[Awl_TEQ]

Soooo - following the excellent lead of flintknapper here - http://forum.ih8mud.com/camping-gear...-part-1-a.html

And this rebuild here - Warn 8274 rebuild - sorry I don't know the posters name - please post up so he gets proper credit

I looked online on a local classified site and found a guy selling two 8000# warn winches for $100.00. So I called him and asked what model (knowing the 8274 was a 8k) and he didn't know - the name plates were WARN off . I figured what the hell, he was only a couple of KM away, I'll go check it out

So I get there and he shows me two 8274's!!

He says his "buddy" borrowed his blazer 10 years ago and wrapped the cable around the drive motor and pulled! - busted the housing. so his buddy bought him a replacement with a bad motor but he never got around to rebuilding either unit.

So I offered him $80.00 for both. He says OK and I load up and skidaddle quick like before he wises up!

As the links above have covered things quite well this post will overlap a bit but as we all know everyone sees things from different angles and more pictures are always good for reference.

I am going to do this in in several steps
- Tear down
- Clean up/ paint parts
- Identify and order parts
- Re-assembly

If at all possible I will try to save and refurbish both units though I'm sure I can get one.

In prepping for this and the impending resto-mod of my FJ45 I bought myself a cheap sandblasting cabinet and made up a shallow wash tray at work for cleaning the parts. I plan on getting a parts washer but need to let the budget replenish some first.

This is what I started with.
Pic one is the two 8274 winches - one in two pieces
Pic two is some of my toys
Pic three is the future home of the winch - my truck on roller skates

[Awl_TEQ]

Starting on the unit with the busted case


#1 Removing the 150' of cable is NOT fun - the damn thing just wants to curl up in all the wrong places - trying to keep it neat is difficult.

#2 + #3 Both the upper and lower cases are cracked and busted.

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Removing the solenoid pack

#2 Removing the free spool actuator - this unit is the type with a keyed instead of splined armature

#3 Removing the motor case from the armature - two long screws and it pulls off

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 I removed the motor shaft bearing and the upper case gears because I am going to get a friend of mine to try and weld up this case - it's a long shot but it might work.

#2 Moving on to the lower case - I removed the drum by lifting the locking plate and simply pulling the drum out.

#3 Then removed the bushing, seal and thrust washer from the drum.

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 After removing the snap ring and a bit of tapping lightly with a small hammer I managed to get the outer plate off. You must be careful not to damage the plate itself though it is likely stronger than it appears. Also this is where the 21 ball bearings will fall out and seek the most difficult place from which to be retrieved. You can see also the ratcheting ring and the brake friction material ring.

#2 The 21 balls

#3 This thick washer was a bit reluctant to separate from the shaft.

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Once the washer came off I just lifted the spring and inner brake plate off.

#2 As I mentioned above I am going to be welding (or more accurately my friend will) on this case so everything must come out. I followed flintknapper's thread directions and punched out the brake shaft, bushing and seal. Also I tapped out the needle bearing that supports the other end of the shaft and removed the main gear.

#3 The empty cases - Juuuust a little busted I'll take them to a former co-worker who specializes in repairing aluminum cases and such. If anyone can fix it he can.

[Awl_TEQ]

Here is the busted case unit completely disassembled and ready for cleaning.


Other than the cases this unit just need seals, bushings and fresh lube.

[Awl_TEQ]

OK - Unit #2 - unknown condition.

pic #1 - The first sign of trouble - notice the brake ratcheting plate and friction discs are loose and hanging. All the ball bearings are gone as well as one of the friction discs.

#2 This unit has a ground line bolted to the underside of the motor casing that the other did not. Was the other unit missing it or just a different design??

#3 With the top case removed I see an immediate issue - there are two teeth missing from the shaft and one of them is rusted into the main gear.

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 What is wrong with this picture



#2 There is a gear missing It is a different design than the first unit.



#3 Here you see the two shafts. The upper one is from the first unit with the busted case - the lower is from this unit. The right end is missing two teeth (can't see that here. Also the shaft is a different design. The collar just to the right of the teeth on the upper shaft is part of the shaft - not removable.
On the lower shaft there is clearly two sets of teeth - what goes here?

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Here is the "oil" from the case. See all of the chunks??


#2 In the upper right I have pulled out the chunks and the pieces form the missing gear and two teeth.

#3 Here are the two shafts and the broken gear.

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 One more of the shafts

#2 Another difference between the two units. Here I've got the first unit's drum on top and the one with the busted gear on the bottom. It is hard to see but the top one has a larger diameter gear. Now I feel I should explain - they both have the same number of teeth but the upper one's teeth are taller and the bottom are flatter. The bottom does not seem worn - just manufactured with shorter teeth.

#3 Perhaps the explanation here - I believe the older 8274's had the keyway style of free-spool/ drive gear and the newer ones a splined style. On the right we have the unit with the busted case (keyway/ old school) and on the left the unit with the busted gear (splined/ more recent style).

