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10-09-09, 10:48 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: West Seattle, WA
Posts: 93
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Tire Deflation...
Tire deflators...
I want a tire deflation device. Help me decide between the ARB tire deflator, or the Staun deflators. Which is better, do you have experience with either of these, or something different? Whaddya think?
ARB: ARB EZ Tire Deflator
Staun: Staun Tire Deflators, Automatically Deflate, Staun Valve, Automatic Tire Deflators, Preset Pressure, Reduce Tire Pressure
I suppose I could pick up a valve core removal tool on the cheap, but I want new toys.
__________________
TLCA Member #19635
1986 FJ60, mostly stock.
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10-09-09, 02:01 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 41
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Let me start with..... I really do not know much about any of them. So, take my opinion with a grain of salt. I also hope others will pipe in and give thier opinion and set me correct.
I recently just bought one of these to see how it works:
02. Mil-Spec Multi Choice Deflator- Standard Series
After looking at all the options out there I chose this one because it has preset values and it is a simple twist and the pressue you want is set. It really follows the KISS concept. I have not actually used it yet. I just got it last week.
I was close to getting the Staun set. A lot of people gave them really good reviews. I just didnt like the way you have to set them and you dont really have options to choose other PSI settings without going through a pretty cumbersome process (to me anyway). I did like the fact you get (4) deflators and you can put one on move to the next tire and by the time you work your way around the car the first tire should be about deflated so you just do two laps around and are done.
The ARB is also a nice one and I like the idea of the guage. And the price is great.
Again, all of this is from my own research, no actual use.
The one I gav you the link to IS pricy.... But the simplicity of it is what sold me on it.
Hope this helps and others help you make the right choice.
__________________
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So, throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." --- Mark Twain
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10-09-09, 02:23 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 54
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I have had the Stauns a few years now and really like them. Once you calibrate them they are very repeatable The best part is that all you have to do is put them on and kick back for a few minutes while they do the work.
__________________
1996 LX450
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10-09-09, 03:30 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: It's dark and smelly
Posts: 1,585
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If you only have one set of tires go with the Stauns. If you have more than one set (i.e. trail & street tires) then get the Stauns and the ARB deflator.
BTW, when you calibrate your Stauns use a bicycle, motorcycle or lawn tractor to set them on as it will save you the hassle of airing up a large tire multiple times.
__________________
1994 80 - Some stuff
1988 4runner - cute little brown thing affectionately known as "sh*t stain"
Those who can, do; those who can't, criticize - Unknown
Strive for perfection in everything.
Take the best that exists and make it better.
If it doesn't exist, create it.
Accept nothing nearly right or good enough.
Sir Henry Royce
Co-founder, Rolls Royce
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10-09-09, 06:04 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: wild wonderful wv
Posts: 570
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wow i need to come on this thread more often a lot of good info.
__________________
QUIT SUCKING MY OXYGEN
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10-09-09, 11:03 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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You want to do what...?
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: PRK
Posts: 11,771
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got the Stauns
have them set up to 15, 20, 25, and 30. Plenty of choices for my stuff.
works great for me.
__________________
 : '97: 90K, 3xlock, 285 MT/Rs on steelies, Hanna sliders, 851+1.5"/863/N73/N74E/SD24, ARB bull with M12, Kaymar with duals, Kaymar rack, Slee TC skid, 2m/440, more stuff, loose nut behind the wheel!). Custom HD roo bar for sale!
 : '03: 115K
DDs: Accord, Prius
 : souped-up DR650
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10-11-09, 11:37 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Posts: 4,946
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I have the Stauns and the ARB. I thought the Stauns were cool when I got them. using them the first time was a pain but after that it was fine. But ever since I got the ARB I never took the Stauns out again. Something about having the gauge makes me feel better. Plus I think its faster removing the core thru the ARB then just deflating using the Stauns.
__________________
84 FJ60, 256k (Rumpleshank)- suckiest day of my life, WagonGear'd, cleaned, fixed, carb'd, OME lift'd, U-bolts flip'd, Remflex'd and now waiting for a new motor
86 FJ60, 180k (Rizzabella)- just bought it
97 LX450, 227k, non-locked. Expedition vehicle in progress. Auto-up mod, Coolant mod, Garage door mod, Jumper Cables, Dual batteries, Power Distribution 1, 2, 3, 4, Switch mod, Slee harness, Coolant/windshield sensor mod, CDL & 7-pin mod, Dog mod, Drillbit mod, IPOR'd, Yellowbox'd, Scion'd, Trans gauge mod, MAF'd, JDM fan'd, kid seat mod, Factory rack removed 
Mark's Off-Road for all 40,45,60 parts
ふざけんなよ!
