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10-27-09, 02:00 PM
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#31 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jema
Why does your crankshaft look veeery dry? Maybe lack of oil is a reason for the seized bearing?
BTW: Husqvarna kick stihl's ass everyday. Usually, in sweden anyway, they say that you should replace your saw when the piston starts to wear. After that all the major costs come...
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What is Sweden known for? Husqvarna sowing machines, Volvo cars, and Swedish bikini team.
I'll take West German engineering over Sweden any day.
__________________
69 FJ40 with some minor mods...
2000 Cummins powered Dodge with some power enhancements.
DO NOT SUPPORT TRAIL GEAR!!!!! bad ethics = bad business!
http://www.paypalsucks.com
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10-27-09, 06:05 PM
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#32 (permalink)
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What's next?
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Podunk, Arizona
Posts: 2,571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fj40charles
What is Sweden known for? Husqvarna sowing machines, Volvo cars, and Swedish bikini team.
I'll take West German engineering over Sweden any day.
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They used to make some damn good dirt bikes (back in the day). IIRC, they sold the moto line to one of the Italian or Spanish firms and the quality went downhill. KTM (made in Austria), has taken over as the premier euro off road moto line as a result.
__________________
'69 fj40
CSC#103
A dry heat still cooks a turkey
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10-28-09, 09:09 AM
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#33 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: May 2008
Location: The Pork Roll, Egg & Cheese state
Posts: 1,086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D'Animal
Or
They use poor quality mix oil. If you want the knock the lower bearing out of a hi-rpm/hi-load 2-cycle ngine, run Echo oil. If you want it to happen faster, use Champion oil.
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Oh great . Just got done going through a six pack of Echo. I buy the small one gallon bottles.
Latest purchase was a six pack of Redmax. Any good or bad experience D'animal?
__________________
'87 FJ-Shemp driver
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10-28-09, 11:10 AM
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#34 (permalink)
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Beagles Rule!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 15,945
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Short term there is not bad effects.
Long term use in the product is were I noticed it. I have been doing this for 30 years and I have seen a few things that lead to my opinion.
I have not heard anything about Redmax Oil.
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10-28-09, 03:46 PM
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#35 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,355
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Here is the 2 cycle oil I got. Going to run this oil on my Echo equipment and Stihl saw.
Is this the best 2 cycle oil for the Stihl saw?
__________________
69 FJ40 with some minor mods...
2000 Cummins powered Dodge with some power enhancements.
DO NOT SUPPORT TRAIL GEAR!!!!! bad ethics = bad business!
http://www.paypalsucks.com
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10-28-09, 04:12 PM
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#36 (permalink)
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Beagles Rule!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 15,945
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Yep
Full synthetic
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10-28-09, 08:05 PM
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#37 (permalink)
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Naka Naka Naka Naka...
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: N44 W76
Posts: 1,239
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Hey D'Animal - thanks for the quick help. Saw is completely apart awaiting parts. I've gone with aftermarket at this point due to price point. If they only last the rest of this season I am fine with that. After that I'll get a new saw.
Thought I'd point you to another forum, that I don't know if you are aware of. I found it when looking for my backhoe - but more recently found the forrestry equipment section. You might find some interest here (if'n ya havn't already been there!)
Forestry Equipment - Heavy Equipment Forums
Might find some interest in this one...
http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/...ad.php?t=12428
Bruce
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10-29-09, 11:10 AM
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#38 (permalink)
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Västervik, Sweden
Posts: 47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splitshot
They used to make some damn good dirt bikes (back in the day). IIRC, they sold the moto line to one of the Italian or Spanish firms and the quality went downhill. KTM (made in Austria), has taken over as the premier euro off road moto line as a result.
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Germans don't know much about forestry - they are sadly enough big fans of "close to nature"-thinking.
Sweden have the leading forestry knowledge, together with finland. Sorry to say, but your way of forestry is a joke to us. CTL-methods are a big improvement if you would to introduce that. In sweden we already are talking about "lean production". Call me when you are thinking of that...
I know what I'm talking about, since I have a master of science in forestry degree, educated side by side with students from all around the world.
Last edited by jema; 10-29-09 at 11:16 AM.
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10-29-09, 12:50 PM
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#39 (permalink)
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Mexican't
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splitshot
They used to make some damn good dirt bikes (back in the day). IIRC, they sold the moto line to one of the Italian or Spanish firms and the quality went downhill. KTM (made in Austria), has taken over as the premier euro off road moto line as a result.
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ken on a husky.
__________________
2000 uzj100
1995 Fzj80 Pearl Gray mallcruiser with damage multipliers front and back
scale: 1/4"=1'-0"..........
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10-29-09, 05:23 PM
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#40 (permalink)
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What's next?
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Podunk, Arizona
Posts: 2,571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jema
Germans don't know much about forestry - they are sadly enough big fans of "close to nature"-thinking.