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Talk bout a hottie


#2 When it starts smoking its time to take a break!


#3 This smells like a barrel full of burnt garbage on the farm.

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Another difference between old and new - this is the busted case/older style unit remote plug - four pin plug.

#2 This is the busted gear/ newer style?? - three pin plug for the remote

[Awl_TEQ]

Here are a couple of shots of removing the gears in the upper case. Now Warn "crimps" the housing by punching the aluminum around the shaft so that it retains the shaft - I tried two methods to remove the shaft. On the first one I took a small chisel and tried to "spread" or counteract their "crimp" then drove it out with hammer and punch. On the second unit I just drove it out. Noticed no difference in the outcome. These gears ride on two very small needle bearings. I really didn't have to remove them but I was trying to be thorough. If your gears are damaged don't bother removing them as Warn sells the upper case and gears (minus the motor and clutch) as a set. So if your buying new gears you'll get the upper case as a unit.

[Awl_TEQ]

Here is the pile of parts for the second unit

[Awl_TEQ]

Just some shots of how the spring is installed on the brake pawl

[Awl_TEQ]

So its 2:00am and I'm tired. Tomorrow I will wash and Beadblast the appropriate parts and ID all parts and part numbers that require replacement. And more pics.

[photogod]

I don't have one of these winches nor will I ever but it sure is educational to see how they put these things together. I'm sure there is info here for everyone who has a Warn winch. Good write up.

[Awl_TEQ]

Thanks Photogod

Spent the day cleaning and blasting parts. I'm using #7 glass bead that we removed from the blast cabinet at work cause it was contaminated. By that I mean we only blast stainless and aluminum in that cabinet an some schmuk from our sister company was caught shooting mild steel. When you blast metal tiny particles of that metal are blasted off and into the media in the cabinet. So if you blast mild steel and then stainless you will impregnate the loose mild steel into the stainless - et voila - rust on stainless. Our customers would not like that after what we charge them for stainless pieces.

Because I have no parts washer at home I made up a tray at work out of some scrap and had one of the welders seal the corners. Below are a couple of pictures of my fancy parts washer.

#1 is before any washing started. I'm just using a half gallon of varsol and a stiff brush. I opened the garage door as well as the man door on the opposite wall for some fresh air and used heavy gloves. Varsol ain't exactly good for your skin. I wish I had an enclosed heated ultrasonic cabinet like D'animal does.

#2 + #3 Here are some de-greased parts

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Here is the busted case. After de-greasing the damage is a lot easier to see. Someone has already tried to weld the pieces together - though not very well. Aluminum is trickier than steel but there just isn't any penetration and the welds did not hold. If I had to pay a welder to fix this to "gooder than new" it would be cheaper to just buy another case. Luckily, I don't I have a Miller 180 mig but I am not a welder. I have a couple of dozen welders at work that owe me favors.

#2 Here is the case after glass bead blasting. Oooo shiny, but ugly with those welds. I'll get it fixed properly and post up side by side.

#3 The brake pieces, lock plate and clutch

[Awl_TEQ]

If your clutch is like most it is difficult to engage and disengage. This picture is of the components involved with the clutch. It is really quite simple and you can see how a cleaning and bit of lube would solve any sticky clutch problems.

[Awl_TEQ]

I haven't blasted the second one yet - it takes a fair bit of air and I let my air compressor cool down so it takes a while.

So the parts I will need to refurbish these two winches are:

8680 - service kit- lower housing x2 (this is the drum bushings and seals)
8409 - brake service kit x2 (this will give me two sets of balls and the friction material, snap ring and keys)
7612 - lip seal x2 (pinion seal)
7611 - bushing x2 (pinion bushing)
7732 - pinion and cam x1 (this is the shaft that was busted and the cam part of it)
7613 - o-ring seal pinion x2 (seal for above)
8356 - pinion bearing x2 (end bearing for above)
8316 - armature bearing x2
7582 - end cap x1 (plastic end cap for the drum - one of mine was cracked)

I plan to replace all screws and bolts with stainless hardware bought from one of my work suppliers. If I can get the bearings and seals cheaper from a bearing supplier than from Warn I will - I have to get the tiny needle bearings in the upper housing there anyway (torrington y-68 x4).

I plan to perform the modifications that others (read Flintknapper) have done. The case drain and fill plugs, zerk fittings in the drum end. I'm not going to bother with the drill, tap, bolt mod for the brake assembly.

Now, you may have noticed that I did not list a motor to replace the melted one. This is because I am changing from 12V to 24V to suit my 2F to 3B conversion planned for my truck. The 3B in Canada came in 24V and I plan to convert my truck when I do my drive train swap. So I will need two 8803 motors (c/w motor pinion gear) and two 13343 24V solenoid packs. I like the idea of the 24V winches because they will run at half the amperage and therefore half the heat of the 12V. I plan to mount one winch in the obvious place and build a receiver mount for the other one to make it removable for the back of the truck. I know they are heavy but a winch in the back is handy and I will be running synthetic rope so that will help. So with 24V I'll have two batteries for the truck and winch for sure and I may have a couple more for various planned mods.