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10-12-09, 01:32 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 7,985
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IMHO a screwdriver type core remover and a pencil type tire gauge are the quickest, easiest way to get the job done. I carry them full time in the console. About half of our group uses this method, we air down, then stand around waiting for the rest to get done putzin with their toys.
__________________
Kevin Patterson '96 LX450 '84 4x4 Mini '73 FJ40
Copper State Cruisers #007
"We have come to the conclusion that we can run our car over any road that a man can take a team of horses and a wagon, providing we can get traction." Dr. Horatio Nelson Jackson, 1903
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10-12-09, 01:39 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Springfield, Mo
Posts: 2,030
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I have both and they both server a purpose. I love the staun as you can screw them on and start down the trail. Take them off at the first stopping point. I have the ARB for using on a second truck and helping others. Not all truck want to go down to the same point so your Stauns are great if its just you with one truck.
__________________
Thad Brown/ Rogersville Mo
84 FJ 60 / SROR sides and rear / beauty marks from RR, FN, & LSCR / Free bumper from GCC and Locker from LSCR/
93 FJ80 Locked and loaded
07 FJ
08 Tundra Rocket ship
Green Country Cruisers
Ozark Mountain Cruisers
"Insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result."
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10-12-09, 02:46 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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You want to do what...?
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: PRK
Posts: 11,771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tools R Us
IMHO a screwdriver type core remover and a pencil type tire gauge are the quickest, easiest way to get the job done. I carry them full time in the console. About half of our group uses this method, we air down, then stand around waiting for the rest to get done putzin with their toys. 
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and carry either lots of spare cores or a big magnifying glass also, right?
__________________
 : '97: 90K, 3xlock, 285 MT/Rs on steelies, Hanna sliders, 851+1.5"/863/N73/N74E/SD24, ARB bull with M12, Kaymar with duals, Kaymar rack, Slee TC skid, 2m/440, more stuff, loose nut behind the wheel!). Custom HD roo bar for sale!
 : '03: 115K
DDs: Accord, Prius
 : souped-up DR650
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10-12-09, 03:34 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 7,985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REKCUT
I have both and they both server a purpose. I love the staun as you can screw them on and start down the trail. Take them off at the first stopping point. ...
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The effectiveness of this depends on your definition of wheeling and the design of the wheels. For tooling along dirt roads it works, but stock type wheels with the stems sticking out the sides, they better be off before obstacles are encountered. Have twice seen where they were removed by rock, didn't end well, once tore the stem in half, the other pulled it out, in both cases the deflation toys was destroyed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by e9999
and carry either lots of spare cores or a big magnifying glass also, right? 
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I have dropped a core a couple of times, don't think I have ever lost one? Always carry spares, it's not a big deal, when at the tire store, mention that you wheel and ask, they have always pointed to a huge bucket of caps/cores and said take what you want. In our group, by far the most often lost item has been caps regardless of method.
__________________
Kevin Patterson '96 LX450 '84 4x4 Mini '73 FJ40
Copper State Cruisers #007
"We have come to the conclusion that we can run our car over any road that a man can take a team of horses and a wagon, providing we can get traction." Dr. Horatio Nelson Jackson, 1903
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10-15-09, 11:57 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Springfield, Mo
Posts: 2,030
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Most of the places I have wheeled involve a short drive down some kind of trail before we encounter an obsticle. Very rarely do we pull in at a spot where you have to start spotting from the trail head on. This is where they are handy as you can screw them on and jump in line on your way to the first stopping spot.( as in the first place a truck has to slow down to negotiate a difficult spot and the rest all check up like 5 oclock traffic) I never ment this to suggest that you actually wheel with them in place.
__________________
Thad Brown/ Rogersville Mo
84 FJ 60 / SROR sides and rear / beauty marks from RR, FN, & LSCR / Free bumper from GCC and Locker from LSCR/
93 FJ80 Locked and loaded
07 FJ
08 Tundra Rocket ship
Green Country Cruisers
Ozark Mountain Cruisers
"Insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result."
