[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by Pauciflora

G'day Awl TEQ,

The black knobs look as though they are made from bakelite. If they are most commonly available metal polishing pastes such as Brasso will probably bring them up pretty well.

Just a thought.

Cheers,

Ben

P.S. I'm really enjoying this thread. You are doing a great job.

A quick application of “Plasti-Coat” (spray can) will make it look new again. It seems to wear very well too.

[Awl_TEQ]

Thank you for the tip Flint. No rush on the knob though - it can easily be the last component.

I finally got around to assembling one of the winches today so here we go with photos.

#1 here is the M8680 replacement lower housing bushings and seal.

#2 0.190 depth setting as per Flintknapper's thread (which I used directly as my re-assembly bible for the following - it's been to long since tear down and the details get fuzzy although my pics help as well).

#3 the bushing protrudes just slightly and the needle bearing for the brake shaft is installed (with an arbor press at work - not a hammer).

[Awl_TEQ]

And now for the "Flintknapper method" of lubricating the free end of the drum .

Step 1
Basically drill and tap the stock cover retaining screw holes.

More in-depth tips:

-Use a 0.203 or 13/64 drill bit. (or to suit your required thread)
-Drill slowly and carefully - this is cast aluminum and very soft.
-Secure your work - your bit will "bite" and spin it.
-Do not drill through (Duh!). You will feel the bottom of the hole when you hit it.
-Tap with 1/4-28 or to suit your zerk fitting.
-Tapping cast aluminum can be a challenge, it may crumble rather than bite in - take your time. (I actually put the tap in my cordless drill and went very slowly on the trigger. That may sound reckless but it can work better than turning a tap handle and not keeping the tap perpendicular to the hole - this causes the tap to crumble the aluminum rather than cut threads.)
-Don't let the hole fill up with chips and bog down the tap - go half way and back out to dump the chips out.
-Drill the plastic cover even more carefully (I went to 17/64")
-Sit back and admire your work.
_

[Awl_TEQ]

Step 2
Basically drill in to the above tapped hole from the bushing making a path for the grease to get to the friction area.

More info

-I used a 3/32" bit.
-Seat the bushing fully in place.
-Mark the center of the bushing (width) directly adjacent to the just tapped holes.
-Drill the mark with the bushing in place to assure matching holes. If you drill through the center of the bushing width you should hit the very bottom of the tapped hole.
-Starting the bit in the plastic bushing is a little tough at the angle required by the lack of access but once started the angle will help hit the bottom of the tapped hole.
-Don't move the bushing between holes.
-Blow out all chips - you don't want them in the grease and on the bushing.

[Awl_TEQ]

Now for the drum.

#1 Here it is in all it's glory.

#2 The flat side of the plastic thrust washer goes against the drum. The seal is symmetrical and can go either way. Make sure there are no burrs on the gears to scratch the case bushing during install.

#3 A little lube always helps

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Here are the required components. The locking plate is in it's eventual location.

#2 This is the correct orientation of the main gear.

#3 I stood the drum on end and slid the case with gear onto the drum. The locking plate then went into place - bumps against the inside case wall.

[Awl_TEQ]

I call this the brake shaft because the cam is the source of the braking power and the brake mounts to the end of the shaft. I don't know what warn calls it (too lazy to look and don't care - it's my thread )

This is the new shaft from Warn BTW.

#1 New o-ring and lube.

#2 Cam gear in place.

#3 Brake shaft and spur gear installed. I greased the needle bearing liberally and then forgot to install the locking plate - had to pull it out again.

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Bronze bushing and seal time.

#2 The bushing went in easy. To start the seal I lifted the locking plate a bit and slid the shaft out a little to get some surface to roll the seal onto.

#3 Then drove the seal in. I couldn't find anything to use as a seal driver lying around so I used a punch and hammer and took my time tapping around trying to keep the seal as straight as possible. During that process I slid the shaft back and locked it in place.

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 The parts. New friction material, snap ring and ball bearings (21) - the rest is freshly plated.

#2 Start with this plate down first.

#3 Add one friction material ring.

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Note the direction of the teeth on this ring.

#2 MAGNETS! These are rare earth and very strong. They will pinch you HARD if your not careful. I was going to spread three evenly around the toothed ring but I couldn't get two of them apart. They hold the chrome plated balls pretty good - still have to be careful or chase them around the floor. Also the spring is in now.

#3 Moved the assembly to the winch. The winch is standing on its side on the drum's free end. The fat washer and keys are set in place (I cleaned up the keys) as well as the friction material.

[Awl_TEQ]

It's nice to be regular

#1 Vise grips are a wondrous thing.

#2 Snap ring installed.

#3 Brake pawl installed with a new stainless bolt and washer.

[Awl_TEQ]

A bit of RTV sealant and three stainless bolts et voila - one down, one to go.

Now I need to start on the electrical components.

[photogod]

My Dad and I used to restore Model "A" pickups and I remember the feeling when we would finish a small part of the vehicle, the tranny or the rear axle or finish bolting in the final component in the finished frame. We would sit back and pat each other on the back and smile to a job well done. Give your self a pat on the back for me as this has been a nice thread to watch and those units look really nice!