Sweden have the leading forestry knowledge, together with finland. Sorry to say, but your way of forestry is a joke to us. CTL-methods are a big improvement if you would to introduce that. In sweden we already are talking about "lean production". Call me when you are thinking of that...
I know what I'm talking about, since I have a master of science in forestry degree, educated side by side with students from all around the world.
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Charles, I think this was meant to go in your box
Quote:
Originally Posted by agomez
ken on a husky.
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Got to be late 70's or early 80's.
__________________
'69 fj40
CSC#103
A dry heat still cooks a turkey
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10-29-09, 05:52 PM
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#41 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splitshot
Charles, I think this was meant to go in your box
Got to be late 70's or early 80's. 
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I will stand my comment about the West Germans having better engineering than Sweden.
Anyone know what is the best selling chainsaw in Sweden? It is not Huskvarna.
__________________
69 FJ40 with some minor mods...
2000 Cummins powered Dodge with some power enhancements.
DO NOT SUPPORT TRAIL GEAR!!!!! bad ethics = bad business!
http://www.paypalsucks.com
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10-29-09, 06:45 PM
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#42 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jema
Germans don't know much about forestry - they are sadly enough big fans of "close to nature"-thinking.
Sweden have the leading forestry knowledge, together with finland. Sorry to say, but your way of forestry is a joke to us. CTL-methods are a big improvement if you would to introduce that. In sweden we already are talking about "lean production". Call me when you are thinking of that...
I know what I'm talking about, since I have a master of science in forestry degree, educated side by side with students from all around the world.
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We're talking about chainsaws in this thread. What does a masters degree have to do with who builds the best chainsaws? Does West Germans have more engineering PHDs than Sweden?
__________________
69 FJ40 with some minor mods...
2000 Cummins powered Dodge with some power enhancements.
DO NOT SUPPORT TRAIL GEAR!!!!! bad ethics = bad business!
http://www.paypalsucks.com
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10-29-09, 09:48 PM
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#43 (permalink)
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Beagles Rule!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 15,945
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Everybody calm down.
MrMoMo had a problem with his chain saw and he now knows what the problems is and is in the process of repairing it.
The Husqvarna vs STIHL/Ford vs Chevy/Land Cruiser vs Jeep debate will go on for ever and that is what the Chat Section is for.
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10-29-09, 11:46 PM
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#44 (permalink)
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Västervik, Sweden
Posts: 47
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No offence...
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10-30-09, 09:03 AM
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#45 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,355
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[QUOTE=jema;4922707]No
No offense taken.
__________________
69 FJ40 with some minor mods...
2000 Cummins powered Dodge with some power enhancements.
DO NOT SUPPORT TRAIL GEAR!!!!! bad ethics = bad business!
http://www.paypalsucks.com
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11-06-09, 05:43 PM
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#46 (permalink)
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Not so think as u drunk!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: In the basement
Posts: 2,093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMoMo
Hey D'Animal - thanks for the quick help. Saw is completely apart awaiting parts. I've gone with aftermarket at this point due to price point. If they only last the rest of this season I am fine with that. After that I'll get a new saw.
Thought I'd point you to another forum, that I don't know if you are aware of. I found it when looking for my backhoe - but more recently found the forrestry equipment section. You might find some interest here (if'n ya havn't already been there!)
Forestry Equipment - Heavy Equipment Forums
Might find some interest in this one...
http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/...ad.php?t=12428
Bruce
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I am curious what it cost.
__________________
Hugh Heifer
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11-07-09, 01:09 PM
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#47 (permalink)
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Naka Naka Naka Naka...
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: N44 W76
Posts: 1,239
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Hey D'Animal.... any tips for re-assembly? I've got my parts! Not sure if it was a mistake or not, I got two gaskets for the crank case halfs... I would assume I should only use one there. Is there a sealant I should apply as well? Any break in tips?
Thanks!
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11-07-09, 01:30 PM
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#48 (permalink)
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Beagles Rule!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central California
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I use a sealant called Dirko. It is an RTV sealant that is impervious to all chemicals.
Are the gaskets for the crank case or the cylinder? if it is for the crankcase, use just one. If it is for the cylinder, use the thinner one. Do not use any gasket sealant on the cylinder gasket.
As far as break in, I would not run it wide open throttle for a bit. let it idle for a little while to warm up and "goose" the throttle to make sure it is running good.
When cutting, avoid lugging the engine down. Let the chain cut and do the work.
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11-07-09, 03:53 PM
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#49 (permalink)
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Naka Naka Naka Naka...
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: N44 W76
Posts: 1,239
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Awesome, thanks. The two gaskets are for the crank case halves, I think they were just stuck together when they picked the part. There was no sealant on the cylinder gasket when I took it apart so I was not going to put any there, just couldn't tell with the crank case halves as the gasket tore when I took it apart.
Thanks again!
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11-08-09, 10:17 AM
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#50 (permalink)
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Naka Naka Naka Naka...