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10-16-09, 09:51 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Dain Bramaged Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 5,975
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I have the Stuans and a set of THESE
I prefer the $10 set, they are basically like pulling the valve core without the hassle and chance of cross threading. I wait a half a minute between starting each tire then just make a circuit around the truck checking them. A bonus of this is I tend to spend more time checking stuff like TRE's, steering arm nuts, and u-bolts.
I have two problems with the Stuans;
1- I air down to different pressures for different terrian and conditions basically every trip.
2- They don't work worth squat in extreme hot or cold weather. I wound up airing up before I could even start one snow run.
I just thought of a third reason I don't like Stuans. I have three trucks, for half the price of one set of Stuans I can get a set of the cheap ones for each truck.
__________________
Dan Johnson
What the large print giveth, the fine print taketh away.
Battle Born Cruisers
1975 FJ40, A couple of thingamajigs and a deally bob, fully integrated whatzits, dash board Hula girl (pending spousal approval.)
1998 pair of Pink Panties, now with a doohicky in the front.
1984 FJ60, Detroits F&R and a gawd awful spring lift.
Rust never sleeps.
.- -.. --... -. .--
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10-16-09, 11:13 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 206
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A cheap alternative, which is entirely manual, is the QuickAIR deflator from Sun Performance Products. Screw them on and they start deflating, you can put a tire gauge on them until the desired pressure is reached, and then unscrew them. Simple, reliable, and only $12.
__________________
Carter D.
97 FZJ80, 128,000 miles, 285 Revos, OME 861/862, HIR, tire carrier mod, driver seat extension, aux fan, Air Lift bags, Scion T1808
Chandler, AZ
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10-17-09, 09:43 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: where men are men and metrosexuals better be making me a CapMo.
Posts: 2,700
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I have both the Staun's and the ARB unit. I prefer removing the valve core and checking the pressure with a low pressure gauge. Way faster than either of the other units, but you have to stay on it. Takes about a minute per tire to go from 35 to 10 psi.
__________________
Chad
1976 FJ40: TBI350/SM465/SOA/SR/37" MTRs/ARBs/30-Longs/Metal Tech/SROR/Oeyes
1985 Toy Hilux: 6" lift/4.3L/R150F/Marlin's DUC/ARBs/30-Longs/5.29s/37" KM2s/Oeyes
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD bullydogged, airlift
My views on Animal Rights: Animals have the right to be tasty.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilC64
Try the finger cots. They'll give you a bit more room and won't chip your sisters teeth.
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10-17-09, 01:13 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 7,985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REKCUT
Most of the places I have wheeled involve a short drive down some kind of trail before we encounter an obsticle. Very rarely do we pull in at a spot where you have to start spotting from the trail head on. This is where they are handy as you can screw them on and jump in line on your way to the first stopping spot.( as in the first place a truck has to slow down to negotiate a difficult spot and the rest all check up like 5 oclock traffic) I never ment this to suggest that you actually wheel with them in place.
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Agree, I don't think they intended to wheel with them on. It was more like, BSing on the radio, get to the first obstacle, more BSing, watching, spotting, etc, your turn, psss  . If you like them, just make sure they are off before the first obstacle, hold the case in your hand, whatever.
For me the pull the core method works better, is faster and my air down psi varies depending on trail conditions, etc. The valve core is a huge flow restriction removing them is the fastest way to get the air out short of cutting the tire.  Also it depends on tire size, when I ran small tires it wasn't much of a deal, with bigger tires I wanted something faster.
__________________
Kevin Patterson '96 LX450 '84 4x4 Mini '73 FJ40
Copper State Cruisers #007
"We have come to the conclusion that we can run our car over any road that a man can take a team of horses and a wagon, providing we can get traction." Dr. Horatio Nelson Jackson, 1903
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10-17-09, 08:56 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Dog is my co-pilot.
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Seattle, USA
Posts: 2,717
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Hi All:
I have used one of those QuickAir devices for years. It is simple and does the job.
That said, I have a set of the Staun deflators that I have never been able to get to work worth a darn!
I got one of the ARB deflators last spring and have been happy with how it performs. Once the valve is fully removed from the tire stem it deflates very quickly!
Regards,
Alan
Quote:
Originally Posted by cartercd
A cheap alternative, which is entirely manual, is the QuickAIR deflator from Sun Performance Products. Screw them on and they start deflating, you can put a tire gauge on them until the desired pressure is reached, and then unscrew them. Simple, reliable, and only $12.