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by photogod

Give your self a pat on the back for me as this has been a nice thread to watch and those units look really nice!

Agreed!

Excellent work....and thorough documentation.

[Awl_TEQ]

More kind words, thank you.

[GussesCruzer]

Nicely done!

Count me in for a cover, if it happens. I'm local, so shipping isn't a problem. Has anyone figured out whether the old/new ones are interchangeable?

Where did you source parts from? I ordered up some parts from Modern, but I didn't think they stocked anything.

If I can get mine cut off (crude theft deterent by a PO), I'd like to do a functional refurbish. I have to be careful not to make anything one thing on the rig look that nice. The rest of it doesn't look that good!

Thanks,
Guy

[Awl_TEQ]

dibs on 5 covers

Modern motors stocks one each of various parts but can bring in most anything from Warn in a few days. They had the drum bushing kit and a couple other things but were out of motors. I got the motor, seals and friction material there. There are other distributers, I did a search online at Warn's website and found a half dozen in Calgary.

Rant warning!
Modern Motors is a Jeep enthusiasts dream . When I asked them about 24V parts for an 8274 for my FJ45 they said there was two things wrong with that - 24V, as in "why would you do that?" and Toyota. They'll sell you anything you want for a domestic balloon tired mud slinging V8 that breaks everytime you go to the mud hole - but I am more of a quality built skinny tire expedition/ trail riding type guy. The whole idea is to go somewhere without gettig stuck - not get covered in mud and get stuck on purpose. I really do h8mud. To each his own. Modern is also over priced for most things though average for Warn parts.
Rant over

I got the bearings, seals and chrome plated balls for the brake at Transmission Supply on 42nd ave. They also have the bronze bushings but they come in 2" lengths and you would have to cut them down on a lathe.
The powder was done at JIT powder coaters. I spend 10k a month there through work as a purchaser and so I got a break on price. Top Gun Coatings is also good for powder - they are more of a walkin small quantity type place than JIT. JIT is a high volume industrial/manufacturing type powder coater with an automated line.

The zinc dichromate (galvanizing) plating was done at Wespen Industries. They do several different types of plating, but not anodizing of aluminum. They have 20' long tanks and can do anything from nuts and bolts to a frame. Wespen also has a powder line they are rebuilding so you could do it all in one place when they are done. I am going to use them to galvanize my bumper and sliders and frame before powder coating. The process involves a dip in acid and gets into places that paint and powder don't, but water does. Powder by itself IMO is not good enough for the frame - it scratches and rusts only a little less than paint, but if you galvanize the frame first you would have to drag the full weight of the truck over a rock to get through the plating......but I digress....that's a different thread.

[dslcruzr]

I would also be interested in a cover

[Awl_TEQ]

That's 6 covers spoken for dslcruzer - and my brother is in Victoria, but his 71 40 is here.

A couple more and I'll PM everyone to find out if they are still interested.

Kevin

[lulo]

WOW!

excellent Thread MATE!!!

Perfect Job...

thanks

[cruiserjunkie]

It got sweeter every time I looked at it. Great idea for the zerks I'll have to redo mine now thanks

[Awl_TEQ]

I gotta get off my duff and find my battery charger so I can test the solenoids and do the electrical control refurbish. I lent it to my neighbor last winter - he says he returned it.......neither one of us can find it now....... I guess I could use some alligator clips off the battery and a multimeter........I'm just a bit lazy at the moment.......but I am building a hitch for my Rav4 - I'll do a thread when I get further along.

I bought new knobs from McMaster Carr for the freewheel shifter - I'll get a pic soon.

[kidatari]

Fantastic rebuild, thanks for posting it!

Hopefully I can track down a 8274 for my rig

[Awl_TEQ]

I never could find my battery charger so I hinted strongly and got a small one under the tree.


A quick test of each solenoid proved they all make a satisfying click and have continuity through the main terminals when energized.


After a light blast to clean the terminals I started the assembly.

[Awl_TEQ]

Thanks again to Flintknapper's thread I made all of the connections save for the remote control receptacle. Both of my remotes are of the older four prong plug type and Warn no longer sells them. I will stop by a local electrical shop I know and get two sets of male and female connectors to suit. Three wires are required for the control circuit. One hot drawn off of the left bus bar where the battery main line comes in and one on each of the green and black wires for forward and reverse.


More angles...

[Awl_TEQ]

Yet more angles...

[Awl_TEQ]

Mounted on the motor...



And I finally installed the new knob from McMaster Carr.

[Awl_TEQ]

Sorry...... I just like taking pictures

[Awl_TEQ]

I did power up the motor and run it in and out - had to use the 50Amp setting on the charger to get it to turn. Now all I need is a new plug for the remote...... and to assemble the other winch .

[Awl_TEQ]

There........that's two done .

Before....


And after...


I'm going to drop by work tomorrow to finish building a custom hitch for the's Rav4 (so I can haul 45 parts to the U-Blast yard ) I'll take some pictures and build a thread in the trailer section. While I am there I will make a couple of carry/ storage mounts for these winches. They are going to sit now for 30 months as I rebuild the truck they are to be mounted on (also another thread - starting in a couple of weeks). It shouldn't take 30 months - - - but lets be realistic Life gets in the way of my hobbies .