Georgia Tech
Posts: 5,408
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Quote:
Thanks. __________________ Bailey Quintrell '74 FJ40--37 Irocks-32 Bolt 'Locks-SM420-ARB-XD9000i-FJ60 PS-MetalTech Cage '93 FZJ80-DD-Part Time 4wd-locked-5" lifted-snorkel-bullbar-315 AT's '97 FZJ80 '98 UZJ100-OEM RR locker ΣΧ
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#11 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 22
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