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#1 |
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IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 928
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Installing .75 solid oak wood floors
Any tips for a 3 banana wood butcher? I have just my 20'X20' bedroom left without oak floors. After pricing laminates and carpet, I have decided to do it myself with solid wood. I have removed solid floors, and I have refinished solid floors, and I have mitered a zillion planks for re-installation into the current home I own, so I am familiar with fitment issues, etc.
Any experts out there? I obviously need to source the stuff first but as far as the actual install what tips would a guy need to know? THANKS! __________________ 1/75 FJ40 (soon to be V8 converted) 88 FJ62 Bionic Blue TLCA Member # 17731 Treat me good, I'll treat you better. Treat me bad, I'll treat you worse. |
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#2 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NW side of chicago
Posts: 1,051
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I would suggest going to a library and finding a good book. Your city would have really good selection. Working around the threshold and door moldings would be the toughest area in a bedroom and everything else is generally pretty easy as long as it is straight. I would research more on finishes and the how many layers you want to put down.
__________________ 88 fj62 w 209k 94 80series 167k |
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#3 |
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I'm really very humble
Join Date: May 2004
Location: MN physically, MI spiritually
Posts: 1,319
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some of the old timers used to lay down light tar paper between the sub floor and the planks. I doubt that that is done any longer. Rent a pneumatic floor nailer, keep 1/2" all the way around for expansion. Go over the sub floor and screw in any loose ply. Bring your flooring in to the space and let it acclimate to the interior humidity and temp. Let it sit in the boxes for at least a week. If the humidity is high in the wood and you nail it to the floor it will shrink and you will have lovely gaps in every plank. Get a humidifier to go on the furnace if you have forced air. It will save your wood floors as well as all your wood furniture. Get the pre finished stuff. That will save you for a couple years before a refinish. Stager the joints so they don't line up for at least three planks wide. Use a scrap plank for a hammer stop when "tapping" the planks into place before nailing. This will save the tung and groove on the good planks. I really don't know shit about floors but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night. Good luck, it's a no brainer.
__________________ 94 FZJ80, factory locked with mods worth more than the truck. |
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#4 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Make sure the subfloor is plywood or OSB, not particle board. Use a hardwood floor underlayment or 15lb tar paper, especially if it is over a crawlspace or unconditioned basement. Make sure to acclimate the wood, inside your house, for at least a few days, a little more is better. Since your getting 3/4 inch hardwood, to match your existing floor, make sure you get the right kind of oak, ie. white or red, and you might want quartersawn (yes you can get it), if your house is older and has it.
__________________ Ben Silva IH8MUD Site Supporter since July 2004 1996 Lexus LX 450, 130k, locked, Cooper STT 285s, OME 850/863, CDL/Pin 7, 30qt freezer, 2@aux fuse blocks, aux powerpoint, 850w inverter 1998 Lexus LX 470, 139k Sold 1993 FZJ80 198k miles Sold |
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#5 |
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IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 928
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Thank you and I will!
__________________ 1/75 FJ40 (soon to be V8 converted) 88 FJ62 Bionic Blue TLCA Member # 17731 Treat me good, I'll treat you better. Treat me bad, I'll treat you worse. |
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