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__________________
www.seattlecruiserheads.com
"Cruiserdrew" wrote:
" The very worst thing you can to to a cruiser is half thought out mods that are underfunded and never quite get finished. Then you end up with hacked junk that doesn't work, and some future owner will curse you and all of your children."
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10-18-09, 12:30 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 32
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- 4 Husky Compressor drain cocks (Home Depot) - $13
PN:
HUSKY
1/4 In. Drain Cock
Model HDA71000AV
Store SKU # 826047
Internet # 169706
Catalog # 100095680
Drill a 7/16" hole, and Tap with a ¼” NPT tap.
Now you have a thumb screw drain cock to air down while monitoring tire pressure on the valve stem. Works fast, works sweet, and does not break the bank.
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10-18-09, 12:33 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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You want to do what...?
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: PRK
Posts: 11,771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranky steve
- 4 Husky Compressor drain cocks (Home Depot) - $13
PN:
HUSKY
1/4 In. Drain Cock
Model HDA71000AV
Store SKU # 826047
Internet # 169706
Catalog # 100095680
Drill a 7/16" hole, and Tap with a ¼” NPT tap.
Now you have a thumb screw drain cock to air down while monitoring tire pressure on the valve stem. Works fast, works sweet, and does not break the bank.
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nice!
rebalance, I assume?
__________________
 : '97: 90K, 3xlock, 285 MT/Rs on steelies, Hanna sliders, 851+1.5"/863/N73/N74E/SD24, ARB bull with M12, Kaymar with duals, Kaymar rack, Slee TC skid, 2m/440, more stuff, loose nut behind the wheel!). Custom HD roo bar for sale!
 : '03: 115K
DDs: Accord, Prius
 : souped-up DR650
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10-18-09, 12:43 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e9999
nice!
rebalance, I assume?
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Depends. I did it before I balanced. They don't weigh much. I'd run it and see how it felt
I balanced after i added the Inchworm double beadlock screws. poured the exact weight in bb's in the drain cock hole the balancer called for, Worked like a charm.
For less than $200 i had a set of 4 15x10 double beadlocks with a trick air down system.
Hardware stores are full of cheep tricks
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10-18-09, 08:57 AM
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#21 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Reno
Posts: 5,960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josie'sLandCruiser
Hi All:
I have used one of those QuickAir devices for years. It is simple and does the job.
That said, I have a set of the Staun deflators that I have never been able to get to work worth a darn!  ...Alan
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Ditto! The QuickAir's just work. I tend to vary the PSI when off-road depending upon terrain, conditions and whether I'm towing or not so the Staun's are more trouble than they're worth to me. Matter of fact I need to list them over on the Parts for Sale forum  .
__________________
Modded '99 for overlanding/exploring: 35's, 4.88's, AO drawers, Slee rr, TJM fr, ARB fr locker, ear candy, Waeco CF-50, PowerGate with 2nd battery with custom home brew battery tray, home brew sliders & Slee belly and skid plates, 9.5XP/Masterpull, Solstice LEDs, OEM 864's, Foxes x 4, 12mm BL, Carl's UCAs, LT285/75R18 GY MT/R Kevlar, KK in tow... HAMified
ROTM: http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...pressomon.html
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10-18-09, 08:46 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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Dain Bramaged Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 5,975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranky steve
- 4 Husky Compressor drain cocks (Home Depot) - $13
PN:
HUSKY
1/4 In. Drain Cock
Model HDA71000AV
Store SKU # 826047
Internet # 169706
Catalog # 100095680
Drill a 7/16" hole, and Tap with a ¼” NPT tap.
Now you have a thumb screw drain cock to air down while monitoring tire pressure on the valve stem. Works fast, works sweet, and does not break the bank.
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I like the idea. It wouldn't work so well with internal bead locks though.
__________________
Dan Johnson
What the large print giveth, the fine print taketh away.
Battle Born Cruisers
1975 FJ40, A couple of thingamajigs and a deally bob, fully integrated whatzits, dash board Hula girl (pending spousal approval.)
1998 pair of Pink Panties, now with a doohicky in the front.
1984 FJ60, Detroits F&R and a gawd awful spring lift.
Rust never sleeps.
