New Shop/Barn with Cruiser content

[JRFJ4-]

I started on my barn/dream shop last week. Main building will be 40' x 80' with a 20'x80' side shed. I am going to pour concrete in 40'x40' of it for my shop.
4" on 12" metal trusses on ten foot centers. Side sheds are 3" on 12". Main barn sits 16 feet at the posts, because I needed the height for the side sheds.

I have always needed more room, and I am about to get it.

I am building a small (800 square foot) apartment in the side shed. We just listed our house and plan to live in the apartment for a year or two until we decide on a house. Being a guy, I could live in the barn forever, but the wifey ain't gonna have it. It's just us and the dogs, so we can make it for awhile without killing each other. Apartment will turn into a band room/guy room when we move out. It will be sharing a wall with my shop.

Anyway, here are a few pics as it sits today. I've gotta get someone to put on the roof for me. I'm just tired of messing with it. I just want to come home from work one day and it be done.

I'll keep the progess updated as it happens.

JR

[79fj40moneypit]

Nice! My dream someday.

[Waorani]

Where did you get your trusses?

[JRFJ4-]

Addison Steel Truss. Cullman County Alabama.

$165.00 for the 40' trusses.
$105.00 for the 20' side shed trusses.

JR

[CDUFF7]

you have what I would call Mad Skillz!!!

Looks great, wish I could have a little room myself.

[alia176]

Subscribing so that I can see how this develops. I'll be doing something similar just not this BIG!

[jts560]

Can you tell me about that auger on the 3pt of the tractor. How wide/deep will it bore, what hp is the tractor?

[JRFJ4-]

The post hole digger on the tractor has a 12" auger on it. It will probably dig 3 feet deep. Most of my holes were about 20"-24". It has a six inch auger with it too. If you ever get a 12" auger, make sure the cutting edge has a carbide cutting tooth. It makes a big difference on the bigger auger. It's not my digger, it's one of my buddies. Everyone does not need a post hole digger. You just need to know someone who has one. You don't use them alot.

My tractor is a 50 horsepower. It actually makes 44 at the PTO. Just about any tractor can run that post hole digger. I never had it above idle when we were digging holes.

I have been trying to decide about insulation for my building. I don't want to have condensation problems under the metal, but don't want to insulate the entire thing. But I am making a decision tonight and getting everything ordered. They will not run my power until I get some concrete poured, and I need the roof on it before we finish the concrete.

JR

[CodyRx7]

Couldnt you wrap it in plastic like a greenhouse if you need a temporary roof for the concrete?

[Landcruisin'60]

Just curious but why are you putting the roof on before the concrete?

[archie]

Originally Posted by Landcruisin'60

Just curious but why are you putting the roof on before the concrete?

I think the curing of the concrete would be better- the sun would not allow it to dry too fast. Rain would also be a bad thing if it occured while doing the pour. Not a guy who works with concrete often, so it just a guess.

[Landcruisin'60]

You want the concrete to stay damp as it cures. That was why I was a little curious. The sun idea seems reasonable.

[JRFJ4-]

Most finishers want as much time as possible with it. It will go slower with a roof on.

I may hire it done instead of tackling it with my buddies.

I'm learning that's it's easier and cheaper to let someone else do things.

JR

[JRFJ4-]

Haven't done anything to the shop in a few weeks, but I got my insulation yesterday and the guy "said" he would be here Saturday morning to start on the metal.

I did alot of reading about the radiant foil insulation. www.insulation4less.com had free shipping so I got the Prodex from them. It is foil, polyethylene backing, polyethylene foam, then another layer of the backing and another layer of foil. It's only 1/4" thick.

Everything I've read says that the radiant foil is the way to go. We'll see. I ordered enough to cover the roof of my shop, the roof of the apartment, and wrap the entire apartment. It also serves as a vapor barrier.

I will come back and insulate the rest of the shop some other time. My wife does not care how hot or cold my shop is. Go figure.

JR

[JRFJ4-]

Here's a pic from the construction and one with a few trucks in it for size comparison.

I'm ready to get a roof on this thing. I got my account setup with the concrete company yesterday. $70.00 a yard. A buddy of mine is the sales manager. And we are going to finish the concrete ourselves. I've got some good construction buddies who can handle it. I'll be in the way once all the grunt work is done.

JR

[JRFJ4-]

Finally got the roof on this weekend. I hired it done, that's the only reason it got finished. It would have taken me a month to do it.