As for the finish on the parts I am thinking of doing Zinc Dichromate on the steel parts and powder coating the aluminum to match the new M8274-50 units that Warn makes.

[Awl_TEQ]

Here are a couple of 8274 exploded parts diagrams and parts lists. You probably won't be able to red them. Just search Warn M8274 parts online. It helps to know your serial number to get the right diagrams.

[NLXTACY]

Damn, this makes me want to get an 8274 JUST so I can have fun rebuilding it!!!!

[Awl_TEQ]

Yeah - it is my kind of fun. But I am just killing time until I can start on my 45 rebuild and engine swap.

I had some family obligations today so didn't do much work on the winches.

#1 - Still blasting the second unit.

#2 - The twin lines of parts are what is being replaced.

#3 - It doesn't matter how much room you have - it's never enough

[1shot1kill]

Nice Job!

[Awl_TEQ]

Thanks 1shot

Not much time available to get anything done during the week. Did some more blasting but with the kids bedrooms above the garage I can't run the compressor after 7:30-8:00. Tomorrow I get off work at 11:00am so I'm going to pick up some stainless bolts and order all of the parts I need from the Warn distributer. I cut down my list a bit to keep the cost down. I'm going to re-use the bronze bushings because they look fine. All seals, o-rings and bearings will be purchased at a local bearing distributer cause they have better prices. For example the large needle bearing 8356 is $23 at Warn and $8 at Transmission Supply Ltd. I had to go to TSL anyway because Warn doesn't sell the small needle bearing in the upper housing gear set (unless you buy the entire upper case). The original is a Torrington Y-68 open needle bearing and TSL has the same thing from a different manufacturer for $4 each (I need four for two winches).

Also I have enough good parts to rebuild one complete brake assembly so I am only buying one 8409 brake service kit. And of course I have to buy the Pinion shaft and cam due to breakage.

Now the kicker. I had intended to rebuild my FJ45 with a turbo 3B and 5 spd in a 24V charging system - so I priced a 24V winch motor. I knew it would be expensive and was prepared but still amazed at the cost. $568.48 - (for one)

So this started me thinking about the whole 24V vs 12V issue. IMO 24V is better on a strictly mechanical basis both for the winch and starter. I also think it is kinda cool from a tech standpoint. But, it is very much more expensive. The BJ42's came to Canada with the 3B/5spd/24V setup but the BJ60 was 12V. Better winter starting would be a pro and $$$$ would be a con. So I called Ryan at Hilltopcruisers for some input. He is the source of my 45 and is holding (very patiently) a BJ42 ex mine truck with my 3B and H55f (the tub is completely rusted and useless). He has both 24V and 12V components but he says the 24V starters and alternators are getting increasingly difficult to find and possibly discontinued. I would also have to change out my wiper/blower motors and all bulbs etc. etc.

SOOO I changed my mind - - - my truck will be 12V. In retrospect I don't know what I was thinking with the 24V thing.

So I will order one 12 motor as well.

The busted housing as had all of the birdshit welding ground off and will be welded up during spare and stolen time at work next week. I'll try and get tech info (what type of rod etc.) and some pics of progress. And I still have blasting to fill my time at home (yard work, kids and wife as well). I want to disassemble the solenoid packs, blast the mounting brackets and test the solenoids too.

I'll post some on Saturday.

[alkarich]

Nice job with the winch, sweet deal too!

[romegadave]

I don't have a winch but when I do I will be back to this thread when needed. Thanks for the thorough job/sharing-dave

[Awl_TEQ]

{romegadave I don't have a winch but when I do I will be back to this thread when needed. Thanks for the thorough job/sharing-dave}

I like your phrase "job sharing" because I ain't no trained expert - just a handy jack of all trades - master of none type guy. Hopefully everyone keeps in mind this is my way of doing things - YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY

Also - don't forget the links in the first post - thats where I got my inspiration.

Pic #1 - a before shot of the solenoid pack. I am going to make a couple of covers at work to replace the cracked ones - I'll take pics too, you guys ever seen what a CNC punch and brake press can do?

#2 - an after shot of the solenoid pack. The tailgate of my 45 is now the only clear workspace left and it works great - just the right height. I am going to clean the terminals and test each of the eight solenoids, replace any failing ones from Auto Value/NAPA/Bumper to Bumper/Canadian Tire, replace one of the cables from the unit not shown in these shots, replace the solenoid capscrews with stainless, blast and plate the mounting bracket with zinc dichromate. If I have some thicker copper at work I will make bigger bus/jumper bars but for now I will blast the originals.