Removing an Inboard Clutch on a STIHL Chain Saw (1 Viewer)

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D'Animal

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Here is the procedure to remove the Clutch assy on a STIHL Chain Saw equiped with an Inboard Clutch. This means the clutch is under the sprocket drum and you have to remove the sprocket drum first.

I will cover the outboard sprocket later in this thread.

You will have to remove the clutch to do almost any oiler diagnosis or repair on a STIHL.


This procedure is used on the following models.

017
MS170
018
MS180
021
MS210
023
MS230
024
MS240 (for the people outside the USA)
025
MS250
026
MS260
MS270
028
MS280
034
036
MS360
038
042
044
MS440
MS441
046
MS460
064
066
MS660
084
088
MS880


All you really need is your Bar Wrench.
 
Remove your bar and chain by taking off the side cover.
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Remove the clip and washer, drive sprocket rim and/or drum .

If you have crap wrapped around the crankshaft, the clip may be difficult to remove.


Once you remove the sprocket drum, you will be looking at the clutch assembly.
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Here is where most people truely fawk up. Remove the sprak plug. You can use you bar wrench for this. The bar nuts for the models listed above and the spark plug are both 19mm. They engineered this way.


Do Not use an impact gun!



Repeat, Do Not use an impact gun!



You can shear the flywheel key off. A new flywheel is not cheap.

Here is a picture of the correct piston stop used to stop the piston. Part # 0000 893 5903. It comes with the MS200 and the MS660 model saws.


Also is a picture of the piston stop correctly installed.

You will see people telling you to shove rope down the spark plug hole. Don't do this. Please see next post for more info.
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Here is the correct piston stop installed. I used a Cut-A-Way Saw that I built a few years back. You can see how the top of the piston comes in contact with the dome of the cylinder.


The Red color you are seeing is the Cut A Way part.
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You will see people telling you to shove rope down the spark plug hole. Don't do this. Please see next post for more info.


Here is where people really cause themselves a lot of grief.

They pull the started rope out and double it up.

They then shove it down the sparkplug hole.

This sounds simple but it can co$t you big time.
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Here is where the starter rope trick can cost you.


If you shove too much in and the piston is not in the correct spot, it will stick out the exhaust port.

The piston is a piston. It is not a starter rope shear. If it extends out the exhaust post you can crack the piston between the top of the piston and the top ring. You will not notice this at all. When you runt he saw next, that little piece will break off and score the cylinder and piston.


Here is a picture of too much. The blue is the the exhaust port.
DSCF4419.JPG
 
Oh, I see, the info I need is on the 1st page. Duh! I guess I should read 1st, then ask. Thanx again
 
Thanks for the detailed post with all the photos. I had no idea how to get that clutch off, but your post made it a 5 minute job.
 
Is there anything particularly evil about this piston stop?

10615_L.jpg
 
In the saws list above, YES it is the Debil!


Is there anything particularly evil about this piston stop?

10615_L.jpg

Look at the picture in Post #8. The steel piston stop that you ahve shown would go in at an angle. When you try to unscrew the clutch it pushes on the threads at an angle. You will feel a slight tight spot right before the clutch comes loos. That slight tight spot is the threads being ripped out of the cylinder by the leverage you put on them using a steel piston stop at an angle.


Post #6 in this thread shows the piston to cylinder configuration that the metal piston stop is designed for. It screws straight into the cylinder and not at an angle.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/workshop-h...ngine-rebuild-009-010-011-012-chain-saws.html
 
Last edited:
Here is the procedure to remove the Clutch assy on a STIHL Chain Saw equiped with an Inboard Clutch. This means the clutch is under the sprocket drum and you have to remove the sprocket drum first.

I will cover the outboard sprocket later in this thread.

You will have to remove the clutch to do almost any oiler diagnosis or repair on a STIHL.


This procedure is used on the following models.

017
MS170
018
MS180
021
MS210
023
MS230
024
MS240 (for the people outside the USA)
025
MS250
026
MS260
MS270
028
MS280
034
036
MS360
038
042
044
MS440
MS441
046
MS460
064
066
MS660
084
088
MS880


All you really need is your Bar Wrench.

I just acquired an MS290...different than above ???
 
From here the repair procedure takes a different dirction, depending on the model of saw.


I will post up different repair models as requested.

I have an MS460.

I've disassembled it, cleaned it, emptied and cleaned the bar oil tank and pickup element and it's still not oiling. :mad:

Once I get the clutch off, what next? :confused:

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

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