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: N44 W76
Posts: 1,239
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AARARRRRRRGH....
Got the whole thing back together and now I have no spark. Checked the gap, seems good. Tried a different plug - no luck, pulled the ground from the switch... same.
So... what would cause the coil to go at the same time as the bearing?
MOFO'er. It's getting cold here - I need to get my wood cut!
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11-08-09, 10:21 AM
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#51 (permalink)
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Beagles Rule!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 15,945
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Unplug all the wires from the coil except the spark plug wire and check it.
A wire is grounding out.
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11-08-09, 10:28 AM
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#52 (permalink)
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Beagles Rule!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 15,945
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How the ignition system works on a saw is the magnets on the flywheel ground throught the flywheel itself. The flywheel grounds to the crankshaft, the crankshaft grounds through the main bearings, the main bearings ground to the cylinder and the cylinder grounds to the spark plug.
Too much sealant on a gasket or too much grease on the cranshaft bearing or a film of anything on the taper of the crankshaft where seats it will loose the ground.
The ignition module itself does not have to be grounded.
Last edited by D'Animal; 11-08-09 at 10:33 AM.
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11-08-09, 10:31 AM
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#53 (permalink)
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Naka Naka Naka Naka...
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: N44 W76
Posts: 1,239
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Hmm... tried two different plugs, and eventually the spark started. Put the original plug back in and its fine now...
Time to mix some good gas and get cutting!!!
Thanks to everyone who had input to get me through this...
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11-08-09, 10:57 AM
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#54 (permalink)
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Beagles Rule!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 15,945
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You just cranked it enough to get the factpory grease worked around inside the bearings so the ground could make contact.
Quote:
Originally Posted by D'Animal
Too much sealant on a gasket or too much grease on the crankshaft bearing or a film of anything on the taper of the crankshaft where seats it will loose the ground.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMoMo
Hmm... tried two different plugs, and eventually the spark started. Put the original plug back in and its fine now...
Time to mix some good gas and get cutting!!!
Thanks to everyone who had input to get me through this...
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If figured I would explain how it works since if I told you to keep cranking you would probably think I was being a Smar tass.
Glad it is back together and working.
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11-08-09, 11:28 AM
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jema
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This message has been deleted by jema.
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11-08-09, 03:12 PM
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#55 (permalink)
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Naka Naka Naka Naka...
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: N44 W76
Posts: 1,239
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by D'Animal
Glad it is back together and working.

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 Well, sorry to upset you, but it's FUCKED again.
Bought some Lucas synthetic 2-stroke oil (it was all I could find after going to 3 places). Mixed a fresh jug of fuel, a little high on the oil side (I normally use 40:1, this was probably more like 35 or 30:1)
I let it idle for about 5 minutes, then raised the idle a little for a few minutes. then let it idle again for a few minutes. Brought it up to about mid throttle a few times. Seemed to be working great. Made sure I had chain oil flowing, I did.
Started into the wood, cutting great. Only going about 1/2 throttle, so the cutting was slow. I cut a few small logs (<6"), letting it idle for a few minutes after every few cuts. Never took it to full throttle. After about 10 minutes it quit while it was idling. I started it up again and it idled fine. Cut a few more logs, let it idle - idled fine. Cut a few more logs. Again, nothing above about 1/2 throttle About 20 minutes in (repeating above), after a cut, about 1/4 throttle (no load, but clutch engaged) it quit like the chain brake snapped on, but it wasn't the chain brake.
Pulled the recoil. Not the re-coil
Pulled the clutch cover, Not the clutch
Pulled the muffler - piston is all the way down so I can't see the
side
Pulled the spark plug - it didn't break off.
Not a screw backed out from the oil pump jamming the clutch
Nothing interfering with the flywheel.
2 hours later, I still can't turn the crank.
I'm glad my labor is free, but its a pretty big piss off that I wasted all that time and money to get 20 minutes of cutting.
Only thing I can think is the tube that goes from the carb to the crank case must be plugged? I assume that's how it gets some lube oil?
SO.... My thought is to get another 365, so I have a parts saw.
D'Animal - being as un-biased as you can be - would you reccomend otherwise? Is a stihl easier/cheaper to re-build?
Last edited by MrMoMo; 11-08-09 at 04:25 PM.
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11-08-09, 04:40 PM
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#56 (permalink)
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Beagles Rule!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 15,945
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It died at idle which is good.
Double check the coil and make sure it is not jambed into the flywheel.
If the implulse passage was plugged, it would be very hard to start, would not idle at all and only run wide open throttle.
The only thing that would cause it to lock up is one of the new bearings you installed.
Lets find out what is wrong with this before you buy another Husqvarna 365.
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11-14-09, 07:23 PM
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#57 (permalink)
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What's next?
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Podunk, Arizona
Posts: 2,571
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Hope it's good news....
Any news?
__________________
'69 fj40
CSC#103
A dry heat still cooks a turkey
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