.- -.. --... -. .--
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11-04-09, 08:44 AM
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#23 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 411
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I have a hose that splits to all 4 tires with locking chucks. I watch one gauge and I can be sure that all tires are equalized. At the end of the trip I plug the hose into my OBA tank via quick connect and air them all up to street pressure. Too easy.
__________________
'85 4Runner Daily Driver, 32" Mud Brutes, 4.88's, Locked F/R, 5" (or so) lift, swaybar disco, OBA, 1" MC, K&N, Accel Coil, Always loud, Always dirty.
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11-04-09, 02:42 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Green River, WY
Posts: 267
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Its cute how everyone thinks the way they air down is so far superior to the way the other losers let air out of their tires.
I use stauns. They were expensive, but I'm happy with them.
__________________
-Wyatt
www.expeditionutah.com
76 FJ55 - SOA/Rhinoed/Rear Aussie/FJ60 PS/Hysteer/H42/3-Speed Case/36" SS TSL
97 LX450 - OME 2.5/3x Locked/ARB/Sliders/Roof Rack/Rear bumper/Nat Luna 2x Optima/Warn E-12.0/LT MAF/33" SS TRXUS
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11-04-09, 02:55 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Ramblin Wreck
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Georgia Tech
Posts: 5,804
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I just carry a $5 valve core removal tool in each truck, and a few extra valve stems and cores.
Easy, quick, cheap.
__________________
Bailey Quintrell
'74 FJ40--37 Irocks-32 Bolt 'Locks-SM420-ARB-XD9000i-FJ60 PS-MetalTech Cage
'93 FZJ80-DD-P.T. 4wd-locked-5" lifted-snorkel-bullbar-315 AT's
'53 Willys Wagon
ΣΧ
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11-04-09, 04:46 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Dain Bramaged Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 5,975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solidfrontaxle
Its cute how everyone thinks the way they air down is so far superior to the way the other losers let air out of their tires.
I use stauns. They were expensive, but I'm happy with them.
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Funny, when someone ask for opinions people give theirs.
__________________
Dan Johnson
What the large print giveth, the fine print taketh away.
Battle Born Cruisers
1975 FJ40, A couple of thingamajigs and a deally bob, fully integrated whatzits, dash board Hula girl (pending spousal approval.)
1998 pair of Pink Panties, now with a doohicky in the front.
1984 FJ60, Detroits F&R and a gawd awful spring lift.
Rust never sleeps.
.- -.. --... -. .--
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11-07-09, 12:59 AM
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#27 (permalink)
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Local Diesel Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Ft. Worthless, TEXAS!
Posts: 3,155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tools R Us
IMHO a screwdriver type core remover and a pencil type tire gauge are the quickest, easiest way to get the job done. I carry them full time in the console. About half of our group uses this method, we air down, then stand around waiting for the rest to get done putzin with their toys. 
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Thats what i do as well, seems to be the cheapest way to get it done
Quote:
Originally Posted by e9999
and carry either lots of spare cores or a big magnifying glass also, right? 
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naw, i have a couple of extra valve stems that are complete with cores so if i loose a core i can rob one from there.
but i have yet to loose one that i didnt find before my tire went flat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cranky steve
- 4 Husky Compressor drain cocks (Home Depot) - $13
PN:
HUSKY
1/4 In. Drain Cock
Model HDA71000AV
Store SKU # 826047
Internet # 169706
Catalog # 100095680
Drill a 7/16" hole, and Tap with a ¼” NPT tap.
Now you have a thumb screw drain cock to air down while monitoring tire pressure on the valve stem. Works fast, works sweet, and does not break the bank.
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kinda a cool idea
__________________
[O] =TOYOTA=[O] = Mo Betta!
**84 FJ60 "Fiona", OME springs, anti inversion lift shackles, 33's, Front aussie, Rear Detroit, 4.56's, and exhaust..... For Now.... ROTW, 2F-E Swap**
**82 BJ42 SR and some 33x10.50-15's**
91 Honda Civic Hatch "Fry" with a JDM B20B CR-V Engine, with some bolt ons... Oh and it might have some nitrous there somewhere as well... 
01 Dodge 2500 "Clifford" 5spd 4 door 4x4 Cummins Turbo Diesel with enough go fast goodies to be stupid fast.
  Need A Cruiser Mechanic? Zismine4life@yahoo.com <----(Me/Trent)  
I of course guarantee all of my work to be a professional installation / service.
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