[EricG]

Just got the interior doors for my addition. 2-panel arch-top w/stain grade jambs in clear pine - they look great!

So - hang then stain & finish or vice versa? One door will go over an already finished floor - I may finish that one before I install it it. But otherwise, it's a tossup. Finishing first - don't have enough sawhorses or clear floor spaces, so I'd have to do them in stages. Installing first makes it easy to get at to finish - but applying poly is easier on horizontal surface IMO.

Any other tips or tricks for installing pre-hung doors?

[KLF]

I'm a slow fussy bastid when it comes to interior trim work, so here's how I'd do it:

* Remove all the hardware from the jambs, apply first coast of stain. They can be stacked to dry.

* Install the jambs, fill nail holes, then quick second coat of stain. 2 coats of poly.

* Re-install the hinges & locksets, hang the doors unfinished, except for one. Stain & finish one door at a time on horses, horizontal. As you get each done, hang it in the jamb then move to the next one.

Curious to see what the "pros" on here would do...

I plumb the hinge side of the jamb first, using 3" screws, hidden in the hinge mortises. Then level the top, finally plumb the latch side, again sink a long strong screw hidden under the striker mortise. 2-1/2" 15-ga SS nails in my Hitachi gun. I hate split jambs, always use rabbeted style, much nicer looking.

A 6' level is your friend!

[freds40]

Install door and jamb as a complete unit. Makes it super easy to assure the door is square and plumb. Then pull the hinge pins and do your finish work off the jamb.

[Cookiemonster]

You don't want to know how many fricken doors I've done in this manner.

I prefer not to work with pine as it sucks to stain, IMHO. I've had customers requesting "oak" with pine. I've seen guys brush on oak wood grain to pine but the price triples for labor.

Enough of that.

It is always easier to stain the jambs prior to install. Take the doors off, remove the hinges and stain both the jambs and door.

Re-attach the doors and install the unit.

Remove the doors and seal up jamb and doors with at least 2 coats of what ever you're planning on using. Typically the jambs you can get some good quality foam brushes and brush a nice Poly on. I prefer to spray the doors as it is a nicer finish.

Try and hide your screws under the weather stripping or flashing. Thus you haven't a need for filler. If you find yourself using a 15 or 16 gauge nail gun go easy and find the stain filler to match, but make dang sure it matches dried before you go using it else it look like crap.

Good luck and better you than me.....

[nate-gk]

this is what i do. IMHO the only way to do it right.

Originally Posted by Cookiemonster

You don't want to know how many fricken doors I've done in this manner.

I prefer not to work with pine as it sucks to stain, IMHO. I've had customers requesting "oak" with pine. I've seen guys brush on oak wood grain to pine but the price triples for labor.

Enough of that.

It is always easier to stain the jambs prior to install. Take the doors off, remove the hinges and stain both the jambs and door.

Re-attach the doors and install the unit.

Remove the doors and seal up jamb and doors with at least 2 coats of what ever you're planning on using. Typically the jambs you can get some good quality foam brushes and brush a nice Poly on. I prefer to spray the doors as it is a nicer finish.

Try and hide your screws under the weather stripping or flashing. Thus you haven't a need for filler. If you find yourself using a 15 or 16 gauge nail gun go easy and find the stain filler to match, but make dang sure it matches dried before you go using it else it look like ****.

Good luck and better you than me.....