Next up is to decide on which doors to buy for my shop. I will probably get 10'x10' or 10'x12'. I am putting in two doors so I will have two bays to work.


It is definately alot cooler under the metal with insulation that the metal without. I probably should have bought enough to do the entire building.




JR

[JRFJ4-]

I haven't done alot with my barn lately. It's been so hot, I just don't want to do anything after work.

I framed up my pad for our apartment. We've had a little change of plans, my wife and I are expecting our first baby. The wifey just wants to go ahead and get this built and moved in before the baby gets here in March, even if our house has not sold by then.

Anyway, I've almost got all my plumbing done, just have to get my shower drain in. I am putting a toilet/shower/sink in my shop. It was real easy for the shop toilet, you can see both toilets are on the same line.

The concrete finisher came by this morning, so hopefully I can get this finished up and ready to pour by Tuesday or Wednesday.

I decided on using pex pipe for my water supply lines. I ran 3" pvc and snaked the pex up through the pvc. So even if I get a leak in the future, I can always pull new water lines through the pvc.

We are pouring a 10'x20' porch on the front of the apartment. This is my new view after cutting down a few trees. I hate cutting trees, I am a borderline treehugger, but I wanted to see the pond better.

JR

[archie]

Thanks for the update. Things are really gonna get busy with that baby. Congrats!

[Creeker]

Looks like a great project, and a good price for the trusses.

Something you've probably already considered, but make sure you get some lateral bracing in there soon. Now that the roof's on, you're going to get some wind force, and that could easily push your columns over.

My 2c FWIW.

[JRFJ4-]

Originally Posted by Creeker

Something you've probably already considered, but make sure you get some lateral bracing in there soon. Now that the roof's on, you're going to get some wind force, and that could easily push your columns over.

My 2c FWIW.

The pics in post #16 show all the braces. I have left all the braces we had when we hung the trusses. I will add 6x6 post to frame in my roll up doors. These will tie onto the end truss. Once the concrete is poured around them, you add braces between the second truss and the end 6x6's.

That's if I ever get this done!!!

I bought the shower today, and will get the drain plumbed in tomorrow. The concrete finisher called today and said they would pour this friday or saturday this week.

JR

[JRFJ4-]

I have got a few things done lately. We signed a sales contract on our house, so I have got to get us a place to live by 12/7/07.

Concrete was poured 9/6/07 and I started framing walls that weekend. Septic tank went in last week and the guy is going to drill our well sometime this week. Power company said it would be a month before we had power.

Framing goes quick, then everything else comes.

The third picture is for all the safety folks out there.

I went ahead and bought a Paslode Cordless framing nailer. It's not as fast as a pneumatic nailer, but it sure is nice not to have to mess with cords or listen to compressor and generator run all day.

JR

[JRFJ4-]

I brought home the new shower and had it standing up. A storm blew the shower over that night and cracked the gel coat on it. It's not that bad, just kind of ticks you off.

I was standing up one wall with the tractor and the wall slipped on the concrete. It tore the wall up pretty bad and had to basically redo the whole thing.

Didn't line up the slots on my toilet flange when I cemented it together, so I will have to go back and put some kind of concrete anchors to hold down the toilet.

My dad came over this weekend and helped hang some OSB up on the big wall. Things really start to slow down after framing.

I got the insulation delivered Friday, so I need to start pulling wires tomorrow so we can get to insulating the walls.

JR

[El Cazador]

Assuming you're going to wire 220v? Three phase needed? Great project. You need to for sure install a lift of some sort. Hell, since it's your money I can suggest any number of things you can't live without.
Vic
Redlands, CA.

[alia176]

I'm curious about something...can you epoxy paint the floor now or will you have to wait until more time elapses? It seems that folks don't like acid etching their floor with the walls installed.

[stayalert]

As for the safety in the third pic....OH MY GOD I can see what you are talking about



You should evacuate the work site until that tipped over beverage container is remediated. A full blown job hazard analysis should be perforemd to ensure the beverage tipping over did not create a slip hazard

[JRFJ4-]

I'm not sure about epoxy paint. I did acid etch a floor once before with the walls standing. I think we are just gonna live on the concrete floor until we just can't stand it anymore. Money adds up so quick, I hate to spend a bunch of money on wood floors.

There will only be a few 220 circuits in our apartment. Stove, Hot water heater, dryer. I'